Wave Run-Up in Field Measurements with Newly Developed Instrument

Author(s):  
Heie F. Erchinger
Keyword(s):  
Author(s):  
Ulpu Leijala ◽  
Jan-Victor Björkqvist ◽  
Milla M. Johansson ◽  
Havu Pellikka ◽  
Lauri Laakso ◽  
...  

Abstract. Tools for estimating probabilities of flooding hazards caused by the simultaneous effect of sea level and waves are needed for the secure planning of densely populated coastal areas that are strongly vulnerable to climate change. In this paper we present a method for combining location-specific probability distributions of three different components: (1) long-term mean sea level change, (2) short-term sea level variations, and (3) wind-generated waves. We apply the method in two locations in the Helsinki Archipelago to obtain run-up level estimates representing the joint effect of the still water level and the wave run-up. These estimates for the present, 2050 and 2100 are based on field measurements and mean sea level scenarios. In the case of our study locations, the significant locational variability of the wave conditions leads to a difference in the safe building levels of up to one meter. The rising mean sea level in the Gulf of Finland and the uncertainty related to the associated scenarios contribute significantly to the run-up levels for the year 2100. We also present a sensitivity test of the method and discuss its applicability to other coastal regions. Our approach allows for the determining of different building levels based on the acceptable risks for various infrastructure, thus reducing building costs while maintaining necessary safety margins.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 29 ◽  
Author(s):  
Toru Sawaragi ◽  
Koichiro Iwata

This paper discusses the probability distributions of irregular wave run-up height and period on gentle slopes. Assuming that the long period component appeared on the run-up oscillation corresponds to the incident envelope wave period, a nonlinear model to estimate the probability distributions of run-up heights and periods is proposed. Laboratory experiments on gentle slopes of 1/15,1/30 and 1/40, and field measurements on a natural sandy beach with swash slopes of 1/6 to 1/14 were performed to examine the proposed model. The proposed model is shown to agree with the experiments.


2013 ◽  
Vol 6 (2) ◽  
pp. 157-166

Geologic, oceanographic and topographic data and field measurements, of the coastal area in front of Heraklion City, Crete Island, as well as deep sea wave measurements and shallow wave prediction numerical modelling were used for the determination of the 1884 foreshore. Data from numerous drills performed in the coastal area of Heraklion City used for the stratigraphic study of the area. For the calculation of the shallow area wave height, the deep area wave height and wind measurements in the of Cretan Sea were used, as input data of the shallow wave prediction model, taking into account the archive data about the sea bottom bathymetry and the topography of Heraklion area. Then, the maximum wave run up on the coastal area in 1884, which determines the limit of the old foreshore zone was calculated, and the critical requirements of the Act 2971/2001 and the Compulsory Law 2344/1940 "the bigger however unexceptional sea wave run up" were estimated. Finally the innermost limit of the foreshore zone during 1884 was defined, as the 3.5 m level.


Author(s):  
Patrick Oosterlo ◽  
Bas Hofland ◽  
Jentsje W. van der Meer ◽  
Maarten Overduin ◽  
Gosse Jan Steendam

Oosterlo et al. (2019) developed a system using two terrestrial laser scanners, which can measure run-up heights, depths and velocities of waves on a dike in field situations. The system has now been placed next to two overtopping tanks on a dike in the Eems-Dollard estuary in the Netherlands to measure during actual severe winter storms. The goal of the present paper is to further validate this innovative system with data obtained during storm Ciara (10 - 12 February 2020), a severe winter storm with very oblique wave attack. Furthermore, the data gathered during storm Ciara will be compared to the current knowledge on wave overtopping, to possibly gain new insights in the influence of very oblique wave attack on wave overtopping.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/TwSwJuxb-Yo


2012 ◽  
Vol 64 (12) ◽  
pp. 1247-1257 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kazuhisa Goto ◽  
Koji Fujima ◽  
Daisuke Sugawara ◽  
Shigehiro Fujino ◽  
Kentaro Imai ◽  
...  

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (1) ◽  
pp. 287-298 ◽  
Author(s):  
Francesco De Leo ◽  
Giovanni Besio ◽  
Guido Zolezzi ◽  
Marco Bezzi

Abstract. Coastal vulnerability is evaluated against inundation risk triggered by wave run-up through the evaluation of vulnerability levels (referred to as VLs) introduced by Bosom and Jiménez (2011). VLs are assessed through different wave climate characterizations, referring to regional (offshore wave climate) or local (nearshore wave climate) scales. The study is set along the Bay of Lalzit, a coastal area near Durrës (Albania). The analysis reveals that the results vary due to uncertainties inherent in the run-up estimation, showing that the computational procedure should be developed by taking into account detailed information about the local wave climate. Different approaches in choosing wave characteristics for run-up estimation significantly affect the estimate of shoreline vulnerability. The analysis also shows the feasibility and challenges of applying VL estimates in contexts characterized by limited data availability through targeted field measurements of the coast geomorphology and an overall understanding of the recent coastal dynamics and related controlling factors.


Author(s):  
Francesco De Leo ◽  
Giovanni Besio ◽  
Guido Zolezzi ◽  
Marco Bezzi

Abstract. Coastal vulnerability is evaluated against inundation risk triggered by waves run-up, through the employment of coastal vulnerability indexes (referred to as “CVI”) introduced by Bosom García and Jiménez Quintana (2011). CVI are assessed through different wave climate characterizations, referring to regional (offshore wave climate) or local (near-shore wave climate) scale. The study is set along the Lalzit bay, a coastal area nearby Durres (Albania). The analysis reveals that the results vary due to uncertainties inherent in the run-up estimation, showing that the computational procedure should be developed by taking into account detailed information about local wave climate, especially concerning seasonal behaviour and fluctuations. Different approaches in choosing wave characteristics for run-up estimation affect significantly the estimate of shoreline vulnerability. The analysis also shows the feasibility and challenges of applying CVI estimates in contexts characterized by limited data availability, through targeted field measurements of the coast geomorphology and an overall understanding of the recent coastal dynamics and related controlling factors.


1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 43 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heie F. Erchinger

The height of dikes and other coastal structures can only be calculated after determination of the wave run-up. Several formulas for the calculation of wave run-up are developed after model tests as a rule. But the influences of scale effects and natural wind conditions are practically unknown. To clear these questions further investigations and especially field measurements should be carried out. By measuring the markerline of floating trash on the slope of the seadikes the maximum wave run-up could be found out after four storm surges in 1967 and 1973- In two graphs it will be shown that on the tidal flats the run-up depends on the waterdepth. The run-up was higher than it could be expected after model tests of 1954. With a newly developed special echo sounder the run-up could be measured in January 1976. The waves and the run-up could be registrated synchronously during two severe storm surges. As shown in Fig. 9 it was found a logarithmic distribution of the wave height, wave period and the higher part of the wave run-up. The found wave run-up is considerably higher than estimated before. The measured 98 % run-up is found about twice the computed value. That is an interesting and important result of the first synchronous recording of wave run-up on sea dikes.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 49
Author(s):  
Joachim Grune

This paper describes results of field measurements on wave run-up caused by storm surge waves. The measurements have been done with newly developed run-up probes at two locations at the German Bight with different dyke profiles. It was found from the results that the wave runup, measured under real sea state conditions, have greater values than predicted by commonly used formulae. Furthermore the wave climate and the breaker type seem to have an influence on the magnitudes of wave run-up.


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