Fashion futures and critical fashion studies

Continuum ◽  
2021 ◽  
pp. 1-11
Author(s):  
Natalya Lusty
Keyword(s):  
Fashion Studies

Scenarios of style: An exploration of subcultural research as embodied practice in Los Angeles’s vintage Jamaican music scene

2020 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
pp. 195-218 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nina L. Cole
Keyword(s):  
Performance Studies ◽  
Participant Observation ◽  
Single Case ◽  
Research Setting ◽  
Individual Agency ◽  
Fashion Studies ◽  
Music Scene ◽  
Oral History Interviews ◽  
Embodied Practice

This article sets forth a performance studies framework for subcultural research: scenarios of style. This embodied epistemology brings together Diana Taylor’s scenario paradigm with interdisciplinary perspectives on style to provide a means for researchers to explore the ways in which style is constitutive of subcultural life. Twenty-five years of involvement in Los Angeles’s vintage Jamaican music scene and four years of fieldwork – comprised of participant observation, oral history interviews and archival research – undergird my theorization. To communicate individual agency and subcultural traditions of style, this article explores a single case study situated within my larger research setting. Because scenarios of style supports embodied, situated understandings of knowledge and is contextually adaptable, this article posits its broader relevancy for fashion studies research.

scholarly journals Fashion Studies Volume 3, Issue 1, Launch Panel Discussion

2020 ◽  
Vol 3 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Shawkay Ottmann ◽  
Ellen Sampson ◽  
Philip Sparks ◽  
Cheryl Thompson
Keyword(s):  
Panel Discussion ◽  
Fashion Studies ◽  
Question And Answer

A panel discussion featuring four of our brilliant authors from this new issue: Shawkay Ottmann, Dr. Ellen Sampson, Philip Sparks, and Dr. Cheryl Thompson. This panel was moderated by the journal’s Co-Founders and Co-Editors, Dr. Ben Barry and Dr. Alison Matthews David, and includes a question and answer period with event guests.

Marketing lifestyles: The ready-to-wear industry and the genesis of the consumer in the United States (1880‐1930)

2020 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 3-23 ◽  
Author(s):  
Cesare Silla
Keyword(s):  
United States ◽  
The United States ◽  
American Business ◽  
World War ◽  
Consumer Capitalism ◽  
Fashion Studies ◽  
The First World War ◽  
New Consumer ◽  
First World

This article aims to make a specific contribution to the field of fashion studies through a discussion of the role of marketing in the emergence of consumer capitalism in the United States between 1880 and 1930. Specifically, the orientation of American business towards marketing and its impact on the growth of the ready-to-wear industry after the First World War are presented and discussed. This new orientation is attributed to the emergence of a new ‘consumer culture’ related to the ‘democratization’ of fashion, which actively contributed towards shaping an appropriate type of subjectivity: the fashion-conscious consumer. Rather than discussing whether marketing forged new or responded to already existing fashion trends, this article employs a genealogical approach and focuses on the process of co-emergence: under what conditions and through what kind of forces did separate developments in fashion and marketing eventually join to meet the needs of a new form of subjectivity-in-the-making?

Teaching Fashion Studies

2018 ◽  
Vol 24 (2) ◽  
pp. 313-317
Author(s):  
Lauren Downing Peters
Keyword(s):  
Fashion Studies

#50+ fashion Instagram influencers: cognitive age and aesthetic digital labours

2020 ◽  
Vol 24 (3) ◽  
pp. 399-413
Author(s):  
Ashleigh McFarlane ◽  
Emma Samsioe
Keyword(s):  
Social Construction ◽  
Design Methodology ◽  
Visual Analysis ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Cultural Contexts ◽  
Fashion Studies ◽  
The Social ◽  
Cognitive Age ◽  
Critical Visual Analysis ◽  
Practical Implications

PurposeThis paper demonstrates how #50+ fashion Instagram influencers contribute to the social construction of cognitive age through their aesthetic digital labours.Design/methodology/approachNon-participative netnography was used in the form of visual and textual analysis of over 300 Instagram posts including images, captions and comments.FindingsFindings reveal how outfit selection, background choices and bodily poses redefine expressions of look age through forms of aesthetic labour. Post-construction, hashtag and emoji usage illustrates how influencers refrain from directly posting about the fashion brands that they endorse. Instead, image and personality work visually attracts followers to politically charged posts which directly impact upon the social and cultural contexts where influencers are active. This ties into present-day wider societal discourses.Practical implications50+ fashion influencers have high spending power. Fashion brands should refrain from using #brand and collaborate in more subtle ways and concentrate on challenging the negativity of the old-age cliché.Originality/valueThe study advances theory on the social construction of age in fashion studies by combining cognitive age with aesthetic labour to identify the characteristics of the social phenomenon of the 50+ Instagram influencer. It applies principles from critical visual analysis to digital context, thereby advancing the qualitative netnographic toolkit.

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