The application of the doppler shifted dispersion relationship to hurricane wave data from an ADCP directional wave gauge and co-located pressure sensor

Author(s):  
B. Strong ◽  
B. Brundey ◽  
G.W. Stone ◽  
Xiongping Zhang
Author(s):  
Kusalika Ariyarathne ◽  
Pavithra Jayarathne

Preliminary results of a numerical model developed to detail spatial and temporal assessment of theoretically available near shore wave energy, and potential wave energy extracting sites, along the Sri Lankan coast is presented in this paper. Wave energy is estimated applying Danish Hydraulic Institute's Mike 21 Spectral Wave (SW) module. The model is developed and applied covering an area along the coast line of entire country extending from 315000 to 640000 mE, and 602000 to 1164000 mN. Model was run with boundary inputs of wind and wave, based on long term measured, and long term hindcast directional wave data available at seven locations, which are well distributed around the country. Model calibration and validation are carried out based on long term measured directional wave data at Colombo, Sri Lanka. Based on the estimated wave energy density maps, and spatial and temporal energy variations, Hambantota, in South East coast is identified as the most feasible location for wave energy harnessing. Annual and seasonal availability of the wave energy, for Hambantota area, at 25 m depth, were looked into in detail. In the above area, mean annual energy potential was estimated as 10 kW/m at 25 m depth, whereas maximum annual potential energy was estimated as 36 kW/m. During South West monsoon, where high waves are present, the mean energy potential is estimated as 15 kW/m.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/dPa9istaB7A


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephane Law Chune ◽  
Lotfi Aouf ◽  
Alice Dalphinet ◽  
Bruno Levier ◽  
Yann Drillet

<p><strong>As part of the Copernicus Marine Core service, WAVERYS is the multi-year wave reanalysis that aims to provide global wave data with a grid resolution of 1/5°. The wave reanalysis covers the period of 1993-2018 and provides 3-hourly classical integrated wave parameters describing the sea state at the ocean surface. The wave model used is the V4 version of the model MFWAM, which is driven by atmospheric forcing (winds and ice fraction) from ECMWF ERA5 reanalysis. This latter has showed a significant improvement regarding to the previous reanalysis ERA-Interim. WAVERYS includes the assimilation of altimeters wave data available during the period starting from Topex-Poseidon until Sentinel-3A missions. Directional wave spectra from Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) of Sentinel-1A and 1B missions are also assimilated. This is the first time that such directional wave spectra are used in a global wave reanalysis.</strong></p><p><strong>Further, WAVERYS uses a 3 hour surface current forcing provided by ocean reanalysis GLORYS12 implemented by Mercator-Ocean in the frame of Copernicus Marine Service with a grid resolution of 1/12°. The wave reanalysis is high skilled for ocean regions with dominant wave-currents interactions. Preliminary validation tests have shown improvement by 15% in scatter index for large scale high currents areas. This paper will give detailed characteristics of the wave system and will insist on the benefits of taking into account ocean currents and a physics calibrated for realistic swell propagation.</strong></p><p> </p>


1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 11
Author(s):  
M.C. Deo ◽  
R. Burrows

Potential inconsistencies in the predictions of long term wave heights can be experienced as a result of different methods of analysis possible when using directional wave data. This paper attempts to illustrate some of them. It involves analysis of two sets of directional wave data - one froa a coastal location in the Irish Sea and another from an offshore location in the North Sea. An attempt is made to eliminate the discrepancies between the long term return-value wave height predictions based upon the conditional height distributions associa ted with different direction sectors and those derived from the oonl-directional data set.


Author(s):  
H. H. Shih ◽  
C. Long ◽  
M. Bushnell ◽  
K. Hathaway

The use of Triaxys directional wave buoy and acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) for wave measurements are relatively recent. The US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA) National Ocean Service (NOS) acquired these instruments in 2001 and systematic laboratory and field tests were conducted during 2001–2002. This paper describes the field tests conducted near the US Army Corps of Engineers’ Field Research Facility (FRF) ocean pier and near the Barren Islands in the Chesapeake Bay. At the FRF site, Triaxys buoy wave measurements were compared with FRF’s field standards of pressure sensor arrays and Datawell Waverider buoy. For the Bay test, ADCP was compared with the Triaxys buoy. There are significant numbers of outlier in the Triaxys peak periods at both test sites. In the Chesapeake Bay, which is dominated by high frequency and low energy waves, there is much scatter in the Triaxys data for significant wave heights below 0.2 m. Detailed analyses were performed after these outliers and noisy data were removed. Statistics of differences in significant wave heights, peak periods and directions between each comparative pair were computed and characteristics of frequency and frequency-direction spectra were examined. Overall, correlations between each instrument pair are very good in significant wave heights, fair in wave peak periods (except the ADCP/Triaxys pair), and marginal in wave directions. Triaxys buoy compared better with Waverider buoy than with others. Both ADCP and FRF pressure sensor array exhibit higher resolution in detecting multi-modal and multi-frequency waves. In most cases, energy distribution of spectral peaks in Triaxys buoy data differs significantly from those obtained from FRF pressure sensor array and ADCP.


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