Irregular Wave Transformation Processes in Surf and Swash Zones

1993 ◽  
Author(s):  
Daniel T. Cox ◽  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi ◽  
Andojo Wurjanto
Keyword(s):  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Transformation Processes

scholarly journals Numerical Simulation of Wave Propagation, Breaking, and Setup on Steep Fringing Reefs

Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (9) ◽  
pp. 1147 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shanju Zhang ◽  
Liangsheng Zhu ◽  
Jianhua Li
Keyword(s):  
Finite Difference ◽  
Finite Volume ◽  
Boussinesq Equations ◽  
Transformation Process ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Computational Accuracy ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Eddy Viscosity Model ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Volume Method

The prediction of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics is essential in the design and construction of reef top structures on fringing reefs. To simulate the transformation process with better accuracy and time efficiency, a shock-capturing numerical model based on the extended Boussinesq equations suitable for rapidly varying topography with respect to wave transformation, breaking and runup, is established. A hybrid finite volume–finite difference scheme is used to discretize conservation form of the extended Boussinesq equations. The finite-volume method with a HLL Riemann solver is applied to the flux terms, while finite-difference discretization is applied to the remaining terms. The fourth-order MUSCL (Monotone Upstream-centered Schemes for Conservation Laws) scheme is employed to create interface variables, with in which the van-Leer limiter is adopted to improve computational accuracy on complex topography. Taking advantage of van-Leer limiter, a nested model is used to take account of both computational run time and accuracy. A modified eddy viscosity model is applied to better accommodate wave breaking on steep reef slopes. The established model is validated with laboratory measurements of regular and irregular wave transformation and breaking on steep fringing reefs. Results show the model can provide satisfactory predictions of wave height, mean water level and the generation of higher harmonics.

Irregular Wave Transformation Affected by Opposing Currents

1987 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shigeki Sakai ◽  
Kouetsu Hiyamizu ◽  
Hiroshi Saeki
Keyword(s):  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Irregular Wave

Numerical Simulation of Wave Transformation Using Spectral Wave Action Model

2014 ◽  
Vol 638-640 ◽  
pp. 1261-1265 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yun Peng Zhang ◽  
Ming Liang Zhang ◽  
Zi Ning Hao ◽  
Yuan Yuan Xu ◽  
Yang Qiao
Keyword(s):  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Real Life ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Action ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wind Effect ◽  
Random Wave ◽  
Action Model ◽  
Averaged Model ◽  
Transformation Processes

This paper presents a spectral wave action model to simulate random wave deformation and transformation. The wave model is based on the wave action balance equation and can simulate wave fields by accounting for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction and wind effect in coastal waters. It is a finite-difference, phase averaged model for the steady-state wave spectral transformation. The wave model is applied to verify different experimental cases and real life case of considering the several factor effects. The calculated results agree with the experimental and field data. The results show that the wave model presented herein should be useful in simulating the wave transformation processes in complicated coastal waters.

scholarly journals INFLUENCE OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION PROCESSES ON EVOLUTION OF UNDERWATER BEACH PROFILE

2018 ◽  
pp. 65 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Olga Kuznetsova
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Qualitative Assessment ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Physical Processes ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Transformation Processes

On the base of field experimental data were confirmed that the main wave parameters for cross-shore sediment transport are the significant wave height, spectral peak period and wave steepness. Waves with narrowband spectrum more effect on changes of underwater profile. For a qualitative assessment of erosion/accumulation the Dean parameter, the Ursell and Iribarren numbers can be used. However the physical processes of wave transformation play an important role. The most significant are nonlinear wave transformation and wave breaking, especially the type of wave breaking.

scholarly journals HYDRODYNAMIC PERFORMANCE OF A FREE SURFACE SEMICIRCULAR PERFORATED BREAKWATER

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 20 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hee Min Teh ◽  
Vengatesan Venugopal ◽  
Tom Bruce
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Wave Attenuation ◽  
Hydrodynamic Performance ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Hydrodynamic Characteristics ◽  
Wave Forces ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Energy Dissipater ◽  
Horizontal Wave ◽  
Perforated Breakwater

The increasing importance of the sustainability challenge in coastal engineering has led to the development of free surface breakwaters of various configurations. In this study, the hydrodynamic characteristics of a perforated semicircular free surface breakwater (SCB) are investigated for irregular wave conditions. The hydrodynamic performance of the breakwater is evaluated in the form of transmission, reflection and energy dissipation coefficients, which are then presented as a function of the relative submergence depth (D/d) and the relative breakwater width (B/Lp), where D = the depth of immersion, d = the water depth, B = the breakwater width and Lp = the wavelength corresponding to the peak wave period. It is found that the wave attenuation ability of the SCB model improves with the increase of D/d and B/Lp. The SCB performs better as an energy dissipater than as a wave reflector. Based on the analysis of measured data, some empirical equations are proposed to predict the performance of the breakwater under varying submergence depths. The behaviour of wave transformation around and within the breakwater’s chamber is discussed. Also, the measured horizontal wave forces acting on the SCB are reported.

scholarly journals Observation of irregular wave transformation in the surf zone over a gently sloping sandy beach on the French Atlantic coastline

2001 ◽  
Vol 24 (6) ◽  
pp. 545-556 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nadia Sénéchal ◽  
Hélène Dupuis ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Hélène Howa ◽  
Rodrigo Pedreros
Keyword(s):  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Irregular Wave

Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore

2016 ◽  
Vol 858 ◽  
pp. 354-358
Author(s):  
Tao You ◽  
Li Ping Zhao ◽  
Zheng Xiao ◽  
Lun Chao Huang ◽  
Xiao Rui Han
Keyword(s):  
Theoretical Model ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Irregular Wave

Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height variation caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction, and about the wave breaking criterion under regular and irregular breaking waves. Flume experiments relating to the regular and irregular breaking wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. The agreement is good between the theoretical and experimental results.

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