scholarly journals Remarks on the Boundary Conditions for a Serre-Type Model Extended to Intermediate-Waters

Modelling ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 2 (4) ◽  
pp. 626-640
Author(s):  
José Simão Antunes Do Carmo
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Nonlinear Models ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Water Conditions ◽  
Potential Risks ◽  
Bathymetric Changes ◽  
Limited Depth

Numerical models are useful tools for studying complex wave–wave and wave–current interactions in coastal areas. They are also very useful for assessing the potential risks of flooding, hydrodynamic actions on coastal protection structures, bathymetric changes along the coast, and scour phenomena on structures’ foundations. In the coastal zone, there are shallow-water conditions where several nonlinear processes occur. These processes change the flow patterns and interact with the moving bottom. Only fully nonlinear models with the addition of dispersive terms have the potential to reproduce all phenomena with sufficient accuracy. The Boussinesq and Serre models have such characteristics. However, both standard versions of these models are weakly dispersive, being restricted to shallow-water conditions. The need to extend them to deeper waters has given rise to several works that, essentially, add more or fewer terms of dispersive origin. This approach is followed here, giving rise to a set of extended Serre equations up to kh ≈ π. Based on the wavemaker theory, it is also shown that for kh > π/10, the input boundary condition obtained for shallow-waters within the Airy wave theory for 2D waves is not valid. A better estimate for the input wave that satisfies a desired value of kh can be obtained considering a geometrical modification of the conventional shape of the classic piston wavemaker by a limited depth θh, with θ≤ 1.0.

scholarly journals Wave Climate at Shallow Waters along the Abu Dhabi Coast

Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (8) ◽  
pp. 985 ◽  
Author(s):  
Waleed Hamza ◽  
Letizia Lusito ◽  
Francesco Ligorio ◽  
Giuseppe Tomasicchio ◽  
Felice D’Alessandro
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Grid Point ◽  
Arabian Gulf ◽  
Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Abu Dhabi ◽  
Water Conditions ◽  
Key Factor ◽  
Offshore Wave

High-resolution, reliable global atmospheric and oceanic numerical models can represent a key factor in designing a coastal intervention. At the present, two main centers have the capabilities to produce them: the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) in the U.S.A. and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). The NOAA and ECMWF wave models are developed, in particular, for different water regions: deep, intermediate, and shallow water regions using different types of spatial and temporal grids. Recently, in the Arabian Gulf (also named Persian Gulf), the Abu Dhabi Municipality (ADM) installed an ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) to observe the atmospheric and oceanographic conditions (water level, significant wave height, peak wave period, water temperature, and wind speed and direction) at 6 m water depth, in the vicinity of the shoreline of the Saadiyat beach. Courtesy of Abu Dhabi Municipality, this observations dataset is available; the recorded data span the period from June 2015 to January 2018 (included), with a time resolution of 10 min and 30 min for the atmospheric and oceanographic variables, respectively. At the ADCP deployment location (ADMins), the wave climate has been determined using wave propagation of the NOAA offshore wave dataset by means of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) numerical model, the NOAA and ECMWF wave datasets at the closest grid point in shallow water conditions, and the SPM ’84 hindcasting method with the NOAA wind dataset used as input. It is shown that the best agreement with the observed wave climate is obtained using the SPM ’84 hindcasting method for the shallow water conditions.

scholarly journals Numerical Simulation of the Solitary Waves Propagation and Run-up in Shallow Water

2020 ◽  
Vol 37 (6) ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Yu. Belokon ◽  
S. Yu. Mikhailichenko ◽  
◽  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Models ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Nonlinear Effects ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Initial Amplitude ◽  
Constant Depth ◽  
Slope Steepness ◽  
Shallow Basin ◽  
Run Up ◽  
The Waves

Purpose. The paper is aimed at investigating the propagation of solitons in a shallow basin, assessing the nonlinear effects resulting from the wave run-up on a gentle coast, and at comparing the estimates obtained using different numerical models with the available analytical dependencies. Methods and Results. The results of numerical simulations carried out using two nonlinear models of long waves (the author's model and the Simulating WAves till SHore (SWASH) one) are represented in the paper. The solitary wave profiles were obtained during its propagation in the part of a basin with constant depth conjugated with the inclined bottom. The process of a wave run-up on the coast was simulated using the algorithm of fluid movement along a dry coast. It is shown that when a soliton propagates in the basin part with constant depth, the nonlinearity effects are manifested in deformation of a wave profile. In other words, increase of the wave initial amplitude and the distance traveled by a wave is accompanied by growth of the wave front slope steepness. This, in its turn, leads to increase of a splash when the waves run-up on the coast. The estimates of the run-up heights resulted from different numerical models are in good agreement. Conclusions. The calculated values of the maximum wave run-up on the coast for the non-deformed waves, the length of which is equal to that of the traversed path, are close to the estimates obtained analytically. For the waves with the deformed profile, the front slope steepness of which increases with propagation over long distances, the run-up heights increase with growth of the wave initial amplitude. In such a case, it is desirable to replace the analytical estimates with the numerical ones. The run-up height of the deformed waves can exceed the wave initial amplitude by four or more times. The results obtained in this study can be useful in projecting the coastal protection constructions with the regard for preserving the coastal ecology and economy.

Strategies to improve implementation of adaptive management practices for restoration in coastal Louisiana

Shore & Beach ◽  
2020 ◽  
pp. 83-91
Author(s):  
Tim Carruthers ◽  
Richard Raynie ◽  
Alyssa Dausman ◽  
Syed Khalil
Keyword(s):  
Adaptive Management ◽  
Management Practices ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
The United States ◽  
State Agency ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Coastal Restoration ◽  
Management Actions ◽  
Coastal Louisiana ◽  
Restoration Effort

Natural resources of coastal Louisiana support the economies of Louisiana and the whole of the United States. However, future conditions of coastal Louisiana are highly uncertain due to the dynamic processes of the Mississippi River delta, unpredictable storm events, subsidence, sea level rise, increasing temperatures, and extensive historic management actions that have altered natural coastal processes. To address these concerns, a centralized state agency was formed to coordinate coastal protection and restoration effort, the Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority (CPRA). This promoted knowledge centralization and supported informal adaptive management for restoration efforts, at that time mostly funded through the Coastal Wetlands Planning, Protection and Restoration Act (CWPPRA). Since the Deepwater Horizon (DWH) oil spill in 2010 and the subsequent settlement, the majority of restoration funding for the next 15 years will come through one of the DWH mechanisms; Natural Resource and Damage Assessment (NRDA), the RESTORE Council, or National Fish and Wildlife Foundation –Gulf Environmental Benefit Fund (NFWF-GEBF). This has greatly increased restoration effort and increased governance complexity associated with project funding, implementation, and reporting. As a result, there is enhanced impetus to formalize and unify adaptive management processes for coastal restoration in Louisiana. Through synthesis of input from local coastal managers, historical and current processes for project and programmatic implementation and adaptive management were summarized. Key gaps and needs to specifically increase implementation of adaptive management within the Louisiana coastal restoration community were identified and developed into eight tangible and specific recommendations. These were to streamline governance through increased coordination amongst implementing entities, develop a discoverable and practical lessons learned and decision database, coordinate ecosystem reporting, identify commonality of restoration goals, develop a common cross-agency adaptive management handbook for all personnel, improve communication (both in-reach and outreach), have a common repository and clearing house for numerical models used for restoration planning and assessment, and expand approaches for two-way stakeholder engagement throughout the restoration process. A common vision and maximizing synergies between entities can improve adaptive management implementation to maximize ecosystem and community benefits of restoration effort in coastal Louisiana. This work adds to current knowledge by providing specific strategies and recommendations, based upon extensive engagement with restoration practitioners from multiple state and federal agencies. Addressing these practitioner-identified gaps and needs will improve engagement in adaptive management in coastal Louisiana, a large geographic area with high restoration implementation within a complex governance framework.

scholarly journals Kelvin wave hydraulic control induced by interactions between vortices and topography

2011 ◽  
Vol 687 ◽  
pp. 194-208 ◽  
Author(s):  
Andrew McC. Hogg ◽  
William K. Dewar ◽  
Pavel Berloff ◽  
Marshall L. Ward
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Analytical Solutions ◽  
Critical Condition ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Kelvin Waves ◽  
Water Model ◽  
Hydraulic Jumps ◽  
Hydraulic Control ◽  
Kelvin Wave ◽  
Shallow Water Model

AbstractThe interaction of a dipolar vortex with topography is examined using a combination of analytical solutions and idealized numerical models. It is shown that an anticyclonic vortex may generate along-topography flow with sufficient speeds to excite hydraulic control with respect to local Kelvin waves. A critical condition for Kelvin wave hydraulic control is found for the simplest case of a 1.5-layer shallow water model. It is proposed that in the continuously stratified case this mechanism may allow an interaction between low mode vortices and higher mode Kelvin waves, thereby generating rapidly converging isopycnals and hydraulic jumps. Thus, Kelvin wave hydraulic control may contribute to the flux of energy from mesoscale to smaller, unbalanced, scales of motion in the ocean.

Performance of Light Coastal Structures Under Normal and High Water Conditions

1975 ◽  
Vol 2 (4) ◽  
pp. 381-391 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. W. Kamphuis
Keyword(s):  
Lake Erie ◽  
High Water ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Water Conditions ◽  
Protection Structures

A number of lightweight coastal protection structures, built on the Lake Erie shore are discussed in this paper. There were two constraints on the design; limited funds and a very precarious downdrift beach. Thus the structures were inexpensive and the protection was low-key to prevent damage downdrift. In 1972–1974 these structures were subjected to a combination of large waves and high water levels and thus they were tested well beyond their design limits.The paper discusses the structures, their performance under normal conditions, and their performance during and after the abnormally high water levels. It is found that inexpensive, low-key structures are sufficiently strong to survive normal conditions, but fail by overtopping and flanking under conditions beyond their low design limits.

Effects of Cnoidal Wave-Induced Seepage on Vertical Breakwater Resting on Permeable Elastic Seabed

2014 ◽  
Vol 716-717 ◽  
pp. 284-288
Author(s):  
Jian Kang Yang ◽  
Hua Huang ◽  
Lin Guo ◽  
Jing Rong Lin ◽  
Qing Yong Zhu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Cnoidal Wave ◽  
Load Prediction ◽  
Wave Load ◽  
Seepage Pressure ◽  
Theoretical Investigations ◽  
Nonlinearity Effect ◽  
Wave Nonlinearity ◽  
Wave Induced

Theoretical investigations on cnoidal waves interacting with breakwater resting on permeable elastic seabed are presented in this paper. Based on the shallow water reflected wave theory and Biot consolidation theory on wave-induced seepage pressure, the analytical solutions to first order cnoidal wave reflection and wave-induced seepage pressure are obtained by the eigenfunction expansion approach. Numerical results are presented to show the effects of depth of water, breakwater geometry on cnoidal wave-induced seepage uplift force and overturning moment. Compared with Airy wave theory, in certain shallow water conditions, the shallow water wave theory can more effectively illustrate wave nonlinearity effect in wave load prediction.

scholarly journals Upper Arenig trilobite biostratigraphy and sea-level changes at Lynna River near Volkhov, Russia

2003 ◽  
Vol 50 ◽  
pp. 105-114
Author(s):  
T. Hansen ◽  
A.T. Nielsen
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Sea Level Rise ◽  
Sea Level ◽  
Abundance Ratio ◽  
Basal Part ◽  
Sea Level Changes ◽  
Faunal Turnover ◽  
Lower Ordovician ◽  
Water Conditions ◽  
Tentative Interpretation

Over 5000 trilobites have been collected from Lower Ordovician rocks exposed at the Lynna River in the Volkhov region, east of St. Petersburg, Russia. Bed-by-bed sampling has been carried out through the upper part of Volkhov Formation (top of Jeltiaki Member and the entire Frizy Member), the Lynna Formation and the basal part of the Obukhovo Formation. This interval, which is 7.5 metres thick, correlates with the upper part of the Arenig Series, and presumably even ranges into the very base of the Llanvirn. A preliminary biostratigraphical investigation of top Jeltiaki Member (BIIβ), Frizy Member (BIIγ) and basal Lynna Formation (BIIIα) reveals a rather continuous faunal turnover lacking sharp boundaries, and the biostratigraphical zonation (BIIβ–BIIIα) is primarily defined by the index trilobite taxa. The trilobite ranges are generally in agreement with the pattern described by Schmidt in 1907. The abundance ratio between Asaphus and the ptychopygids seems to be related to changes in relative sea level with Asaphus preferring the most shallow water conditions. A tentative interpretation of sea-level changes suggests an initial drowning at the base of BIIγ, immediately followed by a lowstand that in turn was succeeded by a moderate sea-level rise and then a significant fall. The last marks the BIIγ/BIIIα boundary. Correlation with sections in Scandinavia suggests that the basal part of BIIγ is strongly condensed.

scholarly journals Trinocladus divnae and montiella filipovici: A new species (Dasycladales, green algae) from the Upper Cretaceous of the Mountain Pastrik (Mirdita Zone)

2006 ◽  
pp. 65-87 ◽  
Author(s):  
Rajka Radoicic
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Upper Cretaceous ◽  
Distal Part ◽  
Supplementary Note ◽  
Variable Size ◽  
Tectonic Processes ◽  
Mirdita Zone ◽  
Bathymetric Changes ◽  
Primary Lateral ◽  
A New Species

Two new dasycladalean species from the Upper Cretaceous of the Mountain Pastrik, Kukes Cretaceous Unit of the Mirdita Zone are described: Trinocladus divnae sp. nov. is characterized by variable size of the thallus, relatively narrow main axis, typical Trinocladus organization of the laterals and thin calcification limited to the distal part of the thallus which includes a swollen part of secondaries and short tertiaries. Often, the internal portion of the whorls (except sometimes the main stem membrane), tends to dissolve and form dissolution cavities filled with cement. Montiella filipovici sp. nov. is characterized by a primary skeleton made of a thin individual sheath around a fertile ampullae, often obliterated by recrystallization. Four to six laterals, each giving one secondary and one fertile ampulla located on the upper side of the relatively thick short primary lateral. Upper Cenomanian limestone with Cisalveolina fraasi and Trinocladus divnae sp. nov. was deposited immediately before the events that resulted in sea level rising. The middle and upper Cenomanian eustatic-tectonic processes had different effects in the Pastrik shallow water areas, depending on the distance from the basinal part of the Unit. Bathymetric changes in a part of the Pastrik sedimentary area were not significant, even negligible. Montiella filipovici is found in the post-fraasi shallow water sequence, assigned to the ?uppermost Cenomanian-lowermost Turonian (= Whiteinella archaeocretacea Zone p. p.; a short stratigraphic gap, in a part of the area, is noted). Shallow water limestone with Turonian taxa, corresponding to the helvetca Zone, occurs a few meters upward. Supplementary note: the species Cylindroporella parva RADOICIC is transferred in the genus Montiella, the species Permocalculus elliotti JOHNSON is transferred in the genus Trinocladus, while the species Trinocladus bellus YU JING is transferred in the genus Belzungia.

scholarly journals Generation and Propagation of Tsunami by a Moving Realistic Curvilinear Slide Shape with Variable Velocities in Linearized Shallow-Water Wave Theory

Engineering ◽  
2010 ◽  
Vol 02 (07) ◽  
pp. 529-549 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hossam Shawky Hassan ◽  
Khaled Tawfik Ramadan ◽  
Sarwat Nageeb Hanna
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Shallow Water Wave
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