N-Wave Runup Statistics at Surf Zone Using Boussinesq-Type Model

2012 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. M. Chen ◽  
D. Liang ◽  
R. Rana
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Extreme Event ◽  
Tsunami Wave ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Strongly Correlated ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Physical Processes ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Effects ◽  
N Wave

A TVD Lax-Wendroff scheme solves the Boussinesq-type equations is presented, extensively validated, and clearly demonstrated to be a robust and efficient engineering tool to simulate the physical processes involved in the tsunami wave runup and interaction of the propagating solitary waves with the idealized coastal beaches. To better understand the physical processes of the tsunami wave runup at surf zone, a parametric study concerning N-wave runup is carried out. For all cases investigated, the qualitative features of the propagating N-waves remain unaltered, even for the large wave events. The relative maximum runup height and wave steepness are found to be strongly correlated and appeared to be linearly asymptotic in form. Also, the severity of extreme wave attack is found to be a function of beach slope for a given extreme event. The numerical simulations reveal the significance of the nonlinear wave effects on the predicted maximum N-wave runup heights, which provide guidance in selecting the design height of coastal defence structures and specifying the clearance distance between the shoreline and infrastructure.

Laboratory Investigation on Tsunami Wave Runup

2012 ◽  
Vol 212-213 ◽  
pp. 336-340
Author(s):  
Jie Chen ◽  
Chang Bo Jiang ◽  
Hu Ying Liu ◽  
Zhi Yuan Wu
Keyword(s):  
Theoretical Analysis ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Tsunami Wave ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Sand Beach ◽  
Maximum Elevation ◽  
N Wave ◽  
Water Depths

The 2D laboratory experiments were performed to investigate tsunami wave runup on the combined sand beach. The N-wave was generated in three different water depths. The water surface elevations, maximum elevation of runup and snapshots of wave uprush and back wash were measured. The theoretical analysis of runup was presented. The results showed that uprush water wave had a decelerate process. The maximum elevation of runup R depends on incident wave height H and R is linear relationship with H plus water depth h.

scholarly journals Fractal and Fractional Derivative Modelling of Material Phase Change

2020 ◽  
Vol 4 (3) ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Harry Esmonde
Keyword(s):  
Transfer Functions ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Material Structure ◽  
Iterative Approach ◽  
Response Functions ◽  
Physical Processes ◽  
Ethyl Vinyl ◽  
Solid Models ◽  
Liquid Type ◽  
Model Phase

An iterative approach is taken to develop a fractal topology that can describe the material structure of phase changing materials. Transfer functions and frequency response functions based on fractional calculus are used to describe this topology and then applied to model phase transformations in liquid/solid transitions in physical processes. Three types of transformation are tested experimentally, whipping of cream (rheopexy), solidification of gelatine and melting of ethyl vinyl acetate (EVA). A liquid-type model is used throughout the cream whipping process while liquid and solid models are required for gelatine and EVA to capture the yield characteristic of these materials.

scholarly journals WAVE OVERTOPPIMG EQUATION

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 156 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Richard Weggel
Keyword(s):  
Scale Effects ◽  
Beach Erosion ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Lake Okeechobee ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Test Conditions ◽  
Model Wave ◽  
Wave Heights

In the early 1950's the Corps of Engineers' Jacksonville District initiated a series of laboratory tests to investigate the overtopping of proposed levee sections for Lake Okeechobee, Florida. For economic reasons, the alternative to build levees with crest elevations that were at times below the limit of wave runup was investigated and the quantities of water carried over the structures for various freeboard allowances, structure slopes and wave conditions determined. The initial tests were conducted at the Waterways Experiment Station (WES) in Vieksburg, Mississippi for the Jacksonville District at what was taken to be a 1 to 30 model scale. Model wave heights varied from 1+.05 cm to 12.2 cm (0.133 to 0.^0 ft). In order to expand the range of test conditions investigated, the Beach Erosion Board, currently the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), commissioned an expanded series of tests that considered the overtopping of riprap faced, curved and stepped seawalls as well as the overtopping of "smooth" slopes. These tests, also conducted at WES, were considered to be at a 1 to 17 scale with model wave heights ranging from 5-36 cm to 21.5 cm (0.176 to O.706 ft). A number of tests were subsequently conducted in CERC's large wave tank to determine the influence scale effects might have on overtopping. These tests are referred to as 1 to 2 1/2 scale tests. The model wave heights investigated ranged from U8.8 cm to 11*0.2 cm. (1.60 to h.6o ft).

scholarly journals SHOREWARD SAND TRANSPORT OUTSIDE THE SURFZONE, NORTHERN GOLD COAST, AUSTRALIA

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dean Patterson
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
River Mouth ◽  
Transport Processes ◽  
Gold Coast ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Shoreline Evolution ◽  
The One

To date, no suitable theoretical basis has been derived to predict with reliable accuracy the shoreward sand transport under waves in the deeper water outside the surf zone. This is important for understanding the rate of recovery of beaches after major storm erosion and, in some circumstances, to quantify net shoreward supply of sand to the shoreline from the active lower shore-face below the depth of storm erosion bar development. Even a relatively low rate of long term shoreward net supply may contribute to shoreline stability where it offsets a gradient in the longshore sand transport that would otherwise lead to recession. This paper outlines the results of analysis of a 41 year dataset of beach and nearshore profile surveys to quantify annual average rates of shoreward net sand transport in 6-20m water in an area where the profiles are not in equilibrium due to the existence of a residual river mouth ebb delta bar lobe. Additionally, an empirical adaptation of the sheet flow relationship of Ribberink and Al-Salem (1990) to provide for the effects of ripples has been derived from large wave flume data and correlates well with the measured Gold Coast transport rates. These have been applied to a new coastline modelling system developed as part of research into the long term evolution of Australia’s central east coast region in response to sea level change and longshore sand transport processes, which combines the one-line concept of shoreline profile translation within the zone of littoral sand transport with cross-shore profile evolution across the deeper shore-face profile below that zone. It demonstrates the importance of providing for both the shoreward supply from the continental shelf and the varying profile response time-scale across the shore-face in predicting shoreline evolution.

scholarly journals Nonlinear dynamics of wave-groups in random seas: unexpected walls of water in the open ocean

2015 ◽  
Vol 471 (2184) ◽  
pp. 20150660 ◽  
Author(s):  
Thomas A. A. Adcock ◽  
Paul H. Taylor ◽  
Scott Draper
Keyword(s):  
Extreme Event ◽  
Open Ocean ◽  
Extreme Waves ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Large Wave ◽  
Linear Evolution ◽  
Random Seas ◽  
The Waves

This paper investigates the size and structure of large waves on the open ocean. We investigate how nonlinear physics modifies waves relative to those predicted by a linear model. We run linear random simulations and extract extreme waves and the surrounding sea-state. For each extreme event, we propagate the waves back in time under linear evolution before propagating the wave-field forward using a nonlinear model. The differences between large linear and nonlinear wave-groups are then examined. The general trends are that under nonlinear evolution, relative to linear evolution, there is, on average, little or no extra amplitude in the nonlinear simulations; that there is an increase in the width of the crest of the wave-group and a contraction of large wave-groups in the mean wave direction; that large waves tend to move to the front of a wave-packet meaning that the locally largest wave is relatively bigger than the wave preceding it; and that nonlinearity can increase the duration of extreme wave events. In all these trends, there is considerable scatter, although the effects observed are clear. Our simulations show that nonlinearity does play an important part in the formation of extreme waves on deep water.

Some approaches to local modelling of tsunami wave runup on a coast

2008 ◽  
Vol 23 (6) ◽  
Author(s):  
V. K. Gusyakov ◽  
Z. I. Fedotova ◽  
G. S. Khakimzyanov ◽  
L. B. Chubarov ◽  
Yu. I. Shokin
Keyword(s):  
Tsunami Wave ◽  
Wave Runup

scholarly journals Irregular wave runup statistics on plane beaches: Application of a Boussinesq-type model incorporating a generating–absorbing sponge layer and second-order wave generation

2016 ◽  
Vol 114 ◽  
pp. 309-324 ◽  
Author(s):  
Colm J. Fitzgerald ◽  
Paul H. Taylor ◽  
Jana Orszaghova ◽  
Alistair G.L. Borthwick ◽  
Colin Whittaker ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Generation ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Sponge Layer
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