A fixed point approach to superposition of two wave trains in deep water: wave profiles with nonlinear amplitude dispersion

2006 ◽  
Vol 1 (4) ◽  
pp. 279-287 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. S. Jang
1999 ◽  
Vol 401 ◽  
pp. 55-84 ◽  
Author(s):  
TAKUJI WASEDA ◽  
MARSHALL P. TULIN

An experimental investigation on the initial instability of nonlinear deep-water wave trains including wind effects is reported. The experiment was conducted at the Ocean Engineering Laboratory wind-wave facility (50 m long, 4.2 m wide, 2.1 m deep), with a fully computer-controlled mechanical wave generator to explore the parameter space: steepness; sideband frequency; wind speed. The estimated growth rates of the Benjamin–Feir instability from seeded wind-free experiments agreed well with the theoretical prediction derived from Krasitskii's four-wave reduced equation as computed here. Wind was added to the same wave system; the growth rates of the sidebands were reduced for weak, and enhanced for strong wind forcing. Experiments with naturally selected sidebands, i.e. unseeded, were conducted as well; measurements showed that wind did not inhibit the growth of sidebands in the case of either two-dimensional or three-dimensional instabilities. A comparison of the results with earlier work suggests that there are two independent effects of wind: first, the alteration of the inviscid growth for a given modulational frequency as shown by comparison with the seeded experiments without wind; second, a change in the natural modulational frequency appearing in the presence of wind which is a function of the wave age, as observed in unseeded experiments. Both effects combined will determine whether the modulational instability is enhanced or suppressed; comparison of experimental results with theoretical predictions suggests that the effect of wind on the natural selection of the modulational frequency is the dominant effect. It was shown that for moderate to old waves, the net effect of wind on the modulational instability is small. For all the experiments except a few unseeded cases with weak breakers, the modulation was small and no breaking was observed within the tank.


2021 ◽  
Vol 144 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuzhu Li ◽  
David R. Fuhrman

Abstract Instabilities of deep-water wave trains subject to initially small perturbations (which then grow exponentially) can lead to extreme waves in offshore regions. The present study focuses on the two-dimensional Benjamin–Feir (or modulational) instability and the three-dimensional crescent (or horseshoe) waves, also known as Class I and Class II instabilities, respectively. Numerical studies on Class I and Class II wave instabilities to date have been mostly limited to models founded on potential flow theory; thus, they could only properly investigate the process from initial growth of the perturbations to the initial breaking point. The present study conducts numerical simulations to investigate the generation and development of wave instabilities involving the wave breaking process. A computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a turbulence closure model in terms of the Reynolds stress model is applied. Wave form evolutions, Fourier amplitudes, and the turbulence beneath the broken waves are investigated.


Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma

New experimental data for the evolution of deep-water wave packets has been presented. The present experimental data shows that the local maximum steepness for extreme waves is significantly above the criterion of the limiting Stokes waves. The wavelet spectra of the wave groups around the breaking locations indicate that the energy of higher harmonics can be generated quickly before wave breaking and mainly concentrate at the part of the wave fronts. After wave breaking, however, these higher harmonics energy is dissipated immediately. Furthermore, the variations of local peak frequency have also been examined. It is found that frequency downshift increases with the increase of initial steepness and wave packet size.


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