An asymptotic theory for water waves on beaches of mild slope

1968 ◽  
Vol 73 (14) ◽  
pp. 4555-4560 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. C. Mei ◽  
G. A. Tlapa ◽  
P. S. Eagleson
2016 ◽  
Vol 23 (4) ◽  
pp. 455-474 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Yu. Dobrokhotov ◽  
V. V. Grushin ◽  
S. A. Sergeev ◽  
B. Tirozzi

1974 ◽  
Vol 66 (1) ◽  
pp. 97-106 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. N. Newman

Two-dimensional waves are incident upon a pair of vertical flat plates intersecting the free surface in a fluid of infinite depth. An asymptotic theory is developed for the resulting wave reflexion and transmission, assuming that the separation between the plates is small. The fluid motion between the plates is a uniform vertical oscillation, matched to the outer wave field by a local flow at the opening beneath the plates. It is shown that the reflexion and transmission coefficients undergo rapid changes, ranging from complete reflexion to complete transmission, in the vicinity of a critical wavenumber where the fluid column between the obstacles is resonant.


2007 ◽  
Vol 593 ◽  
pp. 209-234 ◽  
Author(s):  
LOUIS N. HOWARD ◽  
JIE YU

We study some effects of regular bottom corrugations on water waves in a long rectangular tank with vertical endwalls and open top. In particular, we consider motions which are normal modes of oscillation in such a tank. Attention is focused on the modes whose internodal spacing, in the absence of corrugations, would be near the wavelength of the corrugations. In these cases, the perturbation of the eigenfunctions (though not of their frequencies) can be significant, e.g. the amplitude of the eigenfunction can be greater by a factor of ten or more near one end of the tank than at the other end. This is due to a cooperative effect of the corrugations, called Bragg resonance. We first study these effects using an asymptotic theory, which assumes that the bottom corrugations are of small amplitude and that the motions are slowly varying everywhere. We then present an exact theory, utilizing continued fractions. This allows us to deal with the rapidly varying components of the flow. The exact theory confirms the essential correctness of the asymptotic results for the slowly varying aspects of the motions. The rapidly varying parts (evanescent waves) are, however, needed to satisfy accurately the true boundary conditions, hence of importance to the flow near the endwalls.


Author(s):  
Jie Yu ◽  
Louis N. Howard

A series of corrugations on the bottom of a layer of water of otherwise uniform depth can have a cooperative effect on incident water waves. The phenomenon is well-known, called Bragg reflection or Bragg resonance. These effects on the normal modes of oscillation in a rectangular tank with corrugated bottom are studied using an asymptotic theory, and by developing an exact theory. The exact theory confirms the essential correctness of the asymptotic results for the slowly varying aspects of the motions. The rapidly varying components are, however, important to the flow near the boundaries. Higher order Bragg resonance, i.e. when the spacing of corrugations is an integer (greater than 1) multiple of half the water wavelength, is examined and the solution regimes (resonance tongues) are constructed using the exact theory.


1975 ◽  
Vol 42 (4) ◽  
pp. 777-779 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. L.-F. Liu

Three-dimensional water waves are incident upon a pair of semi-infinite parallel vertical thin barriers. Assuming that the opening between the barriers is small compared with the incident wavelength, an asymptotic theory is developed for the resulting water motion. Between the barriers uniform progressive waves propagate into the channel. The transmission coefficient is found to be insensitive to the incident wave angle and the separation between the barriers.


2018 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 31-36
Author(s):  
Md Monirul Islam ◽  
Muztuba Ahbab ◽  
Md Robiul Islam ◽  
Md Humayun Kabir

For many solitary wave applications, various approximate models have been proposed. Certainly, the most famous solitary wave equations are the K-dV, BBM and Boussinesq equations. The K-dV equation was originally derived to describe shallow water waves in a rectangular channel. Surprisingly, the equation also models ion-acoustic waves and magneto-hydrodynamic waves in plasmas, waves in elastic rods, equatorial planetary waves, acoustic waves on a crystal lattice, and more. If we describe all of the above situation, we must be needed a solution function of their governing equations. The Tan-cot method is applied to obtain exact travelling wave solutions to the generalized Korteweg-de Vries (gK-dV) equation and generalized Benjamin-Bona- Mahony (BBM) equation which are important equations to evaluate wide variety of physical applications. In this paper we described the soliton behavior of gK-dV and BBM equations by analytical system especially using Tan-cot method and shown in graphically. GUB JOURNAL OF SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING, Vol 5(1), Dec 2018 P 31-36


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