scholarly journals Steep unidirectional wave groups – fully nonlinear simulations vs. experiments

2015 ◽  
Vol 2 (4) ◽  
pp. 1159-1195 ◽  
Author(s):  
L. Shemer ◽  
B. K. Ee
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Computational Results ◽  
Local Surface ◽  
Qualitative Comparison ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Fully Nonlinear ◽  
Nonlinear Simulations ◽  
Velocity Of Propagation ◽  
Steep Waves

Abstract. A method was developed to carry out detailed qualitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the measurements of unidirectional wave groups. Computational results on evolving wave groups were compared with the available experiments. The local surface elevation variation, evolution of envelope shapes, the velocity of propagation of the steepest crests in the group and their relation to the height of the crests were obtained numerically and experimentally. Conditions corresponding to incipient wave breaking were investigated in greater detail. The results shed additional light on the limits of applicability of the computational results, as well as on mechanisms leading to the breaking of steep waves.

Steep Unidirectional Wave Groups: Fully Nonlinear Simulations vs Experiments

2015 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lev Shemer ◽  
Bernard K. Ee
Keyword(s):  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Computational Results ◽  
Local Surface ◽  
Qualitative Comparison ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Fully Nonlinear ◽  
Nonlinear Simulations ◽  
Velocity Of Propagation ◽  
Steep Waves

A method was developed to carry out detailed qualitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the measurements of unidirectional wave groups. Computational results on evolving wave groups were compared with the available experiments. The local surface elevation variation, evolution of envelope shapes, the velocity of propagation of the steepest crests in the group and their relation to the height of the crests were obtained numerically and experimentally. The results shed additional light on the mechanisms leading to the breaking of steep waves.

scholarly journals Steep unidirectional wave groups – fully nonlinear simulations vs. experiments

2015 ◽  
Vol 22 (6) ◽  
pp. 737-747 ◽  
Author(s):  
L. Shemer ◽  
B. K. Ee
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Initial Conditions ◽  
Crucial Importance ◽  
Local Surface ◽  
Exact Matching ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Fully Nonlinear ◽  
Nonlinear Simulations ◽  
Velocity Of Propagation ◽  
Steep Waves

Abstract. A detailed quantitative comparison of fully nonlinear computations with the measurements of unidirectional wave groups is presented. Computational results on evolving wave groups were compared with previous available experiments. The local surface elevation variation, the evolution of envelope shapes, the velocity of propagation of the steepest crests in the group and their relation to the height of the crests were obtained numerically and experimentally. Conditions corresponding to incipient wave breaking were investigated in greater detail. The results shed additional light on mechanisms leading to the breaking of steep waves, as well as on the crucial importance of exact matching between initial conditions in computations and experiments.

scholarly journals Observations of Breaking Waves and Energy Dissipation in Modulated Wave Groups

2018 ◽  
Vol 48 (12) ◽  
pp. 2937-2948 ◽  
Author(s):  
David W. Wang ◽  
Hemantha W. Wijesekera
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Dissipation Rate ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Dissipation Rates ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Tke Dissipation Rate ◽  
The Impact

AbstractIt has been recognized that modulated wave groups trigger wave breaking and generate energy dissipation events on the ocean surface. Quantitative examination of wave-breaking events and associated turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rates within a modulated wave group in the open ocean is not a trivial task. To address this challenging topic, a set of laboratory experiments was carried out in an outdoor facility, the Oil and Hazardous Material Simulated Environment Test Tank (203 m long, 20 m wide, 3.5 m deep). TKE dissipation rates at multiple depths were estimated directly while moving the sensor platform at a speed of about 0.53 m s−1 toward incoming wave groups generated by the wave maker. The largest TKE dissipation rates and significant whitecaps were found at or near the center of wave groups where steepening waves approached the geometric limit of waves. The TKE dissipation rate was O(10−2) W kg−1 during wave breaking, which is two to three orders of magnitude larger than before and after wave breaking. The enhanced TKE dissipation rate was limited to a layer of half the wave height in depth. Observations indicate that the impact of wave breaking was not significant at depths deeper than one wave height from the surface. The TKE dissipation rate of breaking waves within wave groups can be parameterized by local wave phase speed with a proportionality breaking strength coefficient dependent on local steepness. The characterization of energy dissipation in wave groups from local wave properties will enable a better determination of near-surface TKE dissipation of breaking waves.

Effects of Surface Tension in the Near Field Wave Breaking of Ships

2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fabrizio Pistani ◽  
Angelo Olivieri ◽  
Emilio Campana
Keyword(s):  
Surface Tension ◽  
Free Surface ◽  
Flow Velocity ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Near Field ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Vortical Structures ◽  
High Speeds ◽  
Resistance Curves ◽  
Surface Tension Forces

When model experiments are performed the viscous and surface tension forces are not scaled accordingly. Thus not all of the features of the flow can be satisfactorily reproduced at model scale. A comparative set of experiments for measuring the model resistance, the free surface elevation and the flow velocity in the near field, have been carried out for models of different scales for evaluating the influence of the dimensions in reproducing the complete wave breaking dynamics. The resistance curves of the models show that the scale effect is present both for low and high speeds. Comparison of the averaged surface elevation reveals that the largest model possess already some of the full scale features. The comparison of the flow velocity fields highlights substantial differences among the models in the formation of the vortical structures. The influence of these vortices on the free surface is discussed and a correlation with surface scars is proposed.

scholarly journals Modelling of tsunami wave run-up, breaking and impact on vertical wall by SPH method

2013 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 2831-2857
Author(s):  
M. H. Dao ◽  
H. Xu ◽  
E. S. Chan ◽  
P. Tkalich
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Sph Method ◽  
Particle Hydrodynamics ◽  
Potential Applications ◽  
Sph Model ◽  
Smoothed Particle ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Steep Waves ◽  
Tunami N2

Abstract. Accurate predictions of wave run-up and run-down are important for coastal impact assessment of relatively long waves such as tsunami or storm waves. Wave run-up is, however, a complex process involving nonlinear build-up of the wave front, intensive wave breaking and strong turbulent flow, making the numerical approximation challenging. Recent advanced modeling methodologies could help to overcome these numerical challenges. For a demonstration, we study run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on vertical wall using two methods, the enhanced Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method and the traditional non-breaking nonlinear model Tunami-N2. The Tunami-N2 model fails to capture the evolution of steep waves at the proximity of breaking that observed in the experiments. Whereas, the SPH method successfully simulate the wave propagation, breaking, impact on structure and the reform and breaking processes of wave run-down. The study also indicates that inadequate approximation of the wave breaking could lead to significant under-predictions of wave height and impact pressure on structures. The SPH model shows potential applications for accurate impact assessments of wave run-up onto coastal structures.

Forecast of Critical Wave Groups From Surface Elevation Snapshots

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gu¨nther F. Clauss ◽  
Daniel Testa ◽  
Sascha Kosleck ◽  
Robert Stu¨ck
Keyword(s):  
Wave Train ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Amplitude Spectrum ◽  
Response Spectra ◽  
Phase Spectrum ◽  
Surface Elevation ◽  
Fast Fourier Transformation ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
The Impact

Reports on damages of ships, cargo and structures during heavy seas have been increasing within the last years. The impact of single extreme waves or wave groups on marine structures and ships causes enormous forces often leading to critical situations or even loss of crew, ship and cargo. Dangerous situations can be predicted by a forecast of encountering wave trains and the identification of critical wave groups. The paper presents a method to calculate the wave train a ship will encounter from surface elevation snapshots of the surrounding sea, taken by the ship radar. The time-dependent surface elevation snapshot far ahead of the ship is transferred into frequency domain by the use of Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The resulting complex Fourier spectrum given over the inverse wave length 1/L is converted into an amplitude spectrum and a phase spectrum. By shifting the phase spectrum to the position of the cruising ship the encountering waves can in turn be calculated in advance — depending on speed. The permanent processing of incoming snapshots delivers a continuous prediction of the water surface elevation at the position of the cruising ship. Based on these data the expected ship motion behaviour can be calculated continuously in time domain. In addition the response spectra, resulting from the wave spectrum and the relevant RAOs, are also evaluated. As wave data far ahead of the ship are used, it allows a forward glance, and dangerous situations, particularly resonance and parametric resonance are detectable before the ship is encountering this wave train. Consequently, the procedure can be used by the master as an assistance support system.

scholarly journals On kinematics of very steep waves

2013 ◽  
Vol 13 (8) ◽  
pp. 2101-2107 ◽  
Author(s):  
L. Shemer
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wide Spectrum ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Vertical Acceleration ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Third Order ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
The Third ◽  
Steep Waves ◽  
Group Velocities

Abstract. Experiments on extremely steep deterministic waves generated in a large wave tank by focusing of a broad-banded wave train serve as a motivation for the theoretical analysis of the conditions leading to wave breaking. Particular attention is given to the crest of the steepest wave where both the horizontal velocity and the vertical acceleration attain their maxima. Analysis is carried out up to the third order in wave steepness. The apparent, Eulerian and Lagrangian accelerations are computed for wave parameters observed in experiments. It is demonstrated that for a wave group with a wide spectrum, the crest propagation velocity differs significantly from both the phase and the group velocities of the peak wave. Conclusions are drawn regarding the applicability of various criteria for wave breaking.

CONVECTIVE PATTERNS IN LIQUID–VAPOR SYSTEMS WITH DIFFUSE INTERFACE

2006 ◽  
Vol 16 (09) ◽  
pp. 2705-2711 ◽  
Author(s):  
RODICA BORCIA ◽  
DOMNIC MERKT ◽  
MICHAEL BESTEHORN
Keyword(s):  
Phase Field ◽  
Compressible Fluid ◽  
Field Model ◽  
Marangoni Convection ◽  
Van Der Waals ◽  
Phase Field Model ◽  
Diffuse Interface ◽  
Fully Nonlinear ◽  
Nonlinear Simulations ◽  
Liquid Vapor

Recently, we have developed a phase field model to describe Marangoni convection with evaporation in a compressible fluid of van der Waals type away from criticality [Eur. Phys. J. B44 (2005)]. Using this model, we report now 2D fully nonlinear simulations where we emphasize the influence of evaporation on convective patterns.

scholarly journals Multiscale Momentum Flux and Diffusion due to Whitecapping in Wave–Current Interactions

2011 ◽  
Vol 41 (5) ◽  
pp. 837-856 ◽  
Author(s):  
Juan M. Restrepo ◽  
Jorge M. Ramírez ◽  
James C. McWilliams ◽  
Michael Banner
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Layer ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Fluid Velocity ◽  
Gaussian Model ◽  
Ocean Surface ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Surface Boundary ◽  
Relative Role ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Energy Convergence

Abstract Whitecapping affects the Reynolds stresses near the ocean surface. A model for the conservative dynamics of waves and currents is modified to include the averaged effect of multiple, short-lived, and random wave-breaking events on large spatiotemporal scales. In this study’s treatment, whitecapping is parameterized stochastically as an additive uncertainty in the fluid velocity. It is coupled to the Stokes drift as well as to the current velocity in the form of nonlinear momentum terms in the vortex force and the Bernoulli head. The effects of whitecapping on tracer dynamics, mass balances, and boundary conditions are also derived here. Whitecapping also modifies the dynamics and the size of the sea surface boundary layer. This study does not resolve the boundary layer, however, the authors appeal to traditional viscosity parameterizations to include these diffusive effects, modified for the context of wave–current interactions. The parameterized breaking velocity field is endowed with empirical rules that link their generation in space and time to properties and dynamics of wave groups. The energy convergence rate of wave groups is used as an indicator for the onset of wave breaking. A methodology is proposed for evaluating this criterion over an evolving random Gaussian model for the ocean surface. The expected spatiotemporal statistics of the breaking events are not imposed, but rather computed, and are found to agree with the general expectation of its Poisson character. The authors also compute, rather than impose, the shear stress associated with the breaking events and find it to agree with theoretical expectations. When the relative role played by waves and breaking events on currents is compared, this study finds that waves, via the vortex force, purely advect the vorticity of currents that are essentially only dependent on transverse coordinates. The authors show that currents will tend to get rougher in the direction of steady wind, when whitecapping is present. Breaking events can alter and even suppress the rate of advection in the vortex force. When comparing the rates of transport, the waves will tend to dominate the short term and the whitecapping of the long-term rate.

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