scholarly journals A NONLINEAR MODEL OF IRREGULAR WAVE RUN-UP HEIGHT A D PERIOD DISTRIBUTIONS ON GENTLE SLOPES

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 29 ◽  
Author(s):  
Toru Sawaragi ◽  
Koichiro Iwata
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Model ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Long Period ◽  
Proposed Model ◽  
Run Up

This paper discusses the probability distributions of irregular wave run-up height and period on gentle slopes. Assuming that the long period component appeared on the run-up oscillation corresponds to the incident envelope wave period, a nonlinear model to estimate the probability distributions of run-up heights and periods is proposed. Laboratory experiments on gentle slopes of 1/15,1/30 and 1/40, and field measurements on a natural sandy beach with swash slopes of 1/6 to 1/14 were performed to examine the proposed model. The proposed model is shown to agree with the experiments.

scholarly journals Combining probability distributions of sea level variations and wave run-up to evaluate coastal flooding risks

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ulpu Leijala ◽  
Jan-Victor Björkqvist ◽  
Milla M. Johansson ◽  
Havu Pellikka ◽  
Lauri Laakso ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sea Level ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Joint Effect ◽  
Mean Sea Level ◽  
Safety Margins ◽  
Acceptable Risks ◽  
Flooding Hazards ◽  
Sea Level Variations ◽  
Run Up

Abstract. Tools for estimating probabilities of flooding hazards caused by the simultaneous effect of sea level and waves are needed for the secure planning of densely populated coastal areas that are strongly vulnerable to climate change. In this paper we present a method for combining location-specific probability distributions of three different components: (1) long-term mean sea level change, (2) short-term sea level variations, and (3) wind-generated waves. We apply the method in two locations in the Helsinki Archipelago to obtain run-up level estimates representing the joint effect of the still water level and the wave run-up. These estimates for the present, 2050 and 2100 are based on field measurements and mean sea level scenarios. In the case of our study locations, the significant locational variability of the wave conditions leads to a difference in the safe building levels of up to one meter. The rising mean sea level in the Gulf of Finland and the uncertainty related to the associated scenarios contribute significantly to the run-up levels for the year 2100. We also present a sensitivity test of the method and discuss its applicability to other coastal regions. Our approach allows for the determining of different building levels based on the acceptable risks for various infrastructure, thus reducing building costs while maintaining necessary safety margins.

scholarly journals SET-UP AND RUN-UP IN SHOALING BREAKERS

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 41 ◽  
Author(s):  
William G. Van Dorn
Keyword(s):  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Equation Of Motion ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Partial Reflection ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Block Sliding

This paper reports the results of a series of laboratory experiments with periodic waves breaking on uniformly sloping impermeable beaches with the object of distinguishing set-up from dynamic shoreline motions due to partial reflection, the combination of which is normally referred to as 'run-up'. The principal findings are: 1. The mean set-up across the breaker zone was observed to be linear with mean slope proportional to the square of the bottom slope. The mean slope was independent of frequency over slopes of 0.04 or less, and increased with wave period over steeper slopes. 2. The dynamic run-up range was found to be proportional to the square of wave period times beach slope, in agreement with the equation of motion for a nearly frictionless block sliding on corresponding slopes under gravity. 3. The total run-up was poorly correlated with Hunt's empirical formula, nor could any reasonable deterministic justification of this formula be deduced from the present results. 4. Transient run-up was observed to considerably exceed steady-state values in most cases, suggesting that time-dependent momentum flux should be considered in the run-up of variable (natural) waves.

scholarly journals A Spatiotemporal Convolutional Gated Recurrent Unit Network for Mean Wave Period Field Forecasting

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (4) ◽  
pp. 383
Author(s):  
Ting Yu ◽  
Jichao Wang
Keyword(s):  
Lead Time ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Data Driven ◽  
Lead Times ◽  
Proposed Model ◽  
Data Driven Approach ◽  
Mean Wave Period ◽  
Scattering Index ◽  
Gated Recurrent Unit ◽  
Methods Numerical

Mean wave period (MWP) is one of the key parameters affecting the design of marine facilities. Currently, there are two main methods, numerical and data-driven methods, for forecasting wave parameters, of which the latter are widely used. However, few studies have focused on MWP forecasting, and even fewer have investigated it with spatial and temporal information. In this study, correlations between ocean dynamic parameters are explored to obtain appropriate input features, significant wave height (SWH) and MWP. Subsequently, a data-driven approach, the convolution gated recurrent unit (Conv-GRU) model with spatiotemporal characteristics, is utilized to field forecast MWP with 1, 3, 6, 12, and 24-h lead times in the South China Sea. Six points at different locations and six consecutive moments at every 12-h intervals are selected to study the forecasting ability of the proposed model. The Conv-GRU model has a better performance than the single gated recurrent unit (GRU) model in terms of root mean square error (RMSE), the scattering index (SI), Bias, and the Pearson’s correlation coefficient (R). With the lead time increasing, the forecast effect shows a decreasing trend, specifically, the experiment displays a relatively smooth forecast curve and presents a great advantage in the short-term forecast of the MWP field in the Conv-GRU model, where the RMSE is 0.121 m for 1-h lead time.

scholarly journals Wave Force Characteristics of Large-Sized Offshore Wind Support Structures to Sea Levels and Wave Conditions

2019 ◽  
Vol 9 (9) ◽  
pp. 1855
Author(s):  
Youn-Ju Jeong ◽  
Min-Su Park ◽  
Jeongsoo Kim ◽  
Sung-Hoon Song
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Force ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Support Structures ◽  
Sea Levels ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Long Period ◽  
Short Period ◽  
Period Wave

This paper presents the results of wave force tests conducted on three types of offshore support structures considering eight waves and three sea levels to investigate the corresponding wave forces. As a result of this study, it is found that the occurrence of shoaling in shallow water induces a significant increase of the wave force. Most of the test models at the shallow water undergo a nonlinear increase of the wave force with higher wave height increasing. In addition, the larger the diameter of the support structure within the range of this study, the larger the diffraction effect is, and the increase in wave force due to shoaling is suppressed. Under an irregular wave at the shallow water, the wave force to the long-period wave tends to be slightly higher than that of the short period wave since the higher wave height component included in the irregular wave has an influence on the shoaling. In addition, it is found that the influence of shoaling under irregular wave becomes more apparent in the long period.

Numerical Investigation of Wave Period Influence on Long Wave Run-Up on Slope With Rigid Vegetation

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jun Tang ◽  
Yongming Shen
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Coastal Vegetation ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Rigid Vegetation ◽  
Comparison With Experiment ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Run Up

Coastal vegetation can not only provide shade to coastal structures but also reduce wave run-up. Study of long water wave climb on vegetation beach is fundamental to understanding that how wave run-up may be reduced by planted vegetation along coastline. The present study investigates wave period influence on long wave run-up on a partially-vegetated plane slope via numerical simulation. The numerical model is based on an implementation of Morison’s formulation for rigid structures induced inertia and drag stresses in the nonlinear shallow water equations. The numerical scheme is validated by comparison with experiment results. The model is then applied to investigate long wave with diverse periods propagating and run-up on a partially-vegetated 1:20 plane slope, and the sensitivity of run-up to wave period is investigated based on the numerical results.

Vibration-Induced Loosening Performance of Preloaded Threaded Fasteners

2010 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xianjie Yang ◽  
Sayed Nassar
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Model ◽  
Excitation Amplitude ◽  
The Self ◽  
Transverse Displacement ◽  
Transverse Loading ◽  
Threaded Fasteners ◽  
Bolt Preload ◽  
Proposed Model ◽  
Number Of Cycles ◽  
Insight Into

In an effort to establish a theoretical outline of a criterion for preventing the vibration-induced loosening of preloaded threaded fasteners, this paper provides an experimental and analytical insight into the effect of the initial bolt preload and the excitation amplitude on the self loosening performance of cap screw fastener. A nonlinear model is used for predicting the clamp load loss caused by the vibration-induced loosening of cap screw fasteners under cyclic transverse loading. Experimental verification was conducted on the twisting torque variation and the effect of the preload level and transverse displacement amplitude. Comparison of the experimental and analytical results on the clamp load loss with the number of cycles verifies that the proposed model accurately predicts self-loosening performance.

scholarly journals STATISTICAL PROPERTIES OF THE MAXIMUM RUN OF IRREGULAR SEA WAVES

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 48 ◽  
Author(s):  
Akira Kimura
Keyword(s):  
Probability Distribution ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Probability Distributions ◽  
Confidence Regions ◽  
Statistical Properties ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Distribution Of The Maximum

The probability distribution of the maximum run of irregular wave height is introduced theoretically. Probability distributions for the 2nd maximum, 3rd maximum and further maximum runs are also introduced. Their statistical properties, including the means and their confidence regions, are applied to the verification of experiments with irregular waves in the realization of a "severe sea state" in the test.

scholarly journals FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF BEDFORMS IN A RIP CHANNEL ON A MACRO-TIDAL BEACH

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 93
Author(s):  
Antony Thorpe ◽  
Jon Miles ◽  
Gerd Masselink ◽  
Paul Russell ◽  
Tim Scott ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Sandy Beach ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Field Measurements ◽  
Rip Current ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Migration Rates ◽  
Sand Ripple ◽  
Current Maximum ◽  
Offshore Flow ◽  
And Migration

A Sand Ripple Profiler (SRP) was deployed in a rip channel on a dissipative sandy beach to measure bedform height (∆), length (λ) and migration rate (Mr¬) throughout a macro-tidal cycle with an offshore significant wave height of 0.7 m and peak period of 10 s. At lower tidal elevations in the strong offshore flow of the rip current (maximum = 0.4 m/s) bedforms (∆ = 0.15 m, λ = 3 m) were found to migrate offshore (Mr = 0.21 m/hr). Outside of active rip current conditions (water depth (h) = >~2.5 m) bedforms were found to be of smaller scale (∆ = 0.09 – 0.12 m, λ = 1 – 1.2 m) migrating onshore at a rate of 0.35 m/hr at mid tide (h = 3.3 m) and 0.03 m/hr at high tide (h = 6.3 m). Onshore migration rates were found to increase with increased wave skewness and velocity variance.

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