scholarly journals CRITICAL TRAVEL DISTANCE OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 24
Author(s):  
Winfried Siefert

A new criterion for shallow water wave analysis is evaluated from prototype data off the German coast on the reef and wadden sea areas south of the outer Elbe river. Correlations of mean wave heights H with mean wave peri- - H ods T, and wave height distribution factors C. /•, = —l/3 t-^ respectively show that the mean periods and both complete height and period distributions of waves in shallow water can be expressed as functions of mean height and topography. So the mean wave height H proves to be the characteristic parameter for the description of the complete shallow water wave climate. The upper envelop of the values H = f (meteorology, topography) is defined as the case of fully developed sea, which leads to the function of the highest mean wave heights Hmax.

Author(s):  
Edward F. Thompson ◽  
C. Linwood Vincent

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 44
Author(s):  
Genowefa Bendykowska ◽  
Gosta Werner

Investigations are presented, on some effects of nonlinearity in the motion of shallow water wave spectra. The waves were generated, mechanically in a laboratory wave flume with fixed bottom. Essential differences with the linear dispersion relation are found, showing vanishing dispersivity of higher frequency spectral components in strongly nonlinear spectra. The mean frequency increases with decreasing water depth. The relation of the peak frequency to the mean frequency varied in the experiments from 0.9 to 0.5, for deep to shallow water wave spectra respectively.


2019 ◽  
Vol 874 ◽  
pp. 1169-1196 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pierre Augier ◽  
Ashwin Vishnu Mohanan ◽  
Erik Lindborg

The dynamics of irrotational shallow water wave turbulence forced at large scales and dissipated at small scales is investigated. First, we derive the shallow water analogue of the ‘four-fifths law’ of Kolmogorov turbulence for a third-order structure function involving velocity and displacement increments. Using this relation and assuming that the flow is dominated by shocks, we develop a simple model predicting that the shock amplitude scales as $(\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}d)^{1/3}$, where $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ is the mean dissipation rate and $d$ the mean distance between the shocks, and that the $p$th-order displacement and velocity structure functions scale as $(\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}d)^{p/3}r/d$, where $r$ is the separation. Then we carry out a series of forced simulations with resolutions up to $7680^{2}$, varying the Froude number, $F_{f}=(\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}L_{f})^{1/3}/c$, where $L_{f}$ is the forcing length scale and $c$ is the wave speed. In all simulations a stationary state is reached in which there is a constant spectral energy flux and equipartition between kinetic and potential energy in the constant flux range. The third-order structure function relation is satisfied with a high degree of accuracy. Mean energy is found to scale approximately as $E\sim \sqrt{\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}L_{f}c}$, and is also dependent on resolution, indicating that shallow water wave turbulence does not fit into the paradigm of a Richardson–Kolmogorov cascade. In all simulations shocks develop, displayed as long thin bands of negative divergence in flow visualisations. The mean distance between the shocks is found to scale as $d\sim F_{f}^{1/2}L_{f}$. Structure functions of second and higher order are found to scale in good agreement with the model. We conclude that in the weak limit, $F_{f}\rightarrow 0$, shocks will become denser and weaker and finally disappear for a finite Reynolds number. On the other hand, for a given $F_{f}$, no matter how small, shocks will prevail if the Reynolds number is sufficiently large.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 15 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sofia Caires ◽  
Marcel R.A. Van Gent

Several alternatives to the Rayleigh distribution have been proposed for describing individual wave heights in regions where depth-induced wave breaking occurs. The most widely used of these is the so-called Battjes and Groenendijk distribution. This distribution has been derived and validated in a context of a shallow water foreshore waves propagating over a gently sloping shallow region towards the shore. Its validity for waves propagating in regions with shallow flat bottoms is investigated here. It is concluded that the distribution on average underestimates (outside its range of validity) high wave height measurements in shallow flat bottoms by as much as 15%.


1970 ◽  
Vol 1 (12) ◽  
pp. 10 ◽  
Author(s):  
Winfried Siefert

Examination of the significant heights of zero-crossing waves in the Elbe Estuary has yielded two noteworthy results: 1 In the deeper water of the estuary, the value of the quotient relating the significant and the mean wave heights is larger than on the bordering tidal flat. 2. The value of this function is dependent on the height of the waves; on the tidal flat this dependency is considerably more sensitive than in deeper water. With increasing wave height the value of significant wave height divided by mean height becomes smaller The propagation direction of waves moving onto the tidal flat is contingent upon the position of intertidal channels Such channels sharply reduce the possible propagation directions The waves nearly always move up-channel regardless of the wind direction It is possible to derive special wave period and wave height distributions representing the conditions m very shallow water.


1983 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.G. Bea ◽  
N.W. Lai ◽  
A.W. Niedoroda ◽  
G.H. Moore

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 16
Author(s):  
Winfried Siefert

Prototype data from 24 wave stations on and around the tidal flats south of the Elbe estuary enable us to elaborate special shallow water wave characteristics, concerning the variations and correlations of heights, periods, lengths and velocities. This paper deals with some interesting aspects from the engineer's point of view. It turns out that the steepness factor — or H L —^o- of breaking waves is much smaller than of nong- T^ breaking waves and that steepness is no suitable parameter to describe a natural wave spectrum in shallow waters. On the tidal flats the maximum wave heights only depend on the depth of water, not on the steepness. Moreover the possible wave height proves to become much higher than theoretically predicted, especially in depths of water less than 2 m.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 20
Author(s):  
S.J. Buchan ◽  
R.K. Steedman ◽  
S.A. Stroud ◽  
D.G. Provis

Shallow water wave theory shows that estimates of directional wave climate may be obtained from the measurement of near-bottom pressure and horizontal velocity components. Recent developments in low powered sensors and high density data loggers, incorporated into a bottom-mounted directional wave recorder, make the collection of directional shallow water wave data possible on a routine basis. The instrument is compact, robust, reliable and easily manageable from small craft, providing deployment capacities of up to four months. Analysis methods have been developed which provide for conversion of the recorded data to useful, convenient information.


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document