Study on fabric compression under seam vis a vis quantitative measurement of seam boldness and thread consumption for lockstitch 301

2020 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Md Vaseem Chavhan ◽  
Mandapati Ramesh Naidu

Purpose This paper aims to develop at sewing thread during the seam formation may lead to the compression of fabric under seam. In the present study, the model has been proposed to predict the seam compression and calculation of seam boldness, as well as thread consumption by considering seam compression. Design/methodology/approach The effect of sewing parameters on the fabric compression at the seam (Cf) for fabrics of varying bulk density was studied by the Taguchi method and also the multilinear regression equation is obtained to predict seam compression by considering these parameters. The framework has been set as per the single view metrology approach to measuring structural seam boldness (Bs). One of the basic geometrical models (Ghosh and Chavhan, 2014) for the prediction of thread consumption at lock stitch has been modified by considering fabric compression at the seam (Cf). Findings The multilinear regression model has been proposed which can predict the compression under seam using easily measurable fabric parameters and stitch density. The seam boldness is successfully calculated quantitatively using the proposed formula with a good correlation with the seam boldness rated subjectively. The thread consumption estimation from the proposed approach was found to be more accurate. Originality/value The compression under seam is found out using easily measurable parameters; fabric thickness, fabric weight and stitch density from the proposed model. The attempt has been made to calculate seam boldness quantitatively and the new approach to find out thread consumption by considering the seam compression has been proposed.

2019 ◽  
Vol 0 (0) ◽  
Author(s):  
Sarah Malek ◽  
Faouzi Khedher ◽  
Dominique C. Adolphe ◽  
Boubaker Jaouachi

Abstract This work deals with determination of rapid and precise methods to predict the amount of sewing thread needed to sew a garment using different chain stitches of the class 400 (from 401 to 407 chain stitches). At first, to avoid unused stocks, sewing consumption value was determined using a geometrical method (based on different chain stitch shapes). The prediction of the sewing thread consumption was proposed as a function of the studied input parameters, which are fabric thickness, stitch density, yarn linear density, and stitch width. Then, a statistical method based on the multilinear regression was studied. Geometrical and statistical results were discussed. Based on the R2 range, we concluded that the geometrical method is more accurate than the statistical one (from 98.16 to 99.19% and from 97.30 to 98.51%, respectively). Thus, this result encourages industrialists to use geometrical models to predict thread consumption. Also, all studied parameters, contributing to the sewing thread consumption behavior, were investigated and analyzed. The result shows that the most important parameters affecting thread consumption are stitch density followed by stitch width and fabric thickness. The yarn density has a low contribution on the thread consumption value.


2017 ◽  
Vol 21 (4) ◽  
pp. 293-306
Author(s):  
Mallika Datta ◽  
Devarun Nath ◽  
Asif Javed ◽  
Nabab Hossain

Purpose The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal shirt. Maximum seam efficiency and interaction between the process parameters were assessed. Design/methodology/approach The classical method of optimisation involves varying one variable at a time and keeping the others constant. This is often useful, but it does not explain the effect of interaction between the variables under consideration. In this study, the response surface methodology was used for securing a more accurate optimisation of seam quality (seam efficiency) of woven linen shirting fabric. The response surface method is an empirical statistical technique used for multiple regression analysis of quantitative data obtained from statistically designed experiments by solving the multivariate equations simultaneously. Through this system, the input level of each process parameter, i.e. variable and the level of the selected response (seam efficiency), can be quantified. The central composite, Box–Behnken, is the common design used here. Findings The maximum seam efficiency is 79.62 per cent and 83.13 per cent in warp and weft direction, respectively, with optimum areal density (G) of 110 g/m2 of woven linen shirting fabric. The most suitable stitch density and ticket number of commercial grade sewing thread for woven linen shirting fabric are 13-13.5 and 40, respectively. Practical implications This study could help apparel manufacturers to evaluate seam quality, i.e. seam efficiency of woven linen fabric for men’s shirting, more effectively from the proposed regression model. The optimisation of the commercial grade sewing thread size and stitch density used in this study for woven linen shirting fabric within the range of 110-150 g/m2 will facilitate apparel engineers in production planning and quality control. Originality/value There is dearth of research on seam quality for woven linen shirting fabric using commercial grade sewing thread and engineering of prediction regression model for the estimation of seam efficiency by using process parameters, namely, fabric G, thread size and thread density and their interaction.


2021 ◽  
pp. 004051752110174
Author(s):  
Zafar Javed ◽  
Fayyaz Ahmad ◽  
Qammar Khan ◽  
M Salman Naeem ◽  
M Usman Javaid ◽  
...  

This research work aims at modeling the sewing thread consumption for stitch class 301 through image analysis by using Fourier series. A mathematical model was developed by using the geometry of stitch class 301 for calculating sewing thread consumption. The modeling of stitch class 301 was conducted by changing the stitch density and thickness of the stitched fabric. The stitch density was adjusted by varying the stitch length (2, 3 and 4 mm) and the thickness of stitched fabric (2, 3 and 4 plies of fabric).The interlacement of sewing thread between the needle and bobbin was used for the measurement of arc length of one stitch. The total consumption of sewing thread was determined by multiplying the arc length by 4. The developed model was verified by using nine different stitched samples for comparing the predicted and measured values of sewing thread consumption. This model predicted the sewing thread consumption with 95% accuracy. Error percentages were also calculated for determining the major influencing factors that affected the sewing thread consumption. The proposed model can effectively be employed in garment industries for determining sewing thread consumption.


2019 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Morteza Bayat ◽  
Mostafa Khanzadi ◽  
Farnad Nasirzadeh ◽  
Ali Chavoshian

Purpose This study aims to determine the optimal value of concession period length in combination with capital structure in build–operate–transfer (BOT) contracts, based on direct negotiation procurement and considering the conflicting financial interests of different parties involved in the project. Design/methodology/approach The financial model of a BOT project is developed considering all the influencing factors. Then, fuzzy set theory is used to take into account the existing risks and uncertainties. Bilateral bargaining game based on alternating-offers protocol is applied between the government and the sponsor to divide project financial benefit considering the lender’s requirements. Finally, concession period and equity level will be determined simultaneously according to the sponsor’s and government’s share of project financial benefit and the lender’s requirements. Findings The proposed model is implemented on a real case study, and a fair and efficient agreement on concession period length and capital structure is achieved between the government and the sponsor considering the lender’s requirements. It is revealed that being the first proposer in the bargaining process will affect the concession period length; however, it will not affect the equity level. Moreover, it is shown that considering income tax as a part of government’s financial benefit increases the length of concession period. Research limitations/implications The presented model concentrates on direct negotiation procurement in BOT projects where the sponsor and government bargain on dividing financial benefits of project. It is assumed that the product/service price is determined before according to market analysis or users’ affordability. All the revenue of project during concession period is assumed to belong to the sponsor. Practical implications The proposed model provides a practical tool to aid BOT participants to reach a fair and efficient agreement on concession period and capital structure. This could prevent failing or prolonging the negotiation and costly renegotiation. Originality/value By investigation of previous studies, it is revealed that none of them can determine the optimal value of concession period length and capital structure simultaneously considering the BOT negotiation process and different financial interests of parties involved in the project. The proposed model presents a new approach to determine the financial variables considering the conflicting interests of involved parties. The other novelty aspects of the presented model are as follows: introducing a new approach for calculating the sponsor and the government’s share of project financial benefit that will affect the determination of the concession period length and considering the effect of existing risks and uncertainties on final agreement between the involved parties using fuzzy set theory.


Sensor Review ◽  
2015 ◽  
Vol 35 (1) ◽  
pp. 43-50 ◽  
Author(s):  
Huigang Xiao ◽  
Min Liu ◽  
Jinbao Jiang

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to study the effect of alignment of conductive particles on the piezoresistivity of composite based on a theoretical model. The piezoresistivity of composite is associated with the characteristics of conductive network formed by the conductive particles distributed in the composite, which can be changed through aligning the conductive particles. Design/methodology/approach – The orientations of the tunnel resistors formed by each two adjacent conductive particles are dependent on the aligned level of the conductive particles, and different orientations induce different deformations for a tunnel resistor under external strain, which determines the piezoresistivity of the composites. To investigate the resistance behavior of composites with various characteristics of conductive networks, a piezoresistivity model is developed in this paper by considering the aligned level of conductive particles. Findings – The results obtained from the proposed piezoresistivity model indicate that the sensitivity and stability of composites can be enhanced through aligning the conductive particles. Also, the piezoresistivity of composites filled with randomly distributed conductive particles is isotropic, and it turns to be anisotropic when the conductive particles are aligned. Originality/value – The change and its mechanism of the piezoresistivity upon the aligned level of conductive particles have been pointed out in this paper based on the proposed model. The achievement of this paper will help the people understand, predict and optimize the piezoresistivity of composites, and provide a new approach to design a strain sensor based on the piezoresistivity.


2021 ◽  
Vol 14 ◽  
Author(s):  
Patience Danquah Monnie ◽  
Docea Fianu ◽  
Efua Vandyck

Background: The serviceability of a sewn garment is influenced by the quality of its seams, which form the basic structural element. The factors that affect seam quality in garments includes, sewing thread type and stitch density. Their right choice helps with the achievement of quality seams in garments. However, the choice of suitable sewing threads and stitch densities for particular fabrics can only be determined through testing. Objective: Problems associated with poor performance of school uniforms include seam failure. The aim of the study was to determine sewing thread brand and stitch density suitable for seams for a selected fabric (79% polyester and 21% cotton) for Ghanaian public basic school uniforms. Method: A 2×3 factorial design was employed which involved two brands of sewing threads labelled Aʹ and Bʹ and three range of stitch density, 10, 12 and 14. The total number of specimens prepared from the selected fabric was 81. The parameters investigated included fabric weight, strength and elongation, seam strength, seam elongation and efficiency. The data were analysed using the Predictive Analytic Software (SPSS). Means and standard deviations of the fabric’s yarn count, weight, strength, elongation and the linear density of the sewing threads were determined. Analysis of Variance and Independent samples t-test at 0.05 alpha levels were employed in testing the hypotheses. Results: Differences for seam strength, efficiency and elongation were significant for the two sewing thread brands and the three stitch densities in both warp and weft directions of the fabric sample. The sewing thread brand B′ with stitch density 14 performed best in terms of seam strength, elongation and efficiency. Conclusion: The sewing thread brand B′ and stitch density 14 are recommended to be used for the construction of uniforms with the selected fabric to achieve quality in uniforms.


Kybernetes ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 46 (1) ◽  
pp. 17-37
Author(s):  
Jaime Gil Aluja

Purpose This work aims to ask for the possibility to establish one or more Europes in a heterogeneous territory where the main goal is to create a common space. The use of a specific methodology will help us to know whether it is possible to apply general policies in the whole territory or it will be necessary to adapt them to a different group of spaces. Design/methodology/approach Taking into account the experts’ opinions, causality relationships, grouping processes and distances techniques can be obtained to get an overall view of different groups of areas where it will be possible to develop the specific policies successfully. Findings Theoretically, the proposed model using fuzzy logic in grouping processes presents significant results that contribute to the theory on regional development. Originality/value This paper provides a new approach to solve the territorial problem to apply the European policies. Introducing these techniques, one will be able to approach the different positions to the specific areas in Europe to create a peaceful and harmonic space of cohabitation.


2020 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhaleh Memari ◽  
Abbas Rezaei Pandari ◽  
Mohammad Ehsani ◽  
Shokufeh Mahmudi

PurposeTo understand the football industry in its entirety, a supply chain management (SCM) approach is necessary. This includes the study of suppliers, consumers and their collaborations. The purpose of this study was to present a business management model based on supply chain management.Design/methodology/approachData were collected through in-depth interviews with 12 academic and executive football experts. After three steps of open, axial and selective coding based on grounded theory with a paradigmatic approach, the data were analysed, and a football supply chain management (FSCM) was developed. The proposed model includes three managerial components: upstream suppliers, the manufacturing firm, and downstream customers.FindingsThe football industry sector has three parts: upstream suppliers, manufacturing firm/football clubs and downstream customers. We proposed seven parts for the managerial processes of football supply chain management: event/match management, club management, resource and infrastructure management, customer relationship management, supplier relationship management, cash flow management and knowledge and information flow management. This model can be used for configuration, coordination and redesign of business operations as well as the development of models for evaluation of the football supply chain's performance.Originality/valueThe proposed model of a football supply chain management, with the existing literature and theoretical review, created a synergistic outcome. This synergy is presented in the linkage of the players in this chain and interactions between them. This view can improve the management of industry productivity and improve the products quality.


2020 ◽  
Vol 16 (3) ◽  
pp. 263-290
Author(s):  
Hui Guan ◽  
Chengzhen Jia ◽  
Hongji Yang

Since computing semantic similarity tends to simulate the thinking process of humans, semantic dissimilarity must play a part in this process. In this paper, we present a new approach for semantic similarity measuring by taking consideration of dissimilarity into the process of computation. Specifically, the proposed measures explore the potential antonymy in the hierarchical structure of WordNet to represent the dissimilarity between concepts and then combine the dissimilarity with the results of existing methods to achieve semantic similarity results. The relation between parameters and the correlation value is discussed in detail. The proposed model is then applied to different text granularity levels to validate the correctness on similarity measurement. Experimental results show that the proposed approach not only achieves high correlation value against human ratings but also has effective improvement to existing path-distance based methods on the word similarity level, in the meanwhile effectively correct existing sentence similarity method in some cases in Microsoft Research Paraphrase Corpus and SemEval-2014 date set.


2019 ◽  
Vol 34 (6) ◽  
pp. 429-442 ◽  
Author(s):  
Manuel London

Purpose Drawing on existing theory, a model is developed to illustrate how the interaction between leaders and followers similarity in narcissism and goal congruence may influence subgroup formation in teams, and how this interaction influences team identification and team performance. Design/methodology/approach The proposed model draws on dominance complementary, similarity attraction, faultline formation and trait activation theories. Findings Leader–follower similarity in narcissism and goal congruence may stimulate subgroup formation, possibly resulting in conformers, conspirators, outsiders and victims, especially when performance pressure on a team is high. Followers who are low in narcissism and share goals with a leader who is narcissistic are likely to become conformers. Followers who are high in narcissism and share goals with a narcissistic leader are likely to become confederates. Followers who do not share goals with a narcissistic leader will be treated by the leader and other members as outsiders if they are high in narcissism, and victimized if they are low in narcissism. In addition, the emergence of these subgroups leads to reduced team identification and lower team performance. Practical implications Higher level managers, coaches and human resource professions can assess and, if necessary, counteract low team identification and performance resulting from the narcissistic personality characteristics of leaders and followers. Originality/value The model addresses how and under what conditions narcissistic leaders and followers may influence subgroup formation and team outcomes.


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