scholarly journals Effect of Some Fabric and Sewing Conditions on Apparel Seam Characteristics

2013 ◽  
Vol 2013 ◽  
pp. 1-7 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. K. Choudhary ◽  
Amit Goel
Keyword(s):  
Design Methodology ◽  
Flexural Rigidity ◽  
Orthogonal Design ◽  
Needle Size ◽  
Sewing Machine ◽  
Sewing Thread ◽  
Operation And Maintenance ◽  
Stitch Density ◽  
Thread Tension ◽  
Needle Thread

Many previous studies showed that seam appearance as well as performance depends on the interrelationship of fabrics, threads, and the stitch/seam selection and lastly on the sewing conditions, which include the needle size, needle thread tension, stitch density, and the appropriate operation and maintenance of the sewing machine. Present investigation elucidates the effect of blend composition, sewing thread size, and sewing needle parameters on garment seam characteristics (i.e., seam strength, seam strength efficiency, seam puckering, seam stiffness, and drape coefficient). The seam quality characterization is studied through the L9 orthogonal design methodology. In good quality apparels, compatibility of the seams with the functional requirement is very important for serviceability and life of the apparel. Reversibility as well as repairing of seams in the apparel is very limited in the condition of seam failure. Seam strength efficiency is higher for the uniform fiber matrix in the structure of fabrics. The polyester dominated suiting fabrics give minimum seam stiffness because polyester component has low flexural rigidity. The cotton dominated suiting fabrics have less seam puckering due to increase in fabric stiffness.

Impact of stitch length on sewing needle temperature

2014 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
pp. 187-192
Author(s):  
Adnan Mazari ◽  
Antonin Havelka
Keyword(s):  
Sewing Machine ◽  
Sewing Needle ◽  
Sewing Thread ◽  
Stitch Density ◽  
Stitch Length ◽  
Thermocouple Method ◽  
Couple Method ◽  
Thermo Couple

In this article the sewing needle heat is measured without sewing thread and with sewing thread at different stitch density (stitches per inch or SPI) of lock stitch sewing machine by thermocouples. Two methods are used to measure sewing needle heat, touch thermocouple method and inserted thermo couple method. Needle temperature is measured after periodic 10, 20, 30 and 60 seconds of sewing operation. Whereas the machine running at speed from 1000 r/m to 4700 r/m. It is observed that decreasing stitch length causes an increase in the temperature of the sewing needle. Stitch density shows same influence on needle for sewing with thread and without thread. It is observed from our research that at SPI of 14 the needle temperature with thread rises to 259 °C at 4000 r/min of machine. It is recommended to use minimum stitch density.

scholarly journals Simultaneous Measuring Method of Needle Thread Tension and Needle Thread Movement for Lockstitch Sewing Machine.

1998 ◽  
Vol 51 (6) ◽  
pp. T125-T130
Author(s):  
Yoshinobu Kamata ◽  
Toyofumi Kato ◽  
Takuya Oda ◽  
Katsuyuki Sakamoto ◽  
Yukihiro Ando ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Measuring Method ◽  
Sewing Machine ◽  
Thread Tension ◽  
Simultaneous Measuring ◽  
Lockstitch Sewing ◽  
Needle Thread

scholarly journals A Study of the Consumption of Sewing Threads for Women's Underwear: Bras and Panties

2020 ◽  
Vol 20 (3) ◽  
pp. 299-311
Author(s):  
Brahem Mariem ◽  
Messaoudi Wissal ◽  
Khedher Faouzi ◽  
Jaouachi Boubaker ◽  
Dominique Adolphe
Keyword(s):  
Linear Regression ◽  
Regression Method ◽  
Linear Regression Method ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Fabric Thickness ◽  
Sewing Thread ◽  
Consumption Values ◽  
Stitch Density ◽  
Sewing Threads ◽  
Influential Parameters

AbstractThe article evaluates the amount of the consumed sewing thread for women's underwear (underwear bras and panties). Based on the obtained findings, it was concluded that sewing thread amount depends enormously on the studied influential parameters. The present paper reports a contribution that allows industries and researchers to decrease the consumed amounts of sewing thread in case of women's underwear and panties The study takes into account the different stitch structures and fabric characteristics that are usually used. The effects of influential input parameters, such as fabric thickness, number of assembled layers, stitch density, and tension of the thread, are investigated. Useful models have been found and can be used by industries to accuracy predict the thread consumption for women's underwear and panties to launch the needed thread commands. The developed models use multiregressive method. In this study, the fabrics that have been considered are knitted fabrics because they are those used in women's underwear. We found that women's underwear bras consume more sewing threads than panties. Using linear regression method, good relationships (coefficients of correlation close to 1) between consumption behaviors and the investigated parameters such as fabric thickness, number of assembled layers, stitch number per centimeter, sizes and tension of threads, were found. Although, the increase of threads tension to sew female underwear decreases the consumed amount of threads, the increase of other studied parameters widely encourages the consumption values, especially for seams based on chain-stitch types.

scholarly journals Measuring Needle Thread Tension and Detecting Skip-Stitch durillg Sewing Process (2)

1974 ◽  
Vol 27 (2) ◽  
pp. P111-P116 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. Miyashita ◽  
J. Sekuguchi ◽  
M. Sasahara ◽  
H. Kandachi
Keyword(s):  
Thread Tension ◽  
Needle Thread

Study on fabric compression under seam vis a vis quantitative measurement of seam boldness and thread consumption for lockstitch 301

2020 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Md Vaseem Chavhan ◽  
Mandapati Ramesh Naidu
Keyword(s):  
Quantitative Measurement ◽  
Multilinear Regression ◽  
New Approach ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Single View ◽  
Sewing Thread ◽  
Stitch Density ◽  
Proposed Model ◽  
Fabric Weight ◽  
Single View Metrology

Purpose This paper aims to develop at sewing thread during the seam formation may lead to the compression of fabric under seam. In the present study, the model has been proposed to predict the seam compression and calculation of seam boldness, as well as thread consumption by considering seam compression. Design/methodology/approach The effect of sewing parameters on the fabric compression at the seam (Cf) for fabrics of varying bulk density was studied by the Taguchi method and also the multilinear regression equation is obtained to predict seam compression by considering these parameters. The framework has been set as per the single view metrology approach to measuring structural seam boldness (Bs). One of the basic geometrical models (Ghosh and Chavhan, 2014) for the prediction of thread consumption at lock stitch has been modified by considering fabric compression at the seam (Cf). Findings The multilinear regression model has been proposed which can predict the compression under seam using easily measurable fabric parameters and stitch density. The seam boldness is successfully calculated quantitatively using the proposed formula with a good correlation with the seam boldness rated subjectively. The thread consumption estimation from the proposed approach was found to be more accurate. Originality/value The compression under seam is found out using easily measurable parameters; fabric thickness, fabric weight and stitch density from the proposed model. The attempt has been made to calculate seam boldness quantitatively and the new approach to find out thread consumption by considering the seam compression has been proposed.

A model on the viscoelastic behavior of sewn knitted fabrics

2019 ◽  
Vol 31 (3) ◽  
pp. 362-375
Author(s):  
Reyhaneh Shekarian ◽  
Sayyed Mahdi Hejazi ◽  
Mohammad Sheikhzadeh
Keyword(s):  
Significant Influence ◽  
Viscoelastic Behavior ◽  
Tensile Creep ◽  
Knitted Fabric ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Retarded Time ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Sewing Thread ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Thread Tension

Purpose Knitted fabrics have been widely used in a wide range of applications such as apparel industry. Since these fabrics are continuously subjected to the long-term tensile stresses or tensile creep in real conditions, investigation of viscoelastic behavior of sewn knitted fabrics would be important especially at the seamed area. The paper aims to discuss this issue. Design/methodology/approach A lockstitch machine was used to produce sewn samples by knitted fabric. Factors such as stitch per inch (SPI), thread tension and thread type were variables of the model. Tensile creep tests under constant load of 200 N were conducted, and creep compliance parameter D(t) of samples was obtained as a response variable. A successive residual method (SRM) was also used to characterize viscoelastic properties of sewn-seamed fabrics. Findings The instantaneous elastic responses of the seamed samples were less than those of the neat fabric (fabric with no seam). An increase in sewing thread strength increases the instantaneous elastic response of the sample. SPI and thread tension have an optimum value to increase E0. High tenacity polyester thread, due to its higher elastic modulus, caused a larger E0 than polyester/cotton thread in sewn knitted fabric. Characteristics of seam including sewing thread type, SPI and sewing tension have significant influence on T0. Sewn-seamed fabric by high modulus thread shows less viscous strain T0 than the neat fabric (fabric with no seam). Viscous strain T0 decreases as SPI changes from 8 to 4 and/or 12. SPI and thread tension have an optimum value to increase the viscous strain T0. E1 is the same for optimum seamed fabric and fabric sample but T1 is about two times greater for seamed fabric. Retarded time for creep recovery increases by sewing process but characteristics of seam have significant influence on E1 and T1. All sewn knitted fabric samples used in this study could be described by Burger’s model, which is a Maxwell model paralleled with a Kelvin one. Originality/value This paper is going to use a different method named successive residuals to model the creep behavior of seamed knitted fabric. On the whole, this paper paved a way to obtain viscoelastic constants of sewn-seamed knitted fabrics based on different sewing parameters such as the modulus of elasticity of the sewing thread, SPI and sewing thread tension.

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