Impact of Extratropical Cyclone Intensity and Speed on the Extreme Wave Trends in the Atlantic Ocean

This work analyzes the extratropical cyclone-related extreme waves in the ocean surface and their trends in the North and South Atlantic Oceans. Atmospheric and ocean wave products are obtained from ERA5, from 1979 to 2020 with 1-hourly outputs, covering 42 years with the present climate changes evaluated by the difference between the two 21-years time slices. The cyclones are tracked through the relative vorticity at 850 hPa and then associated with extreme wave events using an automated scheme that searches for an extreme wave region 1500 km from the centre of the cyclone, following criteria that exclude possible swell dominated events. The hot-spot regions of cyclone-related waves occurrence found by the method are in agreement with previous studies and are related to the cyclogenesis region and storm track orientation. Most cyclones associated with extreme wave events are generated in the western boundary of the domains. The east-poleward side of the ocean basins presents the highest density of occurrences related to the higher density of cyclone track and the dominance of more mature stage cyclones while in the west side prevail systems on developing stages, with notable propagating fronts and consequently, lower wind persistence. Changes in occurrence cannot be explained just by the storm track variation during the period due to the lack of statistical confidence. However, the wave occurrence responds to changes in the cyclone intensity, modulated by cyclone displacement speed. Regions with an increase of extreme waves are related to the effect of more intense cyclones or cyclones with slower propagation, being the last associated with a longer interaction of winds with the ocean surface.

Interplay Between Coastal Elevation and Wave Height Controls the Occurrence of Coastal Boulder Deposits in the Aran Islands, Ireland

Coastal boulder deposits (CBD) are wave-emplaced supratidal accumulations that record extreme inundation on rocky coasts. They are poorly understood but are of growing importance as we seek to better understand the extremes of wave power on coastlines. The Aran Islands, Ireland, host CBD in varying settings ranging from sheer cliff tops to wide shore platforms, and at elevations to about 40 m above sea level. Deposits are known to be active during strong storm events and provide a unique opportunity to examine relationships between wave energy, setting, and CBD occurrence. We use topographic elevation (Z) and offshore 100-years significant wave height (Hs,100) to calculate a dimensionless elevation Z* = Z/Hs,100 at 25 m intervals all along the Atlantic-facing coasts of the Aran Islands, and record whether CBD were present or absent at each location. The data reveal universal CBD presence at locations with low dimensionless elevations and near-monotonic decreasing frequency of CBD occurrence as Z* increases. On the Aran Islands, CBD are restricted to locations with Z*<3.13. For high elevation deposits it appears that unresolved local factors may be the major determinants in whether CBD will form. This approach can be applied at any CBD-bearing coastline and has the potential to change the way that we think about these deposits. Evaluation of dimensionless elevations at CBD locations around the world will help build broader understanding of the impact local shoreline conditions have on CBD formation. Determining these relationships contributes to the ongoing need to better understand interactions between extreme waves and rocky coasts.

Statistics of Simulated Storm Waves over Bathymetry

This paper shows simulations of high waves over different bathymetries to collect statistical information, particularly kurtosis and crest exceedance, that quantifies the occurrence of exceptionally extreme waves. This knowledge is especially pertinent for the design and operation of marine structures, safe ship trafficking, and mooring strategies for ships near the coast. Taking advantage of the flexibility to perform numerical simulations with HAWASSI software, with the aim of investigating the physical and statistical properties for these cases, this paper investigates the change in wave statistics related to changes in depth, breaking and differences between long- and short-crested waves. Three different types of bathymetry are considered: run-up to the coast with slope 1/20, waves over a shoal, and deep open-water waves. Simulations show good agreement in the examined cases compared with the available experimental data and simulations. Then predictive simulations for cases with a higher significant wave height illustrate the changes that may occur during storm events.