scholarly journals The role of constant vorticity on weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves

Wave Motion ◽  
2020 ◽  
pp. 102702
Author(s):  
M.A. Manna ◽  
S. Noubissie ◽  
J. Touboul ◽  
B. Simon ◽  
R.A. Kraenkel
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
Constant Vorticity ◽  
Nonlinear Surface

scholarly journals Effects of an abrupt depth change on weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves: deterministic and stochastic analysis

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yan Li ◽  
Samuel Draycott ◽  
Yaokun Zheng ◽  
Thomas A.A. Adcock ◽  
Zhiliang Lin ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Wave Statistics ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
Seabed Topography ◽  
Nonlinear Surface

<p>This work focuses on two different aspects of the effect of an abrupt depth transition on weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves: deterministic and stochastic. It is known that the kurtosis of waves can reach a maximum near the top of such abrupt depth transitions. The analysis is based on three different approaches: (1) a novel theoretical framework that allows for narrow-banded surface waves experiencing a step-type seabed, correct to the second order in wave steepness; (2) experimental observations; and (3) a numerical model based on a fully nonlinear potential flow solver. To reveal the fundamental physics, the evolution of a wave envelope that experiences an abrupt depth transition is examined in detail; (a) we show the release of free waves at second order in wave steepness both for the super-harmonic and sub-harmonic or ‘mean’ terms; (b) a local wave height peak that occurs near the top of a depth transition – whose exact position depends on several nondimensional parameters – is revealed; (c) furthermore, we examine which parameters affect this peak. The novel physics has implications for wave statistics for long-crested irregular waves experiencing an abrupt depth transition. We show the connection of the second-order physics at work in the deterministic and stochastic cases: the peak of wave kurtosis and skewness occurs in the neighborhood of the deterministic wave peak in (b) and for the same parameters set composed of a seabed topography, water depths, primary wave frequency and steepness, and bandwidth.</p>

scholarly journals On the strength of the weakly nonlinear theory for surface gravity waves

2016 ◽  
Vol 810 ◽  
pp. 1-4 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael Stiassnie
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Theory ◽  
Mathematical Formulation ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear Theory ◽  
Wave Basin

Recently, Bonnefoy et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 805, 2016, R3) studied the resonant interaction of oblique surface gravity waves in a large $50~\text{m}\times 30~\text{m}\times 5~\text{m}$ wave basin. Their experimental results are in excellent quantitative agreement with predictions of the weakly nonlinear wave theory, and provide additional evidence to the strength of this widely used mathematical formulation. In this article, the reader is introduced to the many facets of the weakly nonlinear theory for surface gravity waves, and to its current and possible future applications, deterministic as well as stochastic.

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