British Quaker Women's Fashionable Adaptation of their Plain Dress, 1860–1914

Throughout the period 1860–1914, British Quaker women sought to negotiate the incorporation of fashionable attire into their wardrobes to varying degrees, after the religion's hierarchy made prescriptive religious ‘Plain’ dress optional in 1860. After centuries of restrictive Advices, which used Scripture alongside peer pressure to encourage female Friends to dress ascetically, Quaker women began to interpret their new sartorial freedoms in diverse ways. Through the presentation of three female case studies from across the period, this article will suggest three newly identified distinct stances that Quaker women enacted in responding to the new Advice and adapting to fashionable ensembles, up until the devastating events of the First World War. These three stances were non-adaptive, semi-adaptive and fully adaptive. Based on empirical research conducted in dress collections across Britain, this article will describe and present the garments worn by these women, to illustrate and introduce these distinct sartorial stances.

‘The Days of Thy Youth’

This chapter explores the range of ideas and activities that engaged Quaker women educators during the eighteenth century, a critical period in the development of Friends’ educational efforts. It analyses key writings of Deborah Bell, Rebecca Jones, and Priscilla Wakefield. These women adopted a variety of approaches to instructing youth, ranging from informal mentorship to formal teaching that stressed a ‘guarded’ (Quaker-only) environment. Bell, Jones, and Wakefield shed light on the leading role that Quaker women played in the education and socialization of young Friends. Their writings highlight the importance of the meetinghouse, the schoolhouse, and the printed word as public venues for women who sought to instil Quaker values in future generations.

Afterword

It is a little over a century since Mabel Richmond Brailsford penned her narrative history of Quaker Women, 1650–1690 (1915). In the interim, rich veins of evidence have become more easily accessible, analytical tools more refined, and as the value of women’s writings has been reappraised, so many by Quaker women have been rescued from neglect....

Quaker Women in Lenape Country

This chapter examines the central role of Quaker women during the years 1675–1710 in developing the first colony founded by members of the Society of Friends in North America. As individuals, women Friends helped to fashion a multicultural society consistent with Quaker beliefs in religious liberty and pacifism by maintaining amicable relations with the Lenape Indians and non-Quaker European settlers. At the same time, however, Friends failed to acknowledge the inconsistency of exploiting enslaved African Americans with Quaker ideals. As leaders of the Salem, Burlington, Chesterfield, and Newton (later Haddonfield) monthly meetings, Quaker women also helped to shape West New Jersey society by strengthening rules of discipline to prevent their children and other Friends from marrying non-Quakers and adopting ‘outward vanities’.

Stock Characters with Stiff-Brimmed Bonnets

This chapter examines continuity and change in representations of women Friends by non-Quakers in the first 150 years of Quakerism’s existence. Unsurprisingly, given their active role, including the unusual position of female travelling preachers, a large amount of attention, often negative, was paid to Quaker women by male non-Quakers. Analysis of such depictions reveals that stereotyping of female Friends served a number of different ends: it sought to titillate non-Quaker men with depictions of young Quaker women, and to reinforce non-Quaker men’s self-appointed role as moral guardians with religious, moral, and gendered superiority over Quaker women. The chapter considers how such responses were likely driven by anxious hegemonic masculinity, identified by several scholars as central to mainstream male identity, which led Quaker women to initially be viewed as a potent threat and later as stock figures, created to belittle female Friends’ growing moral and political influence.