On the deep‐water fetch laws for wind‐generated surface gravity waves

1989 ◽  
Vol 27 (1) ◽  
pp. 210-236 ◽  
Author(s):  
F. Dobson ◽  
W. Perrie ◽  
B. Toulany
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves

scholarly journals The effect of randomness on the stability of deep water surface gravity waves in the presence of a thin thermocline

1998 ◽  
Vol 40 (2) ◽  
pp. 190-206
Author(s):  
Sudebi Bhattacharyya ◽  
K. P. Das
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rate ◽  
Evolution Equation ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Fourth Order ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Spectral Width ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves ◽  
The Stability

AbstractThe effect of randomness on the stability of deep water surface gravity waves in the presence of a thin thermocline is studied. A previously derived fourth order nonlinear evolution equation is used to find a spectral transport equation for a narrow band of surface gravity wave trains. This equation is used to study the stability of an initially homogeneous Lorentz shape of spectrum to small long wave-length perturbations for a range of spectral widths. The growth rate of the instability is found to decrease with the increase of spectral widths. It is found that the fourth order term in the evolution equation produces a decrease in the growth rate of the instability. There is stability if the spectral width exceeds a certain critical value. For a vanishing bandwidth the deterministic growth rate of the instability is recovered. Graphs have been plotted showing the variations of the growth rate of the instability against the wavenumber of the perturbation for some different values of spectral width, thermocline depth, angle of perturbation and wave steepness.

Surfing surface gravity waves

2017 ◽  
Vol 823 ◽  
pp. 316-328 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nick E. Pizzo
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Phase Speed ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Simple Criterion ◽  
Surface Gravity Wave ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves

A simple criterion for water particles to surf an underlying surface gravity wave is presented. It is found that particles travelling near the phase speed of the wave, in a geometrically confined region on the forward face of the crest, increase in speed. The criterion is derived using the equation of John (Commun. Pure Appl. Maths, vol. 6, 1953, pp. 497–503) for the motion of a zero-stress free surface under the action of gravity. As an example, a breaking water wave is theoretically and numerically examined. Implications for upper-ocean processes, for both shallow- and deep-water waves, are discussed.

scholarly journals Nonlinear Spectral Synthesis of Soliton Gas in Deep-Water Surface Gravity Waves

2020 ◽  
Vol 125 (26) ◽  
Author(s):  
Pierre Suret ◽  
Alexey Tikan ◽  
Félicien Bonnefoy ◽  
François Copie ◽  
Guillaume Ducrozet ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Surface ◽  
Spectral Synthesis ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Surface Gravity Waves
Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document