A NUMERICAL MODEL OF WAVE DEFORMATION IN SURF ZONE
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A numerical model is presented for nearshore wave deformation due to shoaling and breaking, and to decay and recovery in the surf zone. The model is based on a set of time-dependent mild slope equations including a term of wave energy dissipation caused by breaking. Its applicability is demonstrated by comparisons between the computations and the measurements of cross-shore distributions of the wave height and potential energy over typical beach configurations.
2004 ◽
Vol 31
(8-9)
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pp. 1083-1092
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2015 ◽
Vol 120
(6)
◽
pp. 3937-3957
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1993 ◽
Vol 93
(4)
◽
pp. 2418-2418
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