Wave Breaking, Bubble Production and Acoustic Characteristics of the Surf Zone, SIO Component

2001 ◽  
Author(s):  
Grant B. Deane
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Acoustic Characteristics ◽  
Bubble Production

scholarly journals LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON THE INFLUENCE OF WIND ON NEARSHORE WAVE BREAKING

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Scott L. Douglass ◽  
J. Richard Weggel
Keyword(s):  
Wind Direction ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Tank ◽  
Zone Width

The influence of wind on nearshore breaking waves was investigated in a laboratory wave tank. Breaker location, geometry, and type depended upon the wind acting on the wave as it broke. Onshore winds tended to cause waves to break earlier, in deeper water, and to spill: offshore winds tended to cause waves to break later, in shallower water, and to plunge. A change in wind direction from offshore to onshore increased the surf zone width by up to 100%. Wind's effect was greatest for waves which were near the transition between breaker types in the absence of wind. For onshore winds, it was observed that microscale breaking can initiate spilling breaking by providing a perturbation on the crest of the underlying wave as it shoals.

scholarly journals Quantifying wave breaking shape and suspended sediment in the surf zone

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Patrick Dickhudt ◽  
Nicholas Spore ◽  
Katherine Brodie ◽  
A. Bak
Keyword(s):  
Suspended Sediment ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone

scholarly journals BATHYMETRY INVERSION IN THE SURF ZONE VIA ASSIMILATION OF REMOTELY SENSED WAVE BREAKING ENERGY DISSIPATION

2020 ◽  
pp. 26
Author(s):  
Francisco Soto ◽  
Patricio Catalan
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Remote Sensing Data ◽  
Depth Measurement ◽  
Unique Data ◽  
Uncertain Model ◽  
Data Source ◽  
Breaking Energy ◽  
Spurious Signals

In this work, a data assimilation approach treating bathymetry as an uncertain model parameter, is introduced where direct dissipation estimates from remote sensing data are the unique data source. Two dimensional wave breaking dissipation fields are retrieved on a wave-by-wave basis with the algorithms of Daz et al. (2018), who were able to reliably estimate breaking dissipation by removing spurious signals affecting electro-optical and microwave data. After a six hour application, the system was able to retrieve improved bathymetric estimates, without any in situ depth measurement. A prominent feature of this approach is its ability to reliably capture the amplitude and position of nearshore sandbars.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/Y7mgiSvmRYc

scholarly journals Wave Breaking of Sinusoidal Waves in the Surf Zone

2004 ◽  
Vol 37 (6) ◽  
pp. 461-466
Author(s):  
Jong-Kil Hwang ◽  
Young-Taek Kim ◽  
Yong-Sik Cho
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone

scholarly journals A Data-Driven Approach to Classifying Wave Breaking in Infrared Imagery

2019 ◽  
Vol 11 (7) ◽  
pp. 859 ◽  
Author(s):  
Daniel Buscombe ◽  
Roxanne J. Carini
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Image Features ◽  
Image Feature ◽  
Front Face ◽  
Infrared Imagery ◽  
Deep Convolutional Neural Networks ◽  
Back Face ◽  
Data Driven Approach ◽  
Close Range

We apply deep convolutional neural networks (CNNs) to estimate wave breaking type (e.g., non-breaking, spilling, plunging) from close-range monochrome infrared imagery of the surf zone. Image features are extracted using six popular CNN architectures developed for generic image feature extraction. Logistic regression on these features is then used to classify breaker type. The six CNN-based models are compared without and with augmentation, a process that creates larger training datasets using random image transformations. The simplest model performs optimally, achieving average classification accuracies of 89% and 93%, without and with image augmentation respectively. Without augmentation, average classification accuracies vary substantially with CNN model. With augmentation, sensitivity to model choice is minimized. A class activation analysis reveals the relative importance of image features to a given classification. During its passage, the front face and crest of a spilling breaker are more important than the back face. For a plunging breaker, the crest and back face of the wave are most important, which suggests that CNN-based models utilize the distinctive ‘streak’ temperature patterns observed on the back face of plunging breakers for classification.

Lagrangian Drifter Dispersion in the Surf Zone: Directionally Spread, Normally Incident Waves

2009 ◽  
Vol 39 (4) ◽  
pp. 809-830 ◽  
Author(s):  
Matthew Spydell ◽  
Falk Feddersen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Circulation Model ◽  
Particle Dispersion ◽  
Energy Cascade ◽  
Relative Dispersion ◽  
Length Scales ◽  
Inverse Energy Cascade ◽  
Rotational Components ◽  
Lagrangian Drifter

Abstract Lagrangian drifter statistics in a surf zone wave and circulation model are examined and compared to single- and two-particle dispersion statistics observed on an alongshore uniform natural beach with small, normally incident, directionally spread waves. Drifter trajectories are modeled with a time-dependent Boussinesq wave model that resolves individual waves and parameterizes wave breaking. The model reproduces the cross-shore variation in wave statistics observed at three cross-shore locations. In addition, observed and modeled Eulerian binned (means and standard deviations) drifter velocities agree. Modeled surf zone Lagrangian statistics are similar to those observed. The single-particle (absolute) dispersion statistics are well predicted, including nondimensionalized displacement probability density functions (PDFs) and the growth of displacement variance with time. The modeled relative dispersion and scale-dependent diffusivity is consistent with the observed and indicates the presence of a 2D turbulent flow field. The model dispersion is due to the rotational components of the modeled velocity field, indicating the importance of vorticity in driving surf zone dispersion. Modeled irrotational velocities have little dispersive capacity. Surf zone vorticity is generated by finite crest-length wave breaking that results, on the alongshore uniform bathymetry, from a directionally spread wave field. The generated vorticity then cascades to other length scales as in 2D turbulence. Increasing the wave directional spread results in increased surf zone vorticity variability and surf zone dispersion. Eulerian and Lagrangian analysis of the flow indicate that the surf zone is 2D turbulent-like with an enstrophy cascade for length scales between approximately 5 and 10 m and an inverse-energy cascade for scales of 20 to 100 m. The vorticity injection length scale (the transition between enstrophy and inverse-energy cascade) is a function of the wave directional spread.

Research and Analysis on the Wave Transformation and Irregular Wave Breaking Criterion on the Shore

2016 ◽  
Vol 858 ◽  
pp. 354-358
Author(s):  
Tao You ◽  
Li Ping Zhao ◽  
Zheng Xiao ◽  
Lun Chao Huang ◽  
Xiao Rui Han
Keyword(s):  
Theoretical Model ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Irregular Wave

Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height variation caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction, and about the wave breaking criterion under regular and irregular breaking waves. Flume experiments relating to the regular and irregular breaking wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. The agreement is good between the theoretical and experimental results.

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