Factors Affecting Apparel Pattern Grading Accuracy: Existing Software Solutions Comparison and Development of New Solution

Every so often, grading is not 100% accurate due to the conventional system for calculating the grading incre¬ment. The aim of this study was to develop a new calculation system of grading increment provided by different software, e.g. Lectra, Gerber, Optitex, Boke CAD etc., and to develop a new mathematical solution that enhances grading precision. For this experiment, three different spec sheets of different buyers were collected, and then combined and drawn to a solitary sketch for both front and back including all points of measures (POM) for a more easy comparison. The solutions for the presence of diagonal and curve measurements were provided with examples using various tools and techniques of different professional garment CAD software. The benefit of the new approach is not only reduced errors of grading but also guaranteed garment fit without distorting style features. However, the drawbacks of the measurement method are complicated and time-consuming. They revolve around the fact that iterative fitting and adjustments are mandatory to improve the fit before bulk production. The study revealed that this new system slightly increases calculation time, whereas the sample approval time for order execution reduces considerably.

Assessment of the Factors Affecting Apparel Pattern Grading Accuracy: Problems Identification and Recommendations

Grading is an inseparable part of producing multiple sized patterns in clothing production. From the inception of apparel manufacturing, various methods have been developed for precision pattern grading. Nevertheless, most conventional grading systems have some flaws. The objectives of this study were to analyse traditional grading systems, identify the factors responsible for pattern grading deficiencies and finally, recommend suggestions to minimise grading problems related to the use of CAD software. For the experiments, three different measurement sheets of different buyers were collected and combined into a single specification for better comparison. All garment patterns were then drawn and graded with varying parameters. Later on, measurements of graded patterns were analysed for grading accuracy. This study presents the factors responsible for grading deficiencies and how they can be minimised for higher precision grading for the better fitting of clothing and the prevention of garment sample rejection before bulk production.

Investigation of chest girth and height variation affecting other body dimensions for men’s upper body clothes pattern grading

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate the chest girth and height related to men’s upper body dimensions to develop men’s grading system for semi-customized clothing. Design/methodology/approach A data set of the 3,012 men between the age group of 18 and 59 years from 6th Size Korea was used in this study. The men’s upper body dimensions were tested in terms of five horizontal lengths, seven circumferences and seven vertical lengths. Experiment and data analysis were carried out with two methods: one is multiple linear regression with chest girth and height as each independent variable and the other is calculating variation among chest girth size groups and height size groups, respectively. Findings Regression analysis showed that some horizontal lengths are affected not only by chest girth, but also by height, and some vertical lengths are affected not only by height, but also by chest girth. In variation analysis it was found that the variation value for each part of the body is different and it was observed that with an increase in chest girth vertical length also increases. In variation analysis of height, it is found that some horizontal body dimensions and hip girth increase with an increase in height. In the comparison of upper body dimension variation among height groups with the size based on the chest girth, we found that a tall person who already has long vertical length is less affected by the increase in dimensions by increases in their horizontal girth than a short person. Originality/value The findings showed detailed numerical body shape changes according to chest girth and height, and it may be used as the basis for determining pattern grading values by chest girth or height.