Experimental and Numerical Study on Solitary Wave Breaking

Author(s):  
Hitoshi Nishimura ◽  
Satoshi Takewaka
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 264
Author(s):  
Shanti Bhushan ◽  
Oumnia El Fajri ◽  
Graham Hubbard ◽  
Bradley Chambers ◽  
Christopher Kees

This study evaluates the capability of Navier–Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose, 2D simulations are performed for four test cases: dam break, solitary wave run up on a slope, flow over a submerged bump, and solitary wave over a submerged rectangular obstacle. Plunging wave breaking involves high wave crest, plunger formation, and splash up, followed by second plunger, and chaotic water motions. Coarser grids reasonably predict the wave breaking features, but finer grids are required for accurate prediction of the splash up events. However, instabilities are triggered at the air–water interface (primarily for the air flow) on very fine grids, which induces surface peel-off or kinks and roll-up of the plunger tips. Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) turbulence models result in high eddy-viscosity in the air–water region which decays the fluid momentum and adversely affects the predictions. Both VoF and CLSVoF methods predict the large-scale plunging breaking characteristics well; however, they vary in the prediction of the finer details. The CLSVoF solver predicts the splash-up event and secondary plunger better than the VoF solver; however, the latter predicts the plunger shape better than the former for the solitary wave run-up on a slope case.


1982 ◽  
Vol 51 (3) ◽  
pp. 1018-1023 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mitsuaki Funakoshi ◽  
Masayuki Oikawa

2011 ◽  
pp. 1922-1929
Author(s):  
YI HU ◽  
YI LIU ◽  
XIN GUO ◽  
LIAN SHEN

2021 ◽  
pp. 104041
Author(s):  
S. Draycott ◽  
Y. Li ◽  
P.K. Stansby ◽  
T.A.A. Adcock ◽  
T.S. van den Bremer

1989 ◽  
Vol 209 ◽  
pp. 249-263 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lev Shemer ◽  
Eliezer Kit

Results of an experimental and numerical study of parametrically excited nonlinear cross-waves in the vicinity of the cut-off frequency, are reported. Experiments are performed at three cross-wave modes and in the whole range of existence of cross-waves. Numerical studies are based on the solution of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation with a boundary condition at the wavemaker which corresponds to parametric excitation. The validity of the scaling procedure adopted in the model is verified experimentally. Dissipation is incorporated in the model equation and in the wavemaker boundary condition. The influence of the wave breaking on the range of existence of cross-waves is discussed and the relation between the maximum possible steepness of cross-waves and the limits of their existence is obtained.


2002 ◽  
Vol 456 ◽  
pp. 295-318 ◽  
Author(s):  
YING LI ◽  
FREDRIC RAICHLEN

The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank was investigated experimentally and numerically. If only the general characteristics of the run-up process and the maximum run-up are of interest, for the case of a breaking wave the post-breaking condition can be simplified and represented as a propagating bore. A numerical model using this bore structure to treat the process of wave breaking and subsequent shoreward propagation was developed. The nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) were solved using the weighted essentially non-oscillatory (WENO) shock capturing scheme employed in gas dynamics. Wave breaking and post-breaking propagation are handled automatically by this scheme and ad hoc terms are not required. A computational domain mapping technique was used to model the shoreline movement. This numerical scheme was found to provide a relatively simple and reasonably good prediction of various aspects of the run-up process. The energy dissipation associated with wave breaking of solitary wave run-up (excluding the effects of bottom friction) was also estimated using the results from the numerical model.


2009 ◽  
Vol 16 (1) ◽  
pp. 33-42 ◽  
Author(s):  
V. Maderich ◽  
T. Talipova ◽  
R. Grimshaw ◽  
E. Pelinovsky ◽  
B. H. Choi ◽  
...  

Abstract. In this paper we study the transformation of an internal solitary wave at a bottom step in the framework of two-layer flow, for the case when the interface lies close to the bottom, and so the solitary waves are elevation waves. The outcome is the formation of solitary waves and dispersive wave trains in both the reflected and transmitted fields. We use a two-pronged approach, based on numerical simulations of the fully nonlinear equations using a version of the Princeton Ocean Model on the one hand, and a theoretical and numerical study of the Gardner equation on the other hand. In the numerical experiments, the ratio of the initial wave amplitude to the layer thickness is varied up one-half, and nonlinear effects are then essential. In general, the characteristics of the generated solitary waves obtained in the fully nonlinear simulations are in reasonable agreement with the predictions of our theoretical model, which is based on matching linear shallow-water theory in the vicinity of a step with solutions of the Gardner equation for waves far from the step.


Author(s):  
Masanori Hara ◽  
Takashi Yasuda ◽  
Yukio Sakakibara
Keyword(s):  

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