Even m shallow water, only a part of wave energy is lost by turbulent viscosity and bottom friction, most of wave energy transfer takes place m the narrow zone of surf at the shore. Till to the point of breaking, the theoretical conception of an one-phase flow may be applied to the problem. From beginning of breaking, however, the effect of aeration can not be neglected. Prom a simple physical consideration, the sudden reduction of wave height and wave energy inside the surf zone can be explained by the entrainment of air bubbles into the water. Except compression and surface tension effects, most of wave energy is stored at first by the static energy of the air bubbles which are driven into the water. Using idealized assumptions for calculation (uniform concentration of air bubbles a.s.o.), it can be shown that m a plunging breaker the wave energy is dissipated on a very short way (less than on wave length), for a spilling breaker however, this way is of the order of some wave lengths.
AIE ENTRAINMENT AND ENERGY DISSIPATION IN BREAKERS