Interaction of Water Waves and Currents

Author(s):  
D.H. Peregrine
1981 ◽  
Vol 59 (12) ◽  
pp. 2595-2602 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anita M. Payne ◽  
M. A. Maun

Cakile edentula (Bigel) Hook var. lacustris occurs abundantly along sandy beaches of Lakes Huron, Erie and Ontario. Until now the species had not been reported to occur along Georgian Bay but we located one population at Deanlea Beach. The deciduous upper fruit segments disperse long distances by water waves and currents and short distances by rolling caused by strong winds. The lower fruit segments usually remain attached to the parents which may be uprooted by high waves and then transported as tumble weeds to new locations. The floatation experiment showed that the agitation of jars containing the fruits improved their floating ability. Agitated upper fruit segments showed a significantly lower sinking index than agitated lower fruit segments and upper and lower fruit segments in the still treatment. The overwintering of fruits improved their floating ability.


1990 ◽  
Vol 1990 (168) ◽  
pp. 193-202
Author(s):  
Hisaaki Maeda ◽  
Koichi Masuda ◽  
Fumio Maruyama ◽  
Yuka Kitakouji

2011 ◽  
Vol 691 ◽  
pp. 1-25 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. M. Moreira ◽  
D. H. Peregrine

AbstractThe effects of nonlinearity on a train of linear water waves in deep water interacting with underlying currents are investigated numerically via a boundary-integral method. The current is assumed to be two-dimensional and stationary, being induced by a distribution of singularities located beneath the free surface, which impose sharp and gentle surface velocity gradients. For ‘slowly’ varying currents, the fully nonlinear results confirm that opposing currents induce wave steepening and breaking within the region where a high convergence of rays occurs. For ‘rapidly’ varying currents, wave blocking and breaking are more prominent. In this case reflection was observed when sufficiently strong adverse currents are imposed, confirming that at least part of the wave energy that builds up within the caustic can be released in the form of partial reflection and wave breaking. For bichromatic waves, the fully nonlinear results show that partial wave blocking occurs at the individual wave components in the wave groups and that waves become almost monochromatic upstream of the blocking region.


1971 ◽  
Vol 1971 (1) ◽  
pp. 489-494 ◽  
Author(s):  
Henry G. Schwartzberg

ABSTRACT The effects of winds, waves, and currents, and the physical properties of oil and water on the drift rates of oil spills were studied in tests carried out in a combined water basin wind tunnel On calm water, oil drifted at a fairly constant percentage of the wind speed regardless of the nature and spreading tendencies of the oil, the spill size, and water temperature, depth, and salinity. Percent drift varied with wind tunnel height. Extrapolation to infinite height indicated that on calm open water wind drift should be 3.7%. Shallow water waves, which produced no significant drift themselves, reduced wind drift. Analysis indicated that deep water waves produced by the wind should produce significant drift, complicating wind drift prediction, but the magnitude of the wind wave interaction effects is not yet known. Test wind drifts and current drifts were found not to be directly additive.


2013 ◽  
Vol 87 (5) ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Toffoli ◽  
T. Waseda ◽  
H. Houtani ◽  
T. Kinoshita ◽  
K. Collins ◽  
...  

Author(s):  
Nobuhiro Matsunaga ◽  
Misao Hashida ◽  
Hiroshi Kawakami

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