Re-artification in a World of De-artification: Materiality and Intellectualization in Fashion Media Discourse (1949–2010)

2014 ◽  
Vol 8 (4) ◽  
pp. 443-461 ◽  
Author(s):  
Aurélie Van de Peer

Through a grounded theory analysis of 1301 collection reviews from The New York Times and The International Herald Tribune, issued between 1949 and 2010, the article discusses the shift in the themes that journalists employ to make sense of the latest collections. Contemporary journalists pay far less attention to the materiality of fashion than their earlier colleagues did. In the late 20th century they construed designer fashion as an intellectual practice. The article traces this shift to developments in the structural organization of the field of high-end fashion production, which today is involved in a process of de-artification, as the commercial aspects of the fashion system became more apparent in the later 20th century. In the 1990s leading fashion journalists drew on the new intellectual conception of designer fashion to engage in a process of re-artification. Hereby they seek to create an image of cultural worth for their object of criticism and for themselves, while they also seek to reinforce the long-standing but challenged division between mass market and high-end fashion.

Tapestry, the most costly and coveted art form in Renaissance and Baroque Europe, has long fascinated scholars. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, researchers delved into archival sources and studied extant tapestries to produce sweeping introductions to the medium. The study of tapestry, however, fell outside mainstream art history, with tapestry too often seen as a less important “decorative art” rather than a “fine art.” , Also, tapestry did not fit easily into an art history that prioritized one master, as the making of a set of large-scale tapestries required a team of collaborators, including the designer, cartoon painters, and weavers, as well as a producer/entrepreneur and, often, a patron. Scholarship on European tapestries in the Early Modern period, nevertheless, flourished. By the late 20th century art historians turned attention to the “decorative arts” and tapestry specialists produced exciting new research illuminating aspects of design, production, and patronage, as well as tapestry’s crucial role in the larger narrative of art and cultural history. In 2002, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s landmark exhibition and catalogue, Tapestry in the Renaissance: Art and Magnificence, spotlighted the art form, introduced it to a broad audience, and brought new understanding of tapestry as art. A sequel, the Met’s 2007 exhibition and catalogue, Tapestry in the Baroque: Threads of Splendor, followed. Other major museums presented ambitious exhibitions, accompanied by catalogues with substantial new research. In addition, from the late 20th century, institutions have produced complete catalogues of their extraordinary European tapestry holdings, among them: the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York; the Patrimonio Nacional in Spain; the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam; the Art Institute of Chicago; and the Burrell Collection in Glasgow. At the same time, articles and books exploring specific designs, designers, producers, and patrons appeared, with some monographs published in the dedicated series, Studies in Western Tapestry, edited by leading scholars Guy Delmarcel and Koenraad Brosens, and produced by Brepols. Tapestry research has often focused on the works of well-known designers and their exceptionally innovative work, such as the artists Raphael (b. 1483–d. 1520) or Peter Paul Rubens (b. 1577–d. 1640). High-quality production at major centers, including Brussels or at the Gobelins Manufactory in France, has also captured scholars’ attention, as have important patrons, among them Henry VIII of England (b. 1491–d. 1547) or Louis XIV of France (b. 1638–d. 1715). Newer directions for research include the contributions of women as weavers and entrepreneurs, the practice of reweaving designs, and the international reach and appeal of Renaissance and Baroque tapestry beyond Europe.


Author(s):  
Alex Britton

CHARACTERIZATION, REVISIONISM AND MISREPRESENTATION IN THE FILMS OF JULIAN SCHNABEL A few years ago after viewing the 2007 film The Diving Bell and the Butterfly, the third film by contemporary director and (former) star painter Julian Schnabel, a friend of New York Review of Books writer Sanford Schwartz prophetically announced to the critic, "Apparently it's easier to make a great movie than a great painting."(1) Indeed, Schnabel's ascension to art stardom has taken a truly enigmatic path. Initially conjuring his success as a painter within the elitist landscape of the late 20th century New York City art market, today we find Schnabel strutting down the red carpet of the Cannes and Toronto international film festivals after writing and directing three films while armed with seemingly zero experience in the field of filmmaking or screenwriting. As a painter, Schnabel's work is largely classified as "Neo-Expressionist", belonging to Postmodernism's timely...


2021 ◽  
pp. 25-43
Author(s):  
Gwynne Mapes

This chapter begins with an explanation of “elite authenticity” in full, including a definition of the five rhetorical strategies of which it is composed: historicity, simplicity, lowbrow appreciation, pioneer spirit, and locality/sustainability. Using theories pertaining to media discourse and mediatization, the author presents an analysis of the New York Times food section, relying on a corpus of 259 articles (including restaurant reviews and top-viewed articles). Throughout her analysis she demonstrates how the aforementioned interconnected rhetorical strategies are not only indexical of what is considered “authentic” in contemporary society, but also essential to the construction of status based on a purposeful distancing from traditional markers of eliteness. In sum, this chapter sets the groundwork for the simultaneous (dis)avowal of distinction which is integral to contemporary class maintenance.


2000 ◽  
Vol 49 (1) ◽  
pp. 131-165 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kyu Ho Youm

Three Korean women won $75,000 in damages in a libel action against the American-owned Newsweek, Inc. in Seoul for publication of a defamatory photo and a caption in the Pacific edition of Newsweek. A Singapore judge awarded former Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew of Singapore and two others a §678,000 damage award against the International Herald Tribune, owned by the New York Times Co. and the Washington Post Co., for libel relating to an editorial-page column about the “dynastic politics” in the island nation.


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