Mean Flux in the Tree Surface Zone of Water Waves in a Closed Wave Flume

Author(s):  
Witold Cieślikiewicz ◽  
Ove T. Gudmestad
Keyword(s):  
Geophysics ◽  
1951 ◽  
Vol 16 (1) ◽  
pp. 63-80 ◽  
Author(s):  
Milton B. Dobrin

A non‐mathematical summary is presented of the published theories and observations on dispersion, i.e., variation of velocity with frequency, in surface waves from earthquakes and in waterborne waves from shallow‐water explosions. Two further instances are cited in which dispersion theory has been used in analyzing seismic data. In the seismic refraction survey of Bikini Atoll, information on the first 400 feet of sediments below the lagoon bottom could not be obtained from ground wave first arrival times because shot‐detector distances were too great. Dispersion in the water waves, however, gave data on speed variations in the bottom sediments which made possible inferences on the recent geological history of the atoll. Recent systematic observations on ground roll from explosions in shot holes have shown dispersion in the surface waves which is similar in many ways to that observed in Rayleigh waves from distant earthquakes. Classical wave theory attributes Rayleigh wave dispersion to the modification of the waves by a surface layer. In the case of earthquakes, this layer is the earth’s crust. In the case of waves from shot‐holes, it is the low‐speed weathered zone. A comparison of observed ground roll dispersion with theory shows qualitative agreement, but it brings out discrepancies attributable to the fact that neither the theory for liquids nor for conventional solids applies exactly to unconsolidated near‐surface rocks. Additional experimental and theoretical study of this type of surface wave dispersion may provide useful information on the properties of the surface zone and add to our knowledge of the mechanism by which ground roll is generated in seismic shooting.


2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 9 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kostas Belibassakis ◽  
Julien Touboul ◽  
Elodie Laffitte ◽  
Vincent Rey

Extended mild-slope models (MMSs) are examined for predicting the characteristics of normally incident waves propagating over sinusoidal bottom topography in the presence of opposing shearing currents. It is shown that MMSs are able to provide quite good predictions in the case of Bragg scattering of waves over rippled bathymetry without a current, but fail to provide good predictions concerning the resonant frequency in the additional presence of a current. In order to resolve the above mismatch, a two-equation mild-slope system (CMS2) is derived from a variational principle based on the representation of the wave potential expressed as a superposition of the forward and backward components. The latter system is compared against experimentally measured data collected in a wave flume and is shown to provide more accurate predictions concerning both the resonant frequency and the amplitude of the reflection coefficient. Future work will be devoted to the examination of the derived model for a more general wave system over realistic seabed topography.


2003 ◽  
Vol 125 (2) ◽  
pp. 94-102 ◽  
Author(s):  
Svein Helge Gjøsund

It has proven difficult to describe the kinematics in irregular waves satisfactorily, in particular for the surface zone in broad-banded waves. A Lagrangian approach offers distinct advantages in this respect, eliminating the need for extrapolation of solutions or “stretching” of coordinates. This paper presents a model of irregular waves based on superposition of linear Lagrangian wave components, using an iterative method to obtain the Eulerian solution. This approach yields theoretically consistent results everywhere in the waves, and comparisons with wave flume measurements show good agreement. Also, the linear Lagrangian model includes wave interactions that would be nonlinear in an Eulerian formulation.


Author(s):  
Hamid Alemi Ardakani ◽  
Mohammad Javad Ketabdari

Among the compliant platforms, TLP is a vertically moored structure with excess buoyancy, used for deep water oil exploration. In this structure tethers can be tensioned to such an extent that heave, roll and pitch motions of the platform induced by ocean waves are virtually eliminated. SeaStar is new generation of mini tension leg platforms which is similar to a spar and has favorable response features of a TLP. This paper illustrates the results of experimental work performed on a 1/100 scaled model of SeaStar TLP in a wave flume. The study refers to the induced tension in different tendons of the model and the motion response behaviour of the model on different degrees of freedom under several directional impinging random water waves. The results are presented in the frequency domain and the response amplitude operator for each motion of the platform has been calculated.


Author(s):  
Mohammad Javad Ketabdari ◽  
Hamid Alemi Ardakani ◽  
Mohammad Alemi Ardakani

Among the compliant platforms, TLP is a vertically moored structure with excess buoyancy, used for deep water oil exploration. In this structure tethers can be tensioned to such an extent that heave, roll and pitch motions of the platform induced by ocean waves are virtually eliminated. SeaStar is new generation of mini tension leg platforms which is similar to a spar and has favorable response features of a TLP. This paper illustrates the results of experimental work performed on a 1/100 scaled model of SeaStar TLP in a wave flume. The investigation refers to the induced tension in different tendons of the model and the motion response behaviour of the model on different degrees of freedom under several directional impinging regular water waves. The results are presented in the frequency domain and the response amplitude operator for each motion of the platform has been calculated.


Author(s):  
Xiao Liu ◽  
Yong Liu

Abstract In this article, a very simple system based on the enhanced dam-break flows was proposed and implemented to generate solitary wave with larger relative wave height (the ratio of wave height to water depth) in a laboratory flume. The experimental results showed that stable waves with the solitary wave profiles were successfully generated in the wave flume. The wave surface elevations were recorded by a series of wave gauges, and the fluid velocity field of the solitary wave was measured by Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) system. The measurements of solitary wave profile, celerity and horizontal fluid velocity were also compared with the predictions by three different solitary wave theories. Results demonstrated that the present simple system was reliable and effective for the generation of solitary waves in laboratory.


1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 31 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jerald D. Ramsden ◽  
John H. Nath

Stokes (1847) showed that finite amplitude progressing waves cause a net drift of fluid, in the direction of wave motion, which occurs in the upper portion of the water column. In a closed wave flume this drift must be accompanied by a return flow toward the wave generator to satisfy the conservation of mass. This study presents Eulerian velocity and water surface measurements soon after the onset of wave motion from 12 locations in a large scale flume. Waves with .67 < kh < 2.29 and .09 < H/h < .39 were produced in a water depth of 3.5 meters. Superimposing the return flow theory of Kim (1984) with seventh order stream function theory is shown to improve the velocity predictions. The measured return flows are a function of time and depth and agree with Kim's theory as a first approximation. The mean water surface set-down agrees with the theory of Brevik (1979) except for the nearly deep water waves.


2009 ◽  
Vol 41 (3) ◽  
pp. 035510 ◽  
Author(s):  
X Z Zhao ◽  
Z C Sun ◽  
S X Liang

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