scholarly journals The Structure of Performance of a Sport Rock Climber

2013 ◽  
Vol 36 (1) ◽  
pp. 107-117 ◽  
Author(s):  
Artur Magiera ◽  
Robert Roczniok ◽  
Adam Maszczyk ◽  
Miłosz Czuba ◽  
Joanna Kantyka ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Anaerobic Power ◽  
Relative Strength ◽  
Performance Capacity ◽  
Arm Work ◽  
Time Test ◽  
Overall Performance ◽  
Mental Characteristics ◽  
Reaction Time Test ◽  
Aerobic And Anaerobic ◽  
Canonical Weight

This study is a contribution to the discussion about the structure of performance of sport rock climbers. Because of the complex and multifaceted nature of this sport, multivariate statistics were applied in the study. The subjects included thirty experienced sport climbers. Forty three variables were scrutinised, namely somatic characteristics, specific physical fitness, coordination abilities, aerobic and anaerobic power, technical and tactical skills, mental characteristics, as well as 2 variables describing the climber’s performance in the OS (Max OS) and RP style (Max RP). The results show that for training effectiveness of advanced climbers to be thoroughly analysed and examined, tests assessing their physical, technical and mental characteristics are necessary. The three sets of variables used in this study explained the structure of performance similarly, but not identically (in 38, 33 and 25%, respectively). They were also complementary to around 30% of the variance. The overall performance capacity of a sport rock climber (Max OS and Max RP) was also evaluated in the study. The canonical weights of the dominant first canonical root were 0.554 and 0.512 for Max OS and Max RP, respectively. Despite the differences between the two styles of climbing, seven variables - the maximal relative strength of the fingers (canonical weight = 0.490), mental endurance (one of scales : The Formal Characteristics of Behaviour-Temperament Inventory (FCB-TI; Strelau and Zawadzki, 1995)) (-0.410), climbing technique (0.370), isometric endurance of the fingers (0.340), the number of errors in the complex reaction time test (- 0.319), the ape index (-0.319) and oxygen uptake during arm work at the anaerobic threshold (0.254) were found to explain 77% of performance capacity common to the two styles.

Acceptable Levels of Tonal and Broad-Band Repetitive and Continuous Sounds during the Performance of Nonauditory Tasks

1995 ◽  
Vol 81 (3) ◽  
pp. 803-816 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ulf Landström ◽  
Anders Kjellberg ◽  
Marianne Byström
Keyword(s):  
Reaction Time ◽  
Sound Pressure ◽  
Broad Band ◽  
Reaction Time Task ◽  
Simple Reaction Time Task ◽  
Reasoning Test ◽  
Band Noise ◽  
Time Test ◽  
The Difference ◽  
Reaction Time Test

Three groups of 24 subjects were exposed to a 1000–Hz tone or broad band noise in a sound chamber. During the exposures subjects were engaged in an easy reaction time test or a difficult grammatical reasoning test. For each exposure and work subjects adjusted the noise to a tolerance level defined by its interference with task performance. During the simple reaction-time task significantly higher sound-pressure levels were accepted than during the reasoning test. At the tonal exposure, much lower levels were accepted than during the exposure to broad-band noise. For continuous sound exposures much higher levels were accepted than for noncontinuous exposures. For tonal exposures the difference was approximately 5 dB, for the broad-band exposures approximately 9 dB. In a separate study the effects of the noncontinuity of the noise and pauses were analysed. The raised annoying effect of the noncontinuous noise was not more affected by the noncontinuity of the noise periods than by the noncontinuity of the pauses. The results imply that the annoying reactions to the sound will be increased for repetitive noise and that the reaction is highly influenced by the over-all noncontinuity of the exposure.

A mathematical model of performance on a simple reaction time test

1996 ◽  
Vol 18 (5) ◽  
pp. 587-593 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edward F. Krieg ◽  
David W. Chrislip ◽  
John M. Russo
Keyword(s):  
Mathematical Model ◽  
Reaction Time ◽  
Simple Reaction Time ◽  
Simple Reaction ◽  
Time Test ◽  
Reaction Time Test

scholarly journals Response selection in choice reaction time: Test of a buffer model

1980 ◽  
Vol 8 (6) ◽  
pp. 606-611 ◽  
Author(s):  
Steven P. Mewaldt ◽  
Cheryl L. Connelly ◽  
J. Richard Simon
Keyword(s):  
Reaction Time ◽  
Choice Reaction Time ◽  
Response Selection ◽  
Time Test ◽  
Reaction Time Test

Aerobic and Anaerobic Power Distribution During Cross-Country Mountain Bike Racing

2020 ◽  
pp. 1-6
Author(s):  
Bernhard Prinz ◽  
Dieter Simon ◽  
Harald Tschan ◽  
Alfred Nimmerichter
Keyword(s):  
Power Output ◽  
Power Distribution ◽  
Anaerobic Power ◽  
Energy System ◽  
Mountain Bike ◽  
Mean Power ◽  
Anaerobic Energy ◽  
Cross Country ◽  
Mean Power Output ◽  
Aerobic And Anaerobic

Purpose: To determine aerobic and anaerobic demands of mountain bike cross-country racing. Methods: Twelve elite cyclists (7 males;  = 73.8 [2.6] mL·min-1·kg−1, maximal aerobic power [MAP] = 370 [26] W, 5.7 [0.4] W·kg−1, and 5 females;  = 67.3 [2.9] mL·min−1·kg−1, MAP = 261 [17] W, 5.0 [0.1] W·kg−1) participated over 4 seasons at several (119) international and national races and performed laboratory tests regularly to assess their aerobic and anaerobic performance. Power output, heart rate, and cadence were recorded throughout the races. Results: The mean race time was 79 (12) minutes performed at a mean power output of 3.8 (0.4) W·kg−1; 70% (7%) MAP (3.9 [0.4] W·kg−1 and 3.6 [0.4] W·kg−1 for males and females, respectively) with a cadence of 64 (5) rev·min−1 (including nonpedaling periods). Time spent in intensity zones 1 to 4 (below MAP) were 28% (4%), 18% (8%), 12% (2%), and 13% (3%), respectively; 30% (9%) was spent in zone 5 (above MAP). The number of efforts above MAP was 334 (84), which had a mean duration of 4.3 (1.1) seconds, separated by 10.9 (3) seconds with a mean power output of 7.3 (0.6) W·kg−1 (135% [9%] MAP). Conclusions: These findings highlight the importance of the anaerobic energy system and the interaction between anaerobic and aerobic energy systems. Therefore, the ability to perform numerous efforts above MAP and a high aerobic capacity are essential to be competitive in mountain bike cross-country.

Influence of the Cyclist’s Characteristics on the Optimal Pacing Strategy for an Ascending Road

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Manuel Angulo ◽  
Alejandra Polanco ◽  
Luis Muñoz
Keyword(s):  
Aerobic Capacity ◽  
Anaerobic Power ◽  
Anaerobic Capacity ◽  
Power Delivery ◽  
Race Time ◽  
Pacing Strategy ◽  
Pacing Strategies ◽  
Road Grade ◽  
Aerobic And Anaerobic ◽  
Drag Area

Abstract Pacing strategies are used in cycling to optimize the power delivered by the cyclist during a race. Gains in race time have been obtained when using these strategies compared to self-paced approaches. For this reason, this study is focused on revising the effect that the variation of the cyclist’s parameters has on the pacing strategy and its results. A numeric method was used to propose pacing strategies for a cyclist riding on an ascending 3.7 km route with a constant 6.26% road grade. The method was validated and then implemented to study the effect of aerobic and anaerobic power delivery capacity, mass, and drag area on the pacing strategies and their corresponding estimated race times. The results showed that modifying 1% of the aerobic capacity or cyclist mass value led to a change of 1% on the race time. Modifying 1% the anaerobic capacity and the drag area led to changes of 0.03% and 0.02% on the race time, respectively. These results are strongly dependent on the route characteristics. It was concluded that for the studied route (constantly ascending), the variation of the cyclist’s aerobic capacity influences the pacing strategy (i.e., the power delivery over the distance). The anaerobic capacity and mass of the cyclist also influence the pacing strategy to a lesser extent.

scholarly journals Comparison of Mind Control Techniques: An Assessment of Reaction Times

2016 ◽  
Vol 15 (4) ◽  
pp. 596-600
Author(s):  
Varun Malhotra ◽  
Neera Goel ◽  
Usha Dhar ◽  
Rinku Garg ◽  
Yogish Tripathi
Keyword(s):  
Reaction Time ◽  
Single Point ◽  
Medical Science ◽  
Reaction Times ◽  
Devotional Music ◽  
Mind Control ◽  
Visual Reaction ◽  
Time Test ◽  
The Mind ◽  
Reaction Time Test

Background: Every activity requires a certain amount of concentration and no effective action may be performed without deep concentration. Businessman or artists or students in school must know the art of focusing all powers of attention on a single point in order to succeed in their respective vocation.Methods: We wanted to find the best technique to increase the concentration scientifically. We thus, endeavored to study and compare the reaction times in maneuvers of anuloma viloma pranayama, kapalbhatti pranayama, gayatri chanting and exercise. Reaction time test was taken online before anuloma viloma pranayama, kapalbhatti pranayama, gayatri chanting and exercise and compared after.Results: Reaction times decreased significantly and was least during gayatri mantra. Concentration as seen by a decrease in visual reaction time denotes first a withdrawal of attention from objects of distraction and then focusing all attention upon one thing at a time. Just 30 minutes of physical activity each day offers substantial benefits to your health.Conclusions: Pranayama or devotional music chanting also decreases fatigue keeps the mind alert, and active.Bangladesh Journal of Medical Science Vol.15(4) 2016 p.596-600

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