Characterizing the Mechanism of Action of Essential Oils on Skin Homeostasis—Data from Sonographic Imaging, Epidermal Water Dynamics, and Skin Biomechanics

Essential oils (EOs) have been recognized as materials of interest for dermatological applications, although some doubts remain regarding their safety and efficacy. We studied the action mechanisms of EOs from lavender and sage in human skin. Extracted EOs were incorporated (at 5% and 10%) in almond oil as a vehicle. Eleven healthy volunteers were selected and the prepared oils were tested on both forearms. All procedures respected the principles of good clinical practice. Effects were followed through high resolution sonography (HRS), epidermal water dynamics, and biomechanics. All variables were measured before and 30 min after application. Nonparametric statistical comparisons were applied (p < 0.05). HRS revealed a more echogenic epidermis, with a significant echogenicity decrease in the dermis (higher water retention) for all formulations. Significant TEWL decrease and an increase in superficial and deep epidermal hydration were also observed. These results indicate that EOs penetrate only into the most superficial layers of the skin, which is important for their safety profile. Furthermore, this “filmogenic” mechanism improving the epidermal water balance seems to connect directly with the observed biomechanical enhancement. These results confirm the clinical relevance of these compounds, in particular to restore the epidermal water content and prevent xerosis and other related disorders in sensitive (atopic, elderly) patients.

Spirals, Scalp Whorls and Skin Biomechanics: Nature’s Own Design For Expansion

This paper began as an exercise in curiosity – logarithmic spiral designs abound in nature ‐‐ in galaxies, flowers, pinecones and on human scalps as whorls. Why are humans the only primates to have whorls on the scalp? Is the formation of scalp whorls mechanical or genetic? A mechanical theory has long been postulated– the mechanical theory suggests that hair whorl patterning is determined by the tension on the epidermis during rapid expansion of the cranium while the hair follicle is growing downwards – however, this has never before been experimentally proven conclusively. We found, that under certain conditions, we were able to experimentally recreate spirals on the scalp to demonstrate that the basis of scalp whorls is indeed mechanical – and that logarithmic spirals are indeed nature’s own design for rapid expansion of organic tissues. Given our experiments only created whorls when certain conditions were satisfied (and not in others), they have given us great insight into the mechanical formation of skin whorls and the physiology of skin stretch. We believe that these findings will lead to many more advances in understanding skin dynamics and indeed the behavior of any living tissue when confronted by stretch. As a corollary, the application of the results of these studies have led us to the discovery of a new surgical technique for closure of scalp defects using the golden spiral pattern, and this will be the subject of a separate paper.