scholarly journals Formulating Wave Overtopping at Vertical and Sloping Structures with Shallow Foreshores Using Deep-Water Wave Characteristics

2021 ◽  
Vol 147 (6) ◽  
pp. 04021036
Author(s):  
Christopher H. Lashley ◽  
Jentsje van der Meer ◽  
Jeremy D. Bricker ◽  
Corrado Altomare ◽  
Tomohiro Suzuki ◽  
...  
2012 ◽  
Vol 12 (7) ◽  
pp. 2425-2437 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Lecacheux ◽  
R. Pedreros ◽  
G. Le Cozannet ◽  
J. Thiébot ◽  
Y. De La Torre ◽  
...  

Abstract. This paper outlines a new approach devoted to the analysis of extreme waves in presence of several wave regimes. It entails discriminating the different wave regimes from offshore wave data using classification algorithms, before conducting the extreme wave analysis for each regime separately. The concept is applied to the pilot site of Reunion Island which is affected by three main wave regimes: southern waves, trade-wind waves and cyclonic waves. Several extreme wave scenarios are determined for each regime, based on real historical cases (for cyclonic waves) and extreme value analysis (for non-cyclonic waves). For each scenario, the nearshore wave characteristics are modelled all around Reunion Island and the linear theory equations are used to back calculate the equivalent deep-water wave characteristics for each portion of the coast. The relative exposure of the coastline to the extreme waves of each regime is determined by comparing the equivalent deep-water wave characteristics. This method provides a practical framework to perform an analysis of extremes within a complex environment presenting several sources of extreme waves. First, at a particular coastal location, it allows for inter-comparison between various kinds of extreme waves that are generated by different processes and that may occur at different periods of the year. Then, it enables us to analyse the alongshore variability in wave exposition, which is a good indicator of potential runup extreme values. For the case of Reunion Island, cyclonic waves are dominant offshore around the island, with equivalent deep-water wave heights up to 18 m for the northern part. Nevertheless, due to nearshore wave refraction, southern waves may become as energetic as cyclonic waves on the western part of the island and induce similar impacts in terms of runup and submersion. This method can be easily transposed to other case studies and can be adapted, depending on the data availability.


1964 ◽  
Vol 1 (9) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arthur Brebner ◽  
J.W. Kamphus

It has Long been recognized that the movement of Littoral material takes place, in the main, in the onshore regions of a beach where breaking of waves occurs. Waves whose crests in deep water make an angLe o(a with the shore Line, and which break at an angLe C*© , are the mam source of energy for the generation of the forces which manifest themselves in Long-shore currents and the resulting LittoraL transport. This littoraL materiaL is put into motion before, during and after breaking but it is extremeLy difficult to separate the effects of the forces and currents in these three zones. In what foLlows the authors have attempted to measure the intensity of the current around the breaking zone in a highLy ideaLized beach model in which the shore Line is straight, has a constant beach sLope, 0, and is attacked by waves of constant deep-water wave-height, HQ, and period, T. During refraction and shoaLing the angLe of the wave-crests with the shore-Line is reduced from o


2021 ◽  
Vol 144 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuzhu Li ◽  
David R. Fuhrman

Abstract Instabilities of deep-water wave trains subject to initially small perturbations (which then grow exponentially) can lead to extreme waves in offshore regions. The present study focuses on the two-dimensional Benjamin–Feir (or modulational) instability and the three-dimensional crescent (or horseshoe) waves, also known as Class I and Class II instabilities, respectively. Numerical studies on Class I and Class II wave instabilities to date have been mostly limited to models founded on potential flow theory; thus, they could only properly investigate the process from initial growth of the perturbations to the initial breaking point. The present study conducts numerical simulations to investigate the generation and development of wave instabilities involving the wave breaking process. A computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a turbulence closure model in terms of the Reynolds stress model is applied. Wave form evolutions, Fourier amplitudes, and the turbulence beneath the broken waves are investigated.


Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma

New experimental data for the evolution of deep-water wave packets has been presented. The present experimental data shows that the local maximum steepness for extreme waves is significantly above the criterion of the limiting Stokes waves. The wavelet spectra of the wave groups around the breaking locations indicate that the energy of higher harmonics can be generated quickly before wave breaking and mainly concentrate at the part of the wave fronts. After wave breaking, however, these higher harmonics energy is dissipated immediately. Furthermore, the variations of local peak frequency have also been examined. It is found that frequency downshift increases with the increase of initial steepness and wave packet size.


Water Waves ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 113-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Magnani ◽  
M. Onorato ◽  
D. Gunn ◽  
M. Rudman ◽  
B. Kibler ◽  
...  

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