Environmental magnetism evidence for longshore drift distribution of Fe-bearing phases: An example from the Brazilian southeastern coastal region

ABSTRACT The accumulation of heavy minerals along a part of the southeastern Brazilian coast (northern coast of Rio de Janeiro State, Brazil) provides insight into sedimentary provenance and transport by longshore drift. In particular, recent work has focused on heavy minerals as tracers to determine sedimentary sources and transport pathways, indicating a mineral distribution according to the northward and southward coastal transport cells. There is also evidence of heavy-mineral transport by the Paraíba do Sul River. However, research has not been done in this area on the opaque fraction (iron oxides and oxyhydroxides), which are good tracers for provenance and distribution processes. Here we intend to: 1) characterize the spatial variation of the magnetic properties of heavy-mineral contents throughout a coastal area of the Itabapoana and Paraíba do Sul River mouths (state of Rio de Janeiro), 2) evaluate the contribution of coastal dynamics on the mineral distribution along this coastal area, 3) provide contributions on the provenance of iron-bearing minerals. Results indicate that a bimodal pattern was observed for the magnetic remanence of magnetite and hematite near the Paraíba do Sul River. For the northernmost section, goethite exhibits a gradual increase in concentration towards the central part of the study area. Additionally, higher heavy-mineral content is observed at the northern coastal section, which may be related to coastal morphology, which is exposed to high-energy beach processes. It is possible to verify three sampling groups in accordance with their magnetic properties: 1) the “southernmost” and 2) the “northernmost” groups, suggesting a mineral provenance related to the Paraíba do Sul and Itabapoana rivers, respectively, as possible major sources, and 3) another at the intermediate section of the area, possibly linked to the erosion of the Barreiras Formation bluffs. Results also show a correspondence between the variability of magnetic parameters and the main directions of the coastal transport cells.

Four-Dimensional Investigation of Gravel Beach Ridge Accretion and 50 Years of Beach Recharge at Dungeness, UK, Using Historic Images, GPR and Lidar (HIGL)

Dungeness is a cuspate foreland on the south coast of England that is the largest shingle feature in Europe and includes hundreds of beach ridges. It is also the location of two nuclear power stations that were constructed in the 1960s. The dominant southwest waves cause longshore drift from west to east, eroding the southwest side of Dungeness, accompanied by accretion on the east side. A record of this eastward movement and sediment accretion is preserved by the shingle beach ridges. The power stations are located on the eroding southwestern side of the ness, and a system of beach recharge has been used to move shingle from the downdrift, east-facing shore to the updrift, southwest-facing shore to protect the power stations from coastal erosion. We use a novel combination of historic images, ground-penetrating radar (GPR), and Lidar (HIGL) to investigate accretion and beach ridges at Dungeness during the past 80 years. We report changes in accretion along the coast and use GPR to determine the thickness of beach gravels. The amount of accretion, represented by the width of the backshore, decreases downdrift from south to north. The number of beach ridges preserved also decreases from south to north. By combining the shingle thickness from GPR with elevation data from Lidar surveys and records of beach accretion measured from aerial images, we estimate the volume and mass of gravel that has accumulated at Dungeness. Historic rates of beach accretion are similar to recent rates, suggesting that the 55 years of beach recharge have had little impact on the longer-term accretion downdrift.

THE ROLE OF GEOTEXTILE TUBE AS LOW-CRESTED BREAKWATERS IN RESTORING SEVERE BEACH EROSION PROBLEM AT PEBUAHAN BEACH IN BALI ISLAND

Pebuahan Beach in Jembrana Regency, Bali has experienced severe beach erosion since the construction of the Nusantara Pengambengan fishing port, 10 km east of Pebuahan. Efforts to countermeasure the coastal problem has been carried out by many local residents, but failed due to strong longshore drift. Through a collaboration between the Research Center for Water Resources, the Bali Penida River Basin, and PT. Geotechnical Systemindo, the implementation of low-crested breakwaters (LCB) or PEGAR, made of Woven Geotextile Tubes was initiated. Four woven geotextile tubes C12.9 m with length varied from 20 m to 25 m were installed to form LCB with the length of 60 m, at distance to the coast of 50 m. The monitoring of shoreline changes was conducted over the 3 months after its installation, which shows the formation of a new shoreline with the amount of deposited sand of 185.8 m3. The breaking wave on LCB crest results in successfully controlling the longshore current, hence the longshore drift settles behind the LCB to form a new coastline. It is expected this field study can be treated as an additional input to improve LCB Guideline and to expand LCB effectiveness scope not only apply to shallow wave conditions and beaches such as on North coast of Java, but also can be applied more universally to a deeper coastal waters with high wave conditions.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/AFzvkvYY2Do

Analysis of Longshore Drift Patterns on the Littoral System of Nusa Dua Beach in Bali, Indonesia

Bali is one of the most popular tourist areas in Indonesia. With its coastline stretching 633 km, Bali has many beautiful beaches that have become world tourism attractions, thus making tourism the economic engine of Bali. The biggest priority of major tourism sites is maintaining sufficient beach width. However, based on a survey from Balai Wilayah Sungai (BWS) Bali Penida, Bali has suffered from a series of erosions along 215 km of its coastline, including Nusa Dua, in 2015. The location of the study area for this report is a 2.8 km stretch of coastline at Nusa Dua Beach. The erosion problem at Nusa Dua Beach was assessed by analyzing the longshore drift patterns. Simulations are required to assess this erosion problem, combined with the erosion rate and the simulated equilibrium shoreline for each sublittoral cell. To estimate the erosion rate, this study employed profile monitoring data of the beach obtained from 2003 to 2016. This advanced study was based on the mass conservation principle as a governing equation used to predict longshore drifts between sublittoral cells. The satellite image for every sublittoral cell was also used to check the equilibrium condition and estimate the predominant wave direction as the shoreline orientation. Nusa Dua Beach was found to suffer from the change of wave direction and the consequent generation of littoral drift after the reclamation project of Serangan Island located north of the Benoa strait. The correlation between the transportation of longshore sediments and the predominant wave direction indicates the effect of longshore drift in the system. The groin system also created a unique longshore transport pattern in the coastal area. The results obtained in this study can help manage the longshore drift system of Nusa Dua Beach and can be used to predict the beach area subject to erosion and deposition after every beach conservation project. Hence, a strategic plan for managing the shore target lines can be formulated.

Impact of cliff erosion on marine sediment composition - indication of local coastline evolution (Vrgada Island, Croatia)

Erosive coastal cliffs formed in soft-rocks sediments along the generally carbonaceous Eastern Adriatic are a rare feature. The one from the Vrgada Island gave rise to the idea that local seabed surface sediment may reflect the composition of the cliff sediment. First results of sedimentological analyses showed that sediment samples collected on both sides of the cliff contain material eroded mostly from the eastern side of the cliff. Subsequent longshore drift caused by dominant waves likely sort fallen material, transporting its finer fractions to the northern side and further into the sea.

Development of the Narva-Jõesuu beach, mineral composition of beach deposits and destruction of the pier, southeastern coast of the Gulf of Finland

Narva-Jõesuu lies at the eastern southeastern coast of the Gulf of Finland, at the Estonian and Russian border. The beach is influenced by heavy winds, waves and drift ice attacks, which are seriously changing the beach. It is the longest sandy beach in Estonia and longshore drift on this beach has induced favorable conditions for the separation of heavy minerals. The aims of the study were to describe the development of the coast, discuss the influence of the destructed pier, and to identify the mineral composition of beach sands. The dynamics of the coast were mainly through comparison with older topographic maps (from the beginning of the 20th century). For mineral analysis the immersion method was applied. The heavy mineral content was found to increase from east to west. The pier was built in Narva-Jõesuu in 1987/88 for protecting the coast, but it is now broken. Consequently, storms are crashing against the coast and erosion of the sandy shore has started. Therefore, the pier should be restored to avoid further beach destruction.

A Multifaceted Approach for Determining Sediment Provenance to Coastal Shipping Channels

Maintenance dredging for shipping channels is required to maintain safe and efficient navigational channels and berths in ports around the world. Sediment that refills dredged channels can enter ports via alluvial transport of eroded materials from upstream and adjacent catchments, from marine transport due to tidal currents and wind driven currents and from longshore drift. Identifying the provenance of sediment infilling navigational channels allows port operators to mitigate and manage sediment transport, potentially reducing dredging requirements and costs. Further, understanding sediment sources can inform options for beneficial reuse or disposal of dredged sediments. A multi-faceted approach was used to assess whether sediment provenance in the Port of Gladstone could be characterized. A combination of particle size analysis, rare earth element composition, carbon stable isotope ratios, strontium isotopes, and beryllium-7 radioisotopes was employed. Samples were collected at accumulation locations within the navigational channel. Potential sediment sources were sampled from sites of longshore drift to the south of the Port of Gladstone, and intertidal sand and mud representative of transport from currents. Fluvial sediment samples were collected during dry and wet season conditions and from the three main local catchments. Potential source sediment samples yielded identifiable differences with respect to rare earth elements, while beryllium-7 isotope analysis indicated recent deposition of sediments from mudflats or catchment within the channels. The approach used here provided insights into the source of recently deposited sediments to the dredged channels, enabling managers to make informed decisions on mitigation and management strategies.