scholarly journals Around the Cusp Singularity and the Breaking of Waves

Leonardo ◽  
2014 ◽  
Vol 47 (1) ◽  
pp. 80-82 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Tejerina-Risso ◽  
P. Le Gal

WAVES is an “Art-Science” project on water surface waves. The authors aim to visualize the behaviour of water waves during their evolution: generation, focusing and breaking. Relying on the general property of waves to focus when properly generated or reflected, the authors use a parabolically shaped wave maker to focus water waves in a region of the water surface called the Huygens cusp in optics and then record these breakings using a fast video camera. A novel and spectacular vision of wave breakings is obtained when playing at slow speed.

Author(s):  
Christoph S. Funke ◽  
Marc P. Buckley ◽  
Larissa K.P. Schultze ◽  
Fabrice Veron ◽  
Mary-Louise E. Timmermans ◽  
...  

AbstractThe quantification of pressure fields in the airflow over water waves is fundamental for understanding the coupling of the atmosphere and the ocean. The relationship between the pressure field, and the water surface slope and velocity, are crucial in setting the fluxes of momentum and energy. However, quantifying these fluxes is hampered by difficulties in measuring pressure fields at the wavy air-water interface. Here we utilise results from laboratory experiments of wind-driven surface waves. The data consist of particle image velocimetry of the airflow combined with laser-induced fluorescence of the water surface. These data were then used to develop a pressure field reconstruction technique based on solving a pressure Poisson equation in the airflow above water waves. The results allow for independent quantification of both the viscous stress and pressure-induced form drag components of the momentum flux. Comparison of these with an independent bulk estimate of the total momentum flux (based on law-of-the-wall theory) shows that the momentum budget is closed to within approximately 5%. In the partitioning of the momentum flux between viscous and pressure drag components, we find a greater influence of form drag at high wind speeds and wave slopes. An analysis of the various approximations and assumptions made in the pressure reconstruction, along with the corresponding sources of error, is also presented.


2021 ◽  
Vol 0 (0) ◽  
pp. 0
Author(s):  
Jing Cui ◽  
Guangyue Gao ◽  
Shu-Ming Sun

<p style='text-indent:20px;'>The paper concerns the controllability and stabilization of surface water waves in a two-dimensional rectangular basin under the forces of gravity and surface tension. The surface waves are generated by a wave-maker placed at the left side-boundary and it is physical relevant to see whether the surface waves are controllable or can be stabilized using appropriate motion of the wave-maker. Due to the surface tension, an edge condition must be imposed at the contact point between the free surface and a solid boundary. Two types of wave-makers are considered: "flexible" or "rigid". It is shown that the surface waves are approximately controllable, but not exactly controllable, for both "flexible" and "rigid" wave-makers. In addition, under a static feedback to control a "rigid" wave-maker, the strong stability of feedback control system is obtained.</p>


Behaviour ◽  
2013 ◽  
Vol 150 (5) ◽  
pp. 471-483 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gerlinde Höbel ◽  
Robb C. Kolodziej

The ability to sense water surface waves has been described in only a few species, but across a wide taxonomic range. Water surface waves are typically used to localize prey or to avoid predators, and in some cases also for sexual communication. Here we add to the sparse knowledge of the use of this sensory modality by reporting observational and experimental evidence that wood frogs (Lithobates sylvaticus) respond to water surface waves generated by conspecifics; that there are pronounced differences in response between males and females; and that they use surface waves in a behavioural context not previously reported for anuran reproductive behaviour: sexual eavesdropping. Because the water waves that elicit the described responses are incidental by-products of calling and locomotion behaviour, we consider this an example of sexual eavesdropping rather than sexual communication. Males quickly and accurately approach a surface wave source, thus aiding in mate acquisition which in this species is mainly achieved by scramble competition. By contrast, females move away from a surface wave source. This may help them avoid sexual harassment by mate-searching males. Because it assures that only the fastest, strongest, and potentially fittest males can amplex them, it may also be a strategy for indirect mate choice by females.


AIP Advances ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (1) ◽  
pp. 015336
Author(s):  
Jia-Yi Zhang ◽  
Ting Liu ◽  
Jia Tao ◽  
Ya-Xian Fan ◽  
Zhi-Yong Tao
Keyword(s):  

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (21) ◽  
pp. 3618
Author(s):  
Stanislav Ermakov ◽  
Vladimir Dobrokhotov ◽  
Irina Sergievskaya ◽  
Ivan Kapustin

The role of wave breaking in microwave backscattering from the sea surface is a problem of great importance for the development of theories and methods on ocean remote sensing, in particular for oil spill remote sensing. Recently it has been shown that microwave radar return is determined by both Bragg and non-Bragg (non-polarized) scattering mechanisms and some evidence has been given that the latter is associated with wave breaking, in particular, with strong breaking such as spilling or plunging. However, our understanding of mechanisms of the action of strong wave breaking on small-scale wind waves (ripples) and thus on the radar return is still insufficient. In this paper an effect of suppression of radar backscattering after strong wave breaking has been revealed experimentally and has been attributed to the wind ripple suppression due to turbulence generated by strong wave breaking. The experiments were carried out in a wind wave tank where a frequency modulated wave train of intense meter-decimeter-scale surface waves was generated by a mechanical wave maker. The wave train was compressed according to the gravity wave dispersion relation (“dispersive focusing”) into a short-wave packet at a given distance from the wave maker. Strong wave breaking with wave crest overturning (spilling) occurred for one or two highest waves in the packet. Short decimeter-centimeter-scale wind waves were generated at gentle winds, simultaneously with the long breaking waves. A Ka-band scatterometer was used to study microwave backscattering from the surface waves in the tank. The scatterometer looking at the area of wave breaking was mounted over the tank at a height of about 1 m above the mean water level, the incidence angle of the microwave radiation was about 50 degrees. It has been obtained that the radar return in the presence of short wind waves is characterized by the radar Doppler spectrum with a peak roughly centered in the vicinity of Bragg wave frequencies. The radar return was strongly enhanced in a wide frequency range of the radar Doppler spectrum when a packet of long breaking waves arrived at the area irradiated by the radar. After the passage of breaking waves, the radar return strongly dropped and then slowly recovered to the initial level. Measurements of velocities in the upper water layer have confirmed that the attenuation of radar backscattering after wave breaking is due to suppression of short wind waves by turbulence generated in the breaking zone. A physical analysis of the effect has been presented.


Geophysics ◽  
1951 ◽  
Vol 16 (1) ◽  
pp. 63-80 ◽  
Author(s):  
Milton B. Dobrin

A non‐mathematical summary is presented of the published theories and observations on dispersion, i.e., variation of velocity with frequency, in surface waves from earthquakes and in waterborne waves from shallow‐water explosions. Two further instances are cited in which dispersion theory has been used in analyzing seismic data. In the seismic refraction survey of Bikini Atoll, information on the first 400 feet of sediments below the lagoon bottom could not be obtained from ground wave first arrival times because shot‐detector distances were too great. Dispersion in the water waves, however, gave data on speed variations in the bottom sediments which made possible inferences on the recent geological history of the atoll. Recent systematic observations on ground roll from explosions in shot holes have shown dispersion in the surface waves which is similar in many ways to that observed in Rayleigh waves from distant earthquakes. Classical wave theory attributes Rayleigh wave dispersion to the modification of the waves by a surface layer. In the case of earthquakes, this layer is the earth’s crust. In the case of waves from shot‐holes, it is the low‐speed weathered zone. A comparison of observed ground roll dispersion with theory shows qualitative agreement, but it brings out discrepancies attributable to the fact that neither the theory for liquids nor for conventional solids applies exactly to unconsolidated near‐surface rocks. Additional experimental and theoretical study of this type of surface wave dispersion may provide useful information on the properties of the surface zone and add to our knowledge of the mechanism by which ground roll is generated in seismic shooting.


1995 ◽  
Vol 18 (6) ◽  
pp. 438-444 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Bonmarin ◽  
F. Bartholin ◽  
A. Ramamonjiarisoa

1985 ◽  
Vol 150 ◽  
pp. 311-327 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. S. Berman ◽  
T. S. Lundgren ◽  
A. Cheng

Experimental and analytical results are presented for the self-excited oscillations that occur in a partially filled centrifuge when centrifugal forces interact with shallow-water waves. Periodic and aperiodic modulations of the basic whirl phenomena are both observed and calculated. The surface waves are found to be hydraulic jumps, undular bores or solitary waves.


1999 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christian M. Senet ◽  
Nicole Braun ◽  
Philipp A. Lange ◽  
Joerg Seemann ◽  
Heiko Dankert ◽  
...  

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