An Experiment at Sea on Mechanics of the Wave Groups

Author(s):  
Paolo Boccotti ◽  
Giuseppe Barbaro ◽  
Lucio Mannino
Keyword(s):  
2021 ◽  
Vol 911 ◽  
Author(s):  
L.F. Chen ◽  
P.H. Taylor ◽  
D.Z. Ning ◽  
P.W. Cong ◽  
H. Wolgamot ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  

Abstract


Author(s):  
J. Westhuis ◽  
E. van Groesen ◽  
R. Huijsmans
Keyword(s):  

2016 ◽  
Vol 98 ◽  
pp. 1-11 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. Zheng ◽  
B.B. Zhao ◽  
W.Y. Duan ◽  
R.C. Ertekin ◽  
X.B. Chen
Keyword(s):  

1971 ◽  
Vol 93 (3) ◽  
pp. 783-792 ◽  
Author(s):  
Denys J. Mead

The vibration response of periodic, beam-like structures has conventionally been studied either by transfer matrix or normal mode methods. The latter method becomes unwieldy if the damping and modal density are high, whereas the former method does not lend itself readily to giving physical understanding. It is shown in this paper that a special class of flexural wave groups can exist in periodic structures; an understanding of them permits a ready formulation of the response-calculation problem. The formulation can be applied to both infinite and finite structures, and the amount of damping present may have any value. The method is specially well adapted to studying response due to convected pressure fields and loadings and gives great physical insight. Illustrations are given relating to beams resting at regular intervals on flexible supports and to aeronautical rib-skin structures. Some calculated values of vibration response are presented and discussed and optimum structural configurations are considered.


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 134 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.R. Johnson ◽  
E.P.D. Mansard ◽  
J. Ploeg

It has been found that certain sequences of waves, such as occurring within well defined wave groups, can cause greater damage to rubble mound structures, than equally high individual waves dispersed throughout a wave train. It has therefore been necessary to develop a new wave synthesizing technique, which allows control of the phasing of the wave frequencies, so that a similar degree of wave grouping can be produced in the laboratory as is expected to occur at a particular location in the prototype. Also, during the course of this investigation, an attempt was made to simulate the strength of concrete armour units to the correct model scale. The breaking of armour units, due to their rocking or being displaced, resulted in a much higher percentage of damage, than would have been possible to predict from tests with commonly used model armour units.


2015 ◽  
Vol 2 (4) ◽  
pp. 1159-1195 ◽  
Author(s):  
L. Shemer ◽  
B. K. Ee

Abstract. A method was developed to carry out detailed qualitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the measurements of unidirectional wave groups. Computational results on evolving wave groups were compared with the available experiments. The local surface elevation variation, evolution of envelope shapes, the velocity of propagation of the steepest crests in the group and their relation to the height of the crests were obtained numerically and experimentally. Conditions corresponding to incipient wave breaking were investigated in greater detail. The results shed additional light on the limits of applicability of the computational results, as well as on mechanisms leading to the breaking of steep waves.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Konstantinos Chasapis ◽  
Eugeny Buldakov ◽  
Helen Czerski

<p>The bubbles generated by breaking waves in the open ocean are an important feature of the ocean surface. They affect optical and acoustical properties of the top few meters of the ocean, influence surfactant scavenging, aerosol production and air-sea gas transfer. Short-lived larger bubbles which re-surface and burst dominate the transfer of less soluble gases such as carbon dioxide. A single wave crest approaching breaking deforms rapidly and in a storm sea the most common breaker is the spilling type. Detailed observations in space and time connecting the shape of the spilling breaker to subsequent bubble populations are limited, and the effect on the bubble penetration depth and residence time underwater is particularly important. In this study, we carried out a series of experiments to track the formation and evolution of large bubbles for different local crest geometries.</p><p>A breaking wave in a wave flume was generated with dispersive focusing of a wave group. The group has a pre-defined amplitude spectrum. Running experiments with different phase shifts of the same amplitude spectrum showed that when a peak-focussed wave (zero phase shift) breaks, then wave groups with other added phase shifts break as well. To investigate possible differences in the deformation of those breakers a laser imaging technique was used. An algorithm identified the 2D shape of the breaker in successive images. It also separated the crests from bulges based on geometric criteria. We showed that, despite wave groups having same spectra, the extracted bulges differed locally in shape, volume and velocity for each phase shift at the location of breaking. Therefore, breakers ranging from the more traditional spilling type, which has a bulge that collapses on the front face of the wave, to the micro-plunging type, which has a pronounced overturning tip, were observed depending on the phase shift. </p><p>The evolution of bubbles for each phase shifted bulge was captured by a high speed camera and measured by a feature extraction algorithm. We generally found that spilling bulges created fewer bubbles in total than micro-plungers. They also created fewer larger bubbles, i.e. with radius r>1 mm, at all measured flume areas. In contrast, micro-plungers that trap air within a small cavity as they break had less steep size distributions for r>1 mm. The maximum volume of air per radius showed a gradual shift from r>1 mm to r=1 mm moving away from the breaking location for all breakers. It is interesting, finally, that the maximum volume per radius did not shift to smaller radii as time passes. This is an indication that the largest bubbles, i.e. r>4 mm, rise to the surface and burst instead of splitting into smaller ones, irrespectively of the local breaker properties. </p>


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