Implication of Shoreline and Nearshore Morphological Changes on Sediment Budget of Wave-Dominated Chennai Beach, India

The study examines the shoreline (1990-2019) and nearshore morphological changes (seasonal) to understand the littoral drift and sediment budget variability. Shoreline change rate depicts erosion (-0.06 m/yr) in the northern sector and accretion (+0.12 m/yr) in the southern sector. Seasonal nearshore morphological changes from non-monsoon to monsoon period signifies net erosion (-1.8x10^4 m^3 ) in northern sector and net accretion (+2.5x10^4 m^3) in the southern sector. Although the lost sediment during monsoon is regained in non-monsoon period, the quantity of sediment gain is reduced in areas with human interventions. The results of the investigation depict the dominance of littoral drift towards north from February to October, when wave approach from east-southeast to south-southeast direction and southwards from November to January when the wave direction was from east-northeast to east-southeast. The net longshore sediment transport rate estimated during the study period was 2.6x10^5 m^3/year in the northern sector and 1.5x10^5 m^3/year in the southern sector with higher rate attributed to monsoon than the non-monsoon. Sediment budget results in deciphering the causes of erosion (-1.27×10^4 m^3/yr) in northern sector and accretion (3.91×10^4 m^3/yr) in southern sector in the wave-dominated Chennai beach.

Decadal Shoreline Stability in Eastbourne, Wellington Harbour

<p>Mixed Sand and Gravel (MSG) Beach research in recent decades has overwhelmingly focussed on open-oceanic environments, however, those found in fetch limited settings remain poorly understood. This thesis has examined spatial and temporal morphological change through such a system in Eastbourne, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand. This site has only recently prograded following several decades of erosion. This accretion has been the result of a northward migrating gravel front, which is introducing gravel sized sediment into the previously sandy system resulting in significant changes in beach morphology and volume. The aim of this study is to quantify these spatial and temporal changes and to assess shoreline stability on a decadal timescale. Additionally it aims to ascertain whether the current progradation is a long term change to the system or the result of a short term sediment increase. This assessment has been conducted in the form of topographic surveying, grain size and aerial photograph analysis. The topographic surveying and grain size analysis provides an accurate description of beach morphology. This is compared to the established MSG beach morphology models for the open coast, but operating on a smaller scale because of the lower energy fetch-limited environment of the study area. Aerial photograph analysis is used to show the longer term changes in beach width and the northern migration of the gravel fraction of the sediment supply regime. The spatial analysis results show that the beach morphology is highly variable. In the embayments that are more exposed to oceanic swell waves beach profiles are broad and steep, and in the beaches in the northern sections of the coastline which are more sheltered from oceanic swell waves, profiles are flat and narrow. The temporal results show that the coastal accretion observed through the study area has been initially rapid, followed by sustained increased beach width. These results suggest that the morphological variation on this coastline is part of a long term adjustment to a change in sediment supply, initiated by tectonic uplift and subsequently driven by longshore sediment transport. The observed mechanism of longshore transport has been suggested to be a function of sediment properties, relative wave energy and bathymetry/topography. The findings of this research are used to develop a conceptual model of shoreline evolution for the study area in response to changes that have occurred over the last 154 years.</p>

Decadal Shoreline Stability in Eastbourne, Wellington Harbour

<p>Mixed Sand and Gravel (MSG) Beach research in recent decades has overwhelmingly focussed on open-oceanic environments, however, those found in fetch limited settings remain poorly understood. This thesis has examined spatial and temporal morphological change through such a system in Eastbourne, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand. This site has only recently prograded following several decades of erosion. This accretion has been the result of a northward migrating gravel front, which is introducing gravel sized sediment into the previously sandy system resulting in significant changes in beach morphology and volume. The aim of this study is to quantify these spatial and temporal changes and to assess shoreline stability on a decadal timescale. Additionally it aims to ascertain whether the current progradation is a long term change to the system or the result of a short term sediment increase. This assessment has been conducted in the form of topographic surveying, grain size and aerial photograph analysis. The topographic surveying and grain size analysis provides an accurate description of beach morphology. This is compared to the established MSG beach morphology models for the open coast, but operating on a smaller scale because of the lower energy fetch-limited environment of the study area. Aerial photograph analysis is used to show the longer term changes in beach width and the northern migration of the gravel fraction of the sediment supply regime. The spatial analysis results show that the beach morphology is highly variable. In the embayments that are more exposed to oceanic swell waves beach profiles are broad and steep, and in the beaches in the northern sections of the coastline which are more sheltered from oceanic swell waves, profiles are flat and narrow. The temporal results show that the coastal accretion observed through the study area has been initially rapid, followed by sustained increased beach width. These results suggest that the morphological variation on this coastline is part of a long term adjustment to a change in sediment supply, initiated by tectonic uplift and subsequently driven by longshore sediment transport. The observed mechanism of longshore transport has been suggested to be a function of sediment properties, relative wave energy and bathymetry/topography. The findings of this research are used to develop a conceptual model of shoreline evolution for the study area in response to changes that have occurred over the last 154 years.</p>

Toward a Better Understanding of Sediment Dynamics as a Basis for Maintenance Dredging in Nagan Raya Port, Indonesia

The Port of 2 × 110 MW Nagan Raya Coal Fired Steam Power Plant is one of the facilities constructed by the State Electricity Company in Aceh Province, Indonesia. During its operation, which began in 2013, the port has dealt with large amounts of sedimentation within the port and ship entrances. The goal of this study is to mitigate the sedimentation problem in the Nagan Raya port by evaluating the effect of maintenance dredging. Field measurements, and hydrodynamic and sediment transport modeling analysis, were conducted during this study. Evaluation of the wind data showed that the dominant wind direction is from south to west. Based on the analysis of the wave data, the dominant wave direction is from the south to the west. Therefore, the wave-induced currents in the surf zone were from south to north. Based on the analysis of longshore sediment transport, the supply of sediments to Nagan Raya port was estimated to be around 40,000–60,000 m3 per year. Results from the sediment model showed that sedimentation of up to 1 m was captured in areas of the inlet channel of Nagan Raya port. The use of a passing system for sand is one of the sedimentation management solutions proposed in this study. The dredged sediment material around the navigation channel was dumped in a dumping area in the middle of the sea at a depth of 11 m, with a distance of 1.5 km from the shoreline. To obtain a greater maximum result, the material disposal distance should be dumped further away, at least at a depth of 20 m or a distance of 20 miles from the coastline.

Morphodynamics and Evolution of Estuarine Sandspits along the Bight of Benin Coast, West Africa

It is well known that estuarine systems are significantly affected by hydrodynamic conditions such as river discharge, storm surges, waves and tidal conditions. In addition to this, human interferences through developmental projects have the capability of disrupting the natural morphological processes occurring at estuaries. In West Africa, the goal to improve standards of living through large-scale dam construction, offshore ports and coastal erosion countermeasures has triggered alarming changes in the morphodynamics of estuarine systems. The estuaries at the Volta River mouth (Ghana) and “Bouche du Roi” inlet (Benin), located along the Bight of Benin coast, West Africa, were selected as two case study sites to examine their long-term morphodynamics and sandspit evolution. In this study, we primarily analyzed estuarine morphology using remotely sensed images acquired from 1984 to 2020. We further estimated the longshore sediment transport for this region using results from the image analysis and the depth of active sediment motion. Our results reveal that the longshore sediment transport rates for this region are in the magnitude of 105–106 m3/year. Comparative analysis with other estuaries and sandy coasts suggests that the longshore sediment transport along this coast has one of the largest rates estimated in the world.

The sagging shape of shoreline formed on downdrift side of the structures due to seasonal oblique wave incidence

Downdrift coastal erosion has occurred at natural or man-made groynes on Korea’s eastern coast, caused by oblique high waves in winter months. The resulting shoreline planform has a sagging shape with a maximum indentation point within the eroded shoreline. This study focused on solving the frequent and severe coastal erosion problem of this type at the Jeongdongjin review of wave data over 40 years from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), as well as analyzing shoreline monitoring images for identifying the yielding line of maximum indentation points. An analytical method was developed to verify the eroding shoreline in a sagging shape and its maximum indentation by applying the conservation principle of sediment transport and the empirical model of equilibrium shoreline. To examine how well the empirical formula is suitable for the Jeongdongjin coast, the annual directional spectrum of the observed wave data was applied to the simple diffraction wave model for the gamma breakwater, and satisfactory agreement was obtained by comparing it with the shoreline results. Breaking wave height and angle, duration, longshore sediment transport coefficient, and protruding length of the groyne were the inputs. The theoretical results are in good agreement with those of the shoreline monitoring program. The factors mitigating downdrift coastal erosion of this type were identified by applying the obtained theoretical solution, and the engineering solutions were examined via factor analysis.

Holocene evolution of a barrier-spit complex and the interaction of tidal and wave processes, Inskip Peninsula, SE Queensland, Australia

This paper presents a reconstruction of the Holocene evolution of the Inskip Peninsula in SE Queensland. The peninsula links two major dune fields, the Cooloola Sand Mass to the south and K’gari (Fraser Island) to the north. Geomorphic features of this peninsula include remnant parabolic dunes, numerous beach ridges with foredunes, and a series of spits. Together these features provide insight into Holocene coastal evolution and changing marine conditions. A remnant beach ridge/foredune complex at the northern portion of Inskip may have been connected to K’gari and a river/tidal channel near Rainbow Beach township which separated it from the Cooloola Sand Mass to the south. This channel avulsed northward in the early mid-Holocene (after 8.8 ka) with spit development from the south. This was followed by a phase of beach-ridge/foredune complex development that started by ~6.7 ka. Stratigraphic evidence from the highest and best developed parabolic dunes in the northern portion of Inskip Peninsula indicates dune development from the mid-Holocene beach complex by 4.8 ka. Beach ridges with foredunes continued to prograde but notably declined in size during the late-Holocene. In the latest Holocene (<4.8 ka) many of the late-Holocene beach ridges/foredune complexes have been truncated by a re-orientation of the shoreline and longshore sediment transport has promoted the growth of the modern spit at the northern end of the peninsula. Erosive and longshore processes continue to be highly active because of tidal interactions between Great Sandy Strait and the Coral Sea. This detailed study of Inskip Peninsula’s evolution aids significantly in future coastal management decisions, and provides evidence for World Heritage Area extension for the Cooloola Sand Mass, including the incorporation of Inskip Peninsula itself. It also contributes to the global understanding to coastal evolution in an area of strong wave and tidal interaction.