scholarly journals A NUMERICAL STUDY OF FREAK WAVE GENERATION IN RANDOM SEAS OVER A SUBMERGED BAR

Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Ruili Fu ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Qiannan Du

Freak waves, also called rogue waves and giant waves, are much larger and steeper than the surrounding waves, can cause severe accidents, and can be formed in both coastal and offshore regions. The past researchers on freak waves in coastal regions are mainly focused on the statistical properties, and the generation mechanism of such large waves are not yet discussed intensively. The aim of the present study is to examine the generation process of freak waves in unidirectional propagating random waves over a submerged bar using a fully nonlinear numerical wave model, SWASH. It was found that freak waves are readily formed at the seaward part of the crest of the bar and gradually emerged from an intense wave group. The enhancement of the bound higher harmonics in the shoaling process is the main reason to form such large waves in shallow water. On the crest bar of the bathymetry, the extreme wave gradually vanished, mainly due to the releasing of bound higher-harmonics to free wave components.


2020 ◽  
Vol 142 (4) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Changfu Yuan ◽  
Congfang Ai ◽  
Guohai Dong

Abstract The generation of two freak waves in a broadband and a narrowband random series registered in the experiments of Li, J. X., Li, P. F., and Liu, S. X. (2013, “Observations of Freak Waves in Random Wave Field in 2D Experimental Wave Flume,” China Ocean Eng., 27(5), pp. 659–670) is precisely reconstructed using a fully non-hydrostatic water wave model. The simulation results indicate that even when the background spectral bandwidths are different, the evolution processes of the two freak waves are similar. Both freak waves emerge quickly during the transition from normal states to extreme events. The freak waves can persist over a long distance, i.e., approximately 5 peak wavelengths. The reconstructed time series in both the backward and forward locations at which the freak waves were recorded reveal that the largest freak wave crests were not captured in the experiment. The freak waves gradually emerged from an intense wave group. The waves developed quickly during the transition from a normal state to an extreme event. Very deep troughs were also formed in the evolution process. The two freak waves were actually generated via different spectral bandwidth processes, but the generation mechanisms of the rogue waves were similar. By analyzing the time series of the freak wave groups, the formation of the freak waves is found to result from the combined effect of the dispersive focusing, the third-order resonant wave interactions, and the higher harmonics.



2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhuowei Zhou ◽  
Ningchuan Zhang ◽  
Guoxing Huang


2021 ◽  
Vol 143 (5) ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhuowei Zhou ◽  
Ningchuan Zhang ◽  
Guoxing Huang

Abstract Numerous numerical and experimental investigations show that rogue waves present much larger probabilities of occurrence than predicted by the linear random wave model, i.e., Gaussian distributed waves. The deviation from normal statistical events excites a continuous concern about rogue wave research. In this study, rogue waves under long-crested and narrow-banded wave trains are checked using the high-order spectral (HOS)-NST model. The JONSWAP wave spectra with random phases are selected as the initial state of the incoming wave trains. Different values of spectral parameters are chosen to reproduce different random sea states with different Benjamin–Feir index (BFI). Numerical results are compared with the classical experimental study and show good agreements. Statistical properties of rogue waves are recounted again within the analysis of exceedance distribution function (EDF) of wave heights and wave crests. Spectral changes are examined, and the monotonic increases with BFI are stressed. However, no bifurcations are observed for BFI near 1. For large BFI, quasi-resonance interactions dominate the wave nonlinearities, and the resulted dynamic excess kurtosis involves initially monotonic enhancement along with space, peaking at around 20–30 wavelengths, but stays at stably high-level values. The quasi-steady-state of dynamic excess kurtosis after full interaction of wave nonlinearities in time and space demonstrates a continuous emergence of rogue waves much more frequent than normality. The changes of excess kurtosis along x are complicated where BFI near 1 and the occurrence of rogue waves might be enhanced even for BFI slightly inferior to 1.



Author(s):  
Elzbieta M. Bitner-Gregersen ◽  
O̸istein Hagen

Recently significant interest has been paid to abnormal waves, often called rogue waves or freak waves. These waves represent operational risks to ship and offshore structures, and are likely to be responsible for a number of accidents. As shown by several authors, in ‘the second order world’ the freak waves are pretty rare events. The present study focuses on statistical properties of freak waves. The analyses are based on second order time domain simulations, short term distributions for crest statistics obtained from the literature, and long term field data. Time series of wave elevations are generated using the Pierson-Moskowitz, JONSWAP and two-peak Torsethaugen frequency spectrum for long-crested seas and deep water. Effects of combined seas (swell and wind sea) on wave statistics are discussed. Assuming 2nd order wave theory, the short term and long term probability of occurrence of a freak wave is estimated. The difference between a “freak wave” and a “dangerous wave” is pointed out. Finally, 100 year and 10000 year crest events obtained by analysis procedures used in the offshore industry are discussed in relation to freak waves.



Author(s):  
Zhuowei Zhou ◽  
Ningchuan Zhang ◽  
Guoxing Huang

Abstract Numerous numerical and experimental investigations show that rogue waves present a much larger probability of occurrence than expected from the linear random wave model, i.e., Gaussian distributed waves. The deviation from normal statistical events excites a continuous concern about rogue-wave research. In this study, rogue waves under random wave seas are addressed within the framework of the horizontal 1-D fully nonlinear Euler equations. The JONSWAP wave spectra with a different set of random phases are selected as the initial state of the recurrences of incoming wave trains. Different values of spectrum parameters (i.e., enhancement factor γ and significant wave height Hs) for JONSWAP spectra are chosen in order to reproduce different random sea states with different BFI values. The results of the numerical method using in this study are compared with classical experimental studies of rogue waves and show good agreements. Nonlinear wave interactions and the evolution of simulated waves are investigated in order to study the emergence of rogue waves. Statistics analysis is applied to the simulating results to find the deviations with normal distributions. Numerical results reveal that the initial unstable waves need some space to evolve, i.e., around 20 wavelengths, and will keep in an energetic state for the formation of rogue waves.



2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhuowei Zhou ◽  
Ningchuan Zhang ◽  
Guoxing Huang


Author(s):  
K. Qu ◽  
G. Y. Lan ◽  
S. Kraatz ◽  
W. Y. Sun ◽  
B. Deng ◽  
...  

The extreme surges and waves generated in tsunamis can cause devastating damages to coastal infrastructures and threaten the intactness of coastal communities. After the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, extensive physical experiments and numerical simulations have been conducted to understand the wave attenuation of tsunami waves due to coastal forests. Nearly all prior works used solitary waves as the tsunami wave model, but the spatial-temporal scales of realistic tsunamis differ drastically from that of solitary waves in both wave period and wavelength. More recent work has questioned the applicability of solitary waves and been looking towards more realistic tsunami wave models. Therefore, aiming to achieve more realistic and accurate results, this study will use a parameterized tsunami-like wave based on wave observations during the 2011 Japan tsunami to study the wave attenuation of a tsunami wave by emergent rigid vegetation. This study uses a high-resolution numerical wave tank based on the non-hydrostatic wave model (NHWAVE). This work examines effects of prominent factors, such as wave height, water depth, vegetation density and width, on the wave attenuation efficiency of emergent rigid vegetation. Results indicate that the vegetation patch can dissipate a considerable amount of the total wave energy of the tsunami-like wave. However, the tsunami-like wave has a higher total wave energy, but also a lower wave energy dissipation rate. Results show that using a solitary instead of a tsunami-like wave profile can overestimate the wave attenuation efficiency of the coastal forest.



2018 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Wang ◽  
Q. W. Ma ◽  
S. Yan ◽  
A. Chabchoub
Keyword(s):  


Author(s):  
Yin Guan ◽  
Baiyun Li ◽  
Mengnan Zhu ◽  
Shengjie Cheng ◽  
Jiyue Tu ◽  
...  

Abstract Owing to the wide applications in a large variety of multi-disciplinary areas, electrowetting-based digital microfluidics (DMF) has received considerable attention in the last decade. However, because of the complexity involved in the droplet generation process, the techniques and configurations for precise and controllable microdrop generation are still unclear. In this paper, a numerical study has been performed to investigate the impact of electrode arrangements on microdrop generation in an electrowetting-based DMF Platform proposed by a previously published experimental work. The governing equations for the microfluidic flow are solved by a finite volume formulation with a two-step projection method on a fixed numerical domain. The free surface of the microdrop is tracked by a coupled level-set and volume-of-fluid (CLSVOF) method, and the surface tension at the free surface is computed by the continuum surface force (CSF) scheme. A simplified viscous force scheme based on the ‘Hele-Shaw cell’ model is adopted to evaluate the viscous force exerted by the parallel plates. The generation process has been simulated with three different electrode arrangements, namely, ‘SL’, ‘SW’, and ‘SQ’. The effect of electrode arrangement on microdrop volume has been investigated. Besides, the influences of the initial microdrop location and volume on the generation process for the ‘SL’ design have been studied. The results can be used to advance microdrop generation techniques for various electrowetting-based DMF applications.



2020 ◽  
Vol 14 (04) ◽  
pp. 2050018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Chentong Hu ◽  
Yifan Wu ◽  
Chao An ◽  
Hua Liu

Tsunamis are generated primarily by the vertical displacement of the seafloor if the seafloor is flat. If the seafloor is slanted, the horizontal motion also contributes to the generation of tsunamis. A previous study proposed that such effects can be estimated by simply calculating the elevation of water due to the horizontal displacement of the slope. Two more studies later argued that the horizontal motion also results in horizontal momentum of the water, which amplifies the tsunami generation. In this study, we numerically simulate the tsunami generation process of flat and sloping seafloor. It is found that, for the flat seafloor, the initial water elevation equals the vertical seafloor displacement. For the sloping seafloor, the initial water elevation deviates from the vertical seafloor displacement, and the difference can be accurately evaluated by the horizontal seafloor displacement. Thus, the initial horizontal momentum of the water is negligible for tsunami generation.



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