LONGSHORE DRIFT RATES AND DIRECTIONS ALONG THE CARMEL COAST

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
JONATHAN KEMP
Keyword(s):  
2019 ◽  
Vol 11 (1) ◽  
pp. 961-968
Author(s):  
Johanna-Iisebel Järvelill

Abstract Narva-Jõesuu lies at the eastern southeastern coast of the Gulf of Finland, at the Estonian and Russian border. The beach is influenced by heavy winds, waves and drift ice attacks, which are seriously changing the beach. It is the longest sandy beach in Estonia and longshore drift on this beach has induced favorable conditions for the separation of heavy minerals. The aims of the study were to describe the development of the coast, discuss the influence of the destructed pier, and to identify the mineral composition of beach sands. The dynamics of the coast were mainly through comparison with older topographic maps (from the beginning of the 20th century). For mineral analysis the immersion method was applied. The heavy mineral content was found to increase from east to west. The pier was built in Narva-Jõesuu in 1987/88 for protecting the coast, but it is now broken. Consequently, storms are crashing against the coast and erosion of the sandy shore has started. Therefore, the pier should be restored to avoid further beach destruction.


2001 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 5 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. POULOS ◽  
G. CHRONIS

Coastal configuration depends upon the equilibrium between available sediment budget and prevailing nearshore wave and current conditions. Human activities often disturb this natural equilibrium by altering the sources of beach material and littoral drift pattern. In the coastal zone of NW Peloponnese, an essentially tideless environment, the oblique approach of wind-induced waves implies an overall longshore drift from east to west. On an annual basis, the potential longshore sediment transport rates at the different sections of the study area (Kato Achaia) is estimated to vary between 0.02 10-3 m3/s and 5 103 m3/s and to fluctuate seasonally. The construction of a port and the extraction of aggregates from the R. Peiros have changed significantly the pattern of sediment transport inducing dramatic changes on coastline configuration; thus, the part of the coastline west to the port had retreated as much as 70 m eliminating a touristic beach, while the entrance of the port was silted inhibiting navigation. Coastal engineering measures, such as modification of port-breakwaters and construction of groins have had only minimal contribution in beach recovery. Hence, coastal management plans should consider this dynamic equilibrium and protect the natural coastal system from the arbitrary human activities.


2007 ◽  
Vol 240 (1-4) ◽  
pp. 137-150 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ana Silva ◽  
Rui Taborda ◽  
Aurora Rodrigues ◽  
João Duarte ◽  
João Cascalho

2006 ◽  
Vol 66 (2) ◽  
pp. 303-310 ◽  
Author(s):  
John S. Compton

AbstractThe radiocarbon ages of mollusc shells from the Bogenfels Pan on the hyper arid southern coast of Namibia provide constraints on the Holocene evolution of sea level and in particular, the mid-Holocene highstand. The Bogenfels Pan was flooded to depths of 3 m above mean sea level (amsl) to form a large subtidal lagoon from 7300 to 6500 calibrated radiocarbon years before present (cal yr BP). The mollusc assemblage of the wave sheltered lagoon includes Nassarius plicatellus, Lutraria lutraria, and the bivalves Solen capensis and Gastrana matadoa, both of which no longer live along the wave-dominated southern Namibian coast. The radiocarbon ages of mollusc shell from a gravely beach deposit exposed in a diamond exploration trench indicate that sea level fell to near or 1 m below its present-day position between 6500 and 4900 cal yr BP. The rapid emergence of the pan between 6500 and 4900 cal yr BP exceeds that predicted by glacio-isostatic models and may indicate a 3-m eustatic lowering of sea level. The beach deposits at Bogenfels indicate that sea level rose to 1 m amsl between 4800 and 4600 cal yr BP and then fell briefly between 4600 and 4200 cal yr BP before returning to 1 m amsl. Since 4200 cal yr BP sea level has remained within one meter of the present-day level and the beach at Bogenfels has prograded seaward from the delayed arrival of sand by longshore drift from the Orange River. A 6200 cal yr BP coastal midden and a 600 cal yr BP midden 1.7 km from the coast indicate sporadic human utilization of the area. The results of this study are consistent with previous studies and help to refine the Holocene sea-level record for southern Africa.


Author(s):  
Von Axel Frhr ◽  
Von Erffa

The coast of Northern Colombia between Barranquilla and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta has been subject to swift morphological alterations in the near geological past. The Magdalena River mouth into the Caribbean Sea is actually in the western end of the region and has formed deltas in three phases during the recent Quaternary. The two older ones were destroyed by erosion ad can only be detected by submarine morphology. The second phase is represented by a delta, that reached its widest dimensions approximately 2.400 years ago. The then starting destruction continues untill today and is not yet finished. The recent mouth foresets the youngest delta of the Magdalena River. A westbound longshore current along the not always even shoreline is produced by north-eastern tradewinds. This current transports the eroded sediments of the second oldest delta to the mouth of the Magdalena River. Part of them helps to build its new delta, and part of them glides through submarine cañons to the deep sea. Besides the morphological evidence, sedimentary analysis of the shore sands shows: 1. a longshore drift of sediments from east to west. 2. a change in the balance of energy: sedimentation in the east; erosion in the west (placers of heavy minerals). The very important highway from Barranquilla to Santa Marta ist thus endangered by erosion in the near future. 3. the sources of the upper sedimentlayers in the shore area: in the oldest delta their provenance is the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta; in the younger deltas the area of affluents of the Magdalena River.


Author(s):  
John S. Gray ◽  
Michael Elliott

Our next major question is, how can we characterize the sediment as a habitat for biota? Marine sediments range from coarse gravels in areas subjected to much wave and current action, to muds typical of low-energy estuarine areas and to fine silts and clays in deep-sea sediments. The settling velocity of those particles and the ability of any particle to be re-suspended, moved, and redeposited depends on the prevailing hydrographic regime (e.g. see Open University 2002). The latter will in turn influence the transport of a species´ dispersal stages, especially larvae which will then be allowed to settle following metamorphosis under the appropriate hydrographic conditions (defined as hydrographic concentration). Hence the presence of fine sediments will indicate the depositing/accreting areas which may also be suitable for passively settling organisms. Clearly the particle size is of major importance in characterizing sediments, although sediments can also be categorized by their origin (fluvial, biogenic, cosmogenic, etc.) and their material (quartz, carbonates, clays, etc.) (Open University 2002). On a typical sandy beach the coarsest particles lie at the top of the beach and grade down to the finest sediments at the waterline. The top of the beach is dry and there is much windblown sand, since coarse sands drain rapidly, whereas at the lower end of the beach the sediments are wet, with frequent standing pools. Coarse sediment is found at the top of the shore because as the waves break on the beach the heaviest particles sediment out first. Finer particles remain in suspension longer and are carried seaward on the wave backwash. Beaches change their slope over the seasons, being steeper in winter and shallower in summer. A greater degree of wave energy will produce steeper beaches, as particles are pushed up the beach and so may be stored there, whereas gentle waves produce shallow, sloping beaches. Waves hitting the shore obliquely will create sediment movement as longshore drift. Subtidally, waves are important in distributing and affecting sediments down to depths of 100 m, but the effect decreases exponentially with depth and so the dominant subtidal influences on sediment transport are currents.


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