Sea wave propagation from offshore to Maputo's coast. Application to longshore sediment transport assessment

2014 ◽  
Vol 69 (12) ◽  
pp. 2438-2445
Author(s):  
Cristina N. A. Viola ◽  
Manel Grifoll ◽  
Jaime Palalane ◽  
Tiago C. A. Oliveira
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Coastal Region ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Mesh Resolution ◽  
Offshore Wave

This study aims to characterize the wave climate near the coastal region of Maputo (Mozambique), and to provide a first assessment of the sediment transport load in this area. A time-series of 13 years' worth of offshore wave data, obtained from reanalysis products, was propagated to the coast. Wave propagation was performed using Linear Wave theory and the numerical model, Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN). Propagations with SWAN were carried out considering different scenarios in order to evaluate the influence of parameters such as wind, tidal level, frequency spectrum and numerical mesh resolution on wave characteristics along the coast. The prevalent waves propagated came from between east and southwest directions. Results from linear propagation were used to estimate the potential longshore sediment transport. The Coastal Engineering Research Center formula was applied for a stretch of beach in the Machangulo Peninsula. A net potential rate of longitudinal sediment transport (of the order of 105 m3/year, along an extension of the coast of 21 km) was directed northwards, and was consistent with the frequent wave directions.

scholarly journals LONGSHORE TRANSPORT AT A TOTAL LITTORAL BARRIER

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 70 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard O. Bruno ◽  
Christopher G. Gable
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Accurate Determination ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Channel Islands ◽  
Shore Protection ◽  
Material Transport ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport

Analysis of longshore transport at a littoral barrier is presented. Channel Islands Harbor, California was selected as the study site because its offshore breakwater and jetties form a unique complete littoral barrier. Through repetitive surveys an accurate determination of longshore material transport in one direction was made. Measured transport rates ranged from 160,000 to 1,284,000 cubic meters per year. Utilizing visual observations of surf parameters, estimates of longshore wave thrust were computed. The range of wave thrust was 145 to 1,988 Newtons per meter. Comparison of the relation of wave thrust and longshore sediment transport is made. This study indicates that in an environment of high transport, nearly twice as much transport is predicted tinder corresponding wave thrust as that of the data summarized in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Shore Protection Manual.

scholarly journals Future wave-climate driven longshore sediment transport along the Indian coast

2020 ◽  
Vol 162 (2) ◽  
pp. 405-424
Author(s):  
Piyali Chowdhury ◽  
Manasa Ranjan Behera ◽  
Dominic E. Reeve
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Indian Coast ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport

COASTAL MODELING FOR REGIONAL SEDIMENT BUDGET IN WEST MAUI, HAWAII

2017 ◽  
pp. 14
Author(s):  
Lihwa Lin ◽  
Zeki Demirbilek ◽  
Jessica Podoski ◽  
Thomas Smith ◽  
Lihwa Lin
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Mountainous Terrain ◽  
The West ◽  
Coastal Modeling ◽  
Eddy Formation ◽  
Coastal Margin ◽  
Limited Supply ◽  
Offshore Wave

The West Maui Region incorporates a thin coastal margin backed by steep mountainous terrain that has been vastly altered by agricultural and urbanized development. Coastline includes headlands and reefs with a very limited supply of sediment. Shoreline was found to be erosional chronically based on average rates. The dynamics of the area are complex with a wave climate affected by intricate bathymetry, wind, and island sheltering. Longshore currents vary locally and temporally from nearshore to offshore. Wave and current modeling indicates that large waves in the summer and winter have driven the majority of sediment transport along the coast. The littoral transport is essentially northward in summer and southward in winter. The net transport of longshore sediment is overall small. The nearshore eddy formation with wave breaking nearshore over narrow sandy bed and wide reefs may increase the complexity of sediment movement within the region.

Implications of delta retreat on wave propagation and longshore sediment transport - Guadalfeo case study (southern Spain)

2016 ◽  
Vol 382 ◽  
pp. 1-16 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rafael J. Bergillos ◽  
Alejandro López-Ruiz ◽  
Miguel Ortega-Sánchez ◽  
Gerd Masselink ◽  
Miguel A. Losada
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Southern Spain ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport

scholarly journals LONGSHORE TRANSPORT EVALUATIONS AT A DETACHED BREAKWATER

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 86 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.O. Bruno ◽  
R.G. Dean ◽  
C.G. Gable
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Pressure Transducers ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Wave Energy Flux ◽  
Correlation Constant ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
The Waves

A field experiment was conducted by the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) to develop correlations between wave characteristics and longshore sediment transport. The waves were measured by two near-bottom mounted pressure transducers and the average longshore sediment transport rates were determined from sequential volumetric surveys behind an offshore breakwater which was regarded as a total trap. The data analyzed herein encompass a period of nine months during which a total accumulation of 675,000 m3 occurred as documented by eight surveys. Spectral analyses of the wave data were conducted and yielded one direction per frequency. The correlations include immersed weight sediment transport rate, I, versus (1) longshore component of wave energy flux at breaking, P&Sf and (2) the onshore flux of the longshore component of wave-induced momentum, S „. The most widely used correlation constant, K, in the relationship I = KPjig is 0,77. The best-fit values found from the data were K = 0.65 and 0.92 for linear and log best-fits, respectively, as based on the p£s values directed toward the trap. The corresponding values of KA (dimensional) relating I and Sxv are 4.98 m/s and 6.37 m/s, respectively. One feature of this type of trap is the potential for overtrapping if the waves are directed nearly normal to shore.

scholarly journals Sediment Transport Beyond the Surf Zone Under Waves and Currents of the Non-Tidal Sea: Lubiatowo (Poland) Case Study

2016 ◽  
Vol 63 (1) ◽  
pp. 63-77 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rafał Ostrowski ◽  
Magdalena Stella
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Coastal Region ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Soil Parameters ◽  
Shear Stresses ◽  
Research Station ◽  
Sea Bed ◽  
Waves And Currents ◽  
Bed Changes

Abstract The paper deals with the sandy coastal zone at Lubiatowo in Poland (the south Baltic Sea). The study comprises experimental and theoretical investigations of hydrodynamic and lithodynamic processes in the coastal region located close to the seaward boundary of the surf zone and beyond the surf zone. The analysis is based on field data collected at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo. The data consist of wind velocity reconstructed from the long-term wave climate, deep-water wave buoy records and sea bottom soil parameters. Nearbed flow velocities induced by waves and currents, as well as bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for various conditions to determine sediment motion regimes in the considered area. The paper discusses the possibility of occasional intensive sediment transport and the occurrence of distinct sea bed changes at bigger water depths.

scholarly journals SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND BEACH TRANSFORMATION

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 88 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tomoya Shibayama ◽  
Kiyoshi Horikawa
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Wave Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Field Investigations ◽  
Transport Calculation ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Profile Change

Laboratory and field investigations were performed in order to formulate a predictive model of two-dimensional beach profile change. The observed transport was classified into six types, and transport formulas were deduced for each type based on a microscale description of sediment movement caused by wave action. A numerical model of two-dimensional beach transformation was then developed. Beach profile changes calculated with the model were then compared with the laboratory results. The model was found to give reasonable results except in the vicinity of the wave plunging point. The sediment transport calculation is based on a sinusoidal velocity profile. The model appeares to give good results as long as the wave motion can be reasonably approximated by linear wave theory.

scholarly journals MODELING SEDIMENTATION AT INLET AND COASTAL REGION

1972 ◽  
Vol 1 (13) ◽  
pp. 44
Author(s):  
Pang-Mou Lin
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Coastal Region ◽  
Shear Stresses ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Coastal Regions ◽  
Longshore Sediment Transport ◽  
Flume Tests ◽  
Bed Materials ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
Fluid Characteristic

Sediment transport In the vicinity of inlets and coastal regions depends on the combined bottom shear stresses due to both currents and waves. The modeling of the movement of bedload is controlled by the Proude law, bottom shear stress, wave steepness, and friction factor. Assuming Einstein's theory of bedload function can be applied to this study, an analysis was performed after conducting experiments in the flume and model basin. A series of results obtained from the flume tests is to Insure the relationship between the fluid characteristic and the movement of bedload. The final results concerning the longshore sediment transport appeared satisfactory with the estimated curves. The bottom configurations in the Inlet after each test were also shown satisfactorily similar. The sedimentologlcal time scale for the three bed materials were not In satisfactory agreement, however, more discussion of the results was presented in this paper.

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