scholarly journals Non-breaking and breaking solitary wave run-up

2002 ◽  
Vol 456 ◽  
pp. 295-318 ◽  
Author(s):  
YING LI ◽  
FREDRIC RAICHLEN
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Ad Hoc ◽  
Mapping Technique ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Good Prediction ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Domain Mapping ◽  
Run Up

The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to a constant-depth wave tank was investigated experimentally and numerically. If only the general characteristics of the run-up process and the maximum run-up are of interest, for the case of a breaking wave the post-breaking condition can be simplified and represented as a propagating bore. A numerical model using this bore structure to treat the process of wave breaking and subsequent shoreward propagation was developed. The nonlinear shallow water equations (NLSW) were solved using the weighted essentially non-oscillatory (WENO) shock capturing scheme employed in gas dynamics. Wave breaking and post-breaking propagation are handled automatically by this scheme and ad hoc terms are not required. A computational domain mapping technique was used to model the shoreline movement. This numerical scheme was found to provide a relatively simple and reasonably good prediction of various aspects of the run-up process. The energy dissipation associated with wave breaking of solitary wave run-up (excluding the effects of bottom friction) was also estimated using the results from the numerical model.

scholarly journals Assessment of Numerical Methods for Plunging Breaking Wave Predictions

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 264
Author(s):  
Shanti Bhushan ◽  
Oumnia El Fajri ◽  
Graham Hubbard ◽  
Bradley Chambers ◽  
Christopher Kees
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Turbulence Models ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Rans Turbulence Models ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Better Than

This study evaluates the capability of Navier–Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose, 2D simulations are performed for four test cases: dam break, solitary wave run up on a slope, flow over a submerged bump, and solitary wave over a submerged rectangular obstacle. Plunging wave breaking involves high wave crest, plunger formation, and splash up, followed by second plunger, and chaotic water motions. Coarser grids reasonably predict the wave breaking features, but finer grids are required for accurate prediction of the splash up events. However, instabilities are triggered at the air–water interface (primarily for the air flow) on very fine grids, which induces surface peel-off or kinks and roll-up of the plunger tips. Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) turbulence models result in high eddy-viscosity in the air–water region which decays the fluid momentum and adversely affects the predictions. Both VoF and CLSVoF methods predict the large-scale plunging breaking characteristics well; however, they vary in the prediction of the finer details. The CLSVoF solver predicts the splash-up event and secondary plunger better than the VoF solver; however, the latter predicts the plunger shape better than the former for the solitary wave run-up on a slope case.

On the Validity and Sensitivity of CFD Simulations for a Deterministic Breaking Wave Impact on a Semi Submersible

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Henry Bandringa ◽  
Joop A. Helder
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Absorbing Boundary Conditions ◽  
Implicit Time ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Wave Impact ◽  
Time Step ◽  
Cfd Simulations ◽  
Detailed Model ◽  
Run Up

To assess the integrity and safety of structures offshore, prediction of run-up, green water, and impact loads needs to be made during the structure’s design. For predicting these highly non-linear phenomena, most of the offshore industry relies on detailed model testing. In the last couple of years however, CFD simulations have shown more and more promising results in predicting these events, see for instance [1]–[4]. To obtain confidence in the accuracy of CFD simulations in the challenging field of extreme wave impacts, a proper validation of such CFD tools is essential. In this paper two CFD tools are considered for the simulation of a deterministic breaking wave impact on a fixed semi submersible, resulting in flow phenomena like wave run-up, horizontal wave impact and deck impacts. Hereby, one of the CFD tools applies an unstructured gridding approach and implicit free-surface reconstruction, and uses an implicit time integration with a fixed time step. The other CFD tool explicitly reconstructs the free surface on a structured grid and integrates the free surface explicitly in time, using a variable time step. The presented simulations use a compact computational domain with wave absorbing boundary conditions and local grid refinement to reduce CPU time. Besides a typical verification and validation of the results, for one of the CFD tools a sensitivity study is performed in which the influence of small variations in the incoming breaking wave on the overall results is assessed. Such an analysis should provide the industry more insight in the to-be-expected sensitivity (and hence uncertainty) of CFD simulations for these type of applications. Experiments carried out by MARIN are used to validate all the presented simulation results.

scholarly journals NUMERICAL MODEL OF BREAKING WAVE AROUND A RIVER MOUTH

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 97
Author(s):  
Jong-Sup Lee ◽  
Toru Sawaragi ◽  
Ichiro Deguchi
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Small Amplitude ◽  
River Mouth ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Experimental Result ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Amplitude Wave ◽  
Current Interaction

Equations for wave kinematics and wave dynamics based on small amplitude wave theory have been used in the prediction of wave deformations and wave-indused currents. However, the applicability of the linear wave theory is questionable in a river mouth where forced wave breaking and strong wave-current interaction take place. A numerical model based on the non-linear dispersive wave theory has been developed, the results by this model was compared with the values of the experiments and the linear theory. Wave transformations including shoaling, wave-current interaction and wave breaking by the model showed a good agreement with the experimental result. In the prediction of wave-induced currents, the excess momentum flux (Pxx) computed by the model has more reasonable value than the radiation stress ( Sxx) calculated by the small amplitude wave theory.

scholarly journals CFD Analysis of Water Solitary Wave Reflection

2011 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 10 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. Smida ◽  
H. Lamloumi ◽  
K. Maalel ◽  
Z. Hafsia
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Collision Process ◽  
Linear Waves ◽  
Run Up

 A new numerical wave generation method is used to investigate the head-on collision of two solitary waves. The reflection at vertical wall of a solitary wave is also presented. The originality of this model, based on the Navier-Stokes equations, is the specification of an internal inlet velocity, defined as a source line within the computational domain for the generation of these non linear waves. This model was successfully implemented in the PHOENICS (Parabolic Hyperbolic Or Elliptic Numerical Integration Code Series) code. The collision of two counter-propagating solitary waves is similar to the interaction of a soliton with a vertical wall. This wave generation method allows the saving of considerable time for this collision process since the counter-propagating wave is generated directly without reflection at vertical wall. For the collision of two solitary waves, numerical results show that the run-up phenomenon can be well explained, the solution of the maximum wave run-up is almost equal to experimental measurement. The simulated wave profiles during the collision are in good agreement with experimental results. For the reflection at vertical wall, the spatial profiles of the wave at fixed instants show that this problem is equivalent to the collision process. 

Solitary wave run-up: wave breaking and bore propagation

2017 ◽  
Vol 55 (6) ◽  
pp. 787-798 ◽  
Author(s):  
Helgi J. Hafsteinsson ◽  
Frederic M. Evers ◽  
Willi H. Hager
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals Staggered Conservative Scheme for 2-Dimensional Shallow Water Flows

Fluids ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 5 (3) ◽  
pp. 149
Author(s):  
Novry Erwina ◽  
Didit Adytia ◽  
Sri Redjeki Pudjaprasetya ◽  
Toni Nuryaman
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Numerical Model ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Threshold Value ◽  
Staggered Grid ◽  
Conservative Scheme ◽  
Shallow Water Flows ◽  
Run Up ◽  
N Wave

Simulating discontinuous phenomena such as shock waves and wave breaking during wave propagation and run-up has been a challenging task for wave modeller. This requires a robust, accurate, and efficient numerical implementation. In this paper, we propose a two-dimensional numerical model for simulating wave propagation and run-up in shallow areas. We implemented numerically the 2-dimensional Shallow Water Equations (SWE) on a staggered grid by applying the momentum conserving approximation in the advection terms. The numerical model is named MCS-2d. For simulations of wet–dry phenomena and wave run-up, a method called thin layer is used, which is essentially a calculation of the momentum deactivated in dry areas, i.e., locations where the water thickness is less than the specified threshold value. Efficiency and robustness of the scheme are demonstrated by simulations of various benchmark shallow flow tests, including those with complex bathymetry and wave run-up. The accuracy of the scheme in the calculation of the moving shoreline was validated using the analytical solutions of Thacker 1981, N-wave by Carrier et al., 2003, and solitary wave in a sloping bay by Zelt 1986. Laboratory benchmarking was performed by simulation of a solitary wave run-up on a conical island, as well as a simulation of the Monai Valley case. Here, the embedded-influxing method is used to generate an appropriate wave influx for these simulations. Simulation results were compared favorably to the analytical and experimental data. Good agreement was reached with regard to wave signals and the calculation of moving shoreline. These observations suggest that the MCS method is appropriate for simulations of varying shallow water flow.

Two Phase Flow Simulation With Lattice Boltzmann Method: Application to Wave Breaking

2013 ◽  
Author(s):  
Amir Banari ◽  
Stephan T. Grilli ◽  
Christian F. Janssen
Keyword(s):  
Lattice Boltzmann Method ◽  
Lattice Boltzmann ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Fluid Pressure ◽  
High Density ◽  
Three Dimensions ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Density Ratios ◽  
Boltzmann Method

A new Lattice Boltzmann method (LBM) is developed to efficiently simulate multiphase flows with high density ratios, in order to study complex air-sea interaction problems, such as wind wave breaking and related sea-spray generation. In this method, which builds and improves on the method proposed earlier by [1], the motion of (diffusive) interfaces between fluids is modeled by solving the convective Cahn-Hilliard equation with the LBM. As in the latter work, we eliminate instabilities resulting from high density ratios by solving an additional Poisson equation for the fluid pressure. The resulting numerical scheme is computationally demanding since this equation must be solved over the entire computational domain, which motivates implementing the method on the massively parallel environment offered by General Purpose Graphical Processing Units (GPGPU), via the nVIDIA CUDA framework. In this paper, we present the equations and numerical methods for the method and the initial validation of the resulting multiphase-LBM for standard benchmark problems such as Poiseuille flow, a rising bubble, and Rayleigh-Taylor instability for two-fluid systems. A good agreement with the reference solutions is achieved in all cases. Finally, the method is applied to simulating an ocean breaking wave in a space periodic domain. In all the presented applications, it is observed that the GPGPU implementation leads to speed-ups of about two orders of magnitude in comparison to a single-core CPU implementation. Although the method is only currently implemented in a two-dimensional (2D) framework, its extension to three-dimensions (3D) should be straightforward, but the need for the efficient GPGPU implementation will become even more drastic in 3D.

scholarly journals RESONANT INTERACTIONS FOR WAVES BREAKING.ON A BEACH

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 31 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert T. Guza ◽  
Anthony J. Bowen
Keyword(s):  
Incident Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Viscous Effects ◽  
Resonant Interactions ◽  
Maximum Value ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Subharmonic Resonances

A laboratory and theoretical study of the transition from strongly reflected surging to dissipative plunging breakers on a relatively steep plane beach (1:8) has revealed the following: (1) The run-up and offshore variation of sea surface elevation of surging waves are well predicted by linear theory. (2) The fluctuating part of the run-up (related to the amplitude of the reflected incident wave) reaches a maximum value; a further increase in incident progressive wave energy results in increased dissipation. (3) Subharmonic edge waves (the growing instabilities of surging waves) are driven primarily by the swash motion, which does not increase with increasing incident breaking wave height. However, the turbulence accompanying incident wave breaking, and the effective eddy viscosity, rapidly increases with increasing breaker height. As a result, subharmonic resonances do not occur with spilling or steep plunging waves; very strong viscous effects suppress the nonlinear instabilities. (4) edge waves generated by a surging incident wave can be suppressed by superimposing an additional breaking wave of different frequency on the incident wave field. Thus, any excited edge waves are likely to have length scales at least the order of a surf zone width.

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