ZIVILISATIONSFLUCHTFANTASIEN IN COTTAGECORE UND HAUTE COUTURE

POP ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 10 (2) ◽  
pp. 21-27
Author(s):  
Maren Lickhardt
Keyword(s):  
Author(s):  
Paul Brooker ◽  
Margaret Hayward

The Armani high-fashion example illustrates the importance of adaptive rational methods in his founding and developing of an iconic high-fashion firm. Armani adapted stylistically to fashion’s new times in the 1970–80s by creating a new style catering for the career woman. His stylistic adaptation is compared with that of another famous Italian fashion designer, Versace, who instead modernized haute couture fashion and created a succession of glamourous styles. Both leaders exploited the same opportunity but in different ways. The third section compares these leaders’ legacies in the 1990s–2000s and assesses from a long-term perspective how capably they had used adaptive rational methods. The final section shifts the focus from fashion to the cosmetics industry and from Italy to the UK. Anita Roddick used adaptive rational methods to establish The Body Shop corporation in the 1970s–80s. However, she then abandoned rational methods with dire results for her corporation in the 1990s.


Author(s):  
Josefina Vidal M ◽  
Macarena García O ◽  
Pedro Álvarez C

Abstract In the second half of the 1960s, prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) fashion was established in Chile. As an alternative to haute couture (high fashion), prêt-à-porter brought an eagerness for modernisation that was reflected in the setting up of a network of women-led boutiques, which developed strongly between 1967 and 1973. This article first examines the precedents that allowed for the creation of a ‘local fashion system’ that promoted collective work around trades such as knitting and dressmaking. It also analyses the arrangement of a circuit of boutiques in the comuna of Providencia, a strategic sector of Santiago de Chile (the capital city) that fostered the dynamics of social gathering. Later, the article describes the profile of the designer-entrepreneurs whose work was attuned to a female consumer segment that aimed to access a new formula of the modernising bourgeoisie. It also reassesses the rise of a movement called Moda Autóctona, which distanced itself from European fashion and was supported by the government during the socialist regime of Salvador Allende. Lastly, it tackles the eventual dismantling of this network of women’s fashion stores as a result of the installation of a military dictatorship in Chile.


2021 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 65
Author(s):  
Mitariani - ◽  
I Nyoman Artayasa ◽  
Nyoman Dewi Pebryani

Indonesia is a country which has a diversity of flora and fauna. One of the endemic faunas of Indonesia is the Javan Gibbon. The Javan Gibbon (Hylobates Moloch) is a species of small ape without a tail with long arms, gray hair, and a distinctive voice. The Javan gibbon is an animal that is startining become endangered animal and almost extinct so that the IUCN Redlist has categorized as an  "endangered" or threatened extinct. Javan Gibbons are the source of ideas for creating ready-to-wear, ready-to-wear deluxe and haute couture clothing which are implemented with metaphorical theory based on selected keywords, namely diurnal, arboreal, monogamous, territorial, sound, long sleeves, attracting attention and art of beat. The foundation of this fashion creation is using the method of. Tjok Istri Ratna Cora Sudharsana, namely Frangipani. “FRANGIPANI, The Secret Steps of Art Fashion” which consists of ten stages in the process of crafty fashion designs. The result of this creation is expected to be able to introduce to many people that Indonesia has the Javan Gibbon as an endemic animal of Indonesia that must be preserved in order that it does not become extinct. 


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