Factors Affecting Apparel Pattern Grading Accuracy: Existing Software Solutions Comparison and Development of New Solution

Every so often, grading is not 100% accurate due to the conventional system for calculating the grading incre¬ment. The aim of this study was to develop a new calculation system of grading increment provided by different software, e.g. Lectra, Gerber, Optitex, Boke CAD etc., and to develop a new mathematical solution that enhances grading precision. For this experiment, three different spec sheets of different buyers were collected, and then combined and drawn to a solitary sketch for both front and back including all points of measures (POM) for a more easy comparison. The solutions for the presence of diagonal and curve measurements were provided with examples using various tools and techniques of different professional garment CAD software. The benefit of the new approach is not only reduced errors of grading but also guaranteed garment fit without distorting style features. However, the drawbacks of the measurement method are complicated and time-consuming. They revolve around the fact that iterative fitting and adjustments are mandatory to improve the fit before bulk production. The study revealed that this new system slightly increases calculation time, whereas the sample approval time for order execution reduces considerably.

Dyeing of cotton fabric by Caesalpinia sappan aqueous extract at different temperatures and mordants

The colour is one of the most important features in textile industry and customers requirements. Synthetic colours are available at affordable prices due to their bulk production. On the other hand, they pose undesirable taste (in case of foods) and harmful effects to ecosystem. The natural colours when used in textiles do not threat the environments and do not cause any skin allergy, toxicity and other hazards to living things as compared to the synthetic counterparts. In the present study, dyeing experiments were conducted with the aqueous extract of bark chips of Caesalpinia sappan at 60, 80 and100° C and using different mordant treatments. The fastness to washing for most of cotton fabrics showed fair grey scale rating. Among the mordants Alum, CuSo4 and Myrobalan used, the natural mordant myrobalan showed poor fastness properties compared to other two mordants. The staining tests showed that most of fabrics exhibited only slight/completely no pilling in majority of the treatments.

Green Chemistry Approaches To The Synthesis Of Flavonoids

: In nature, flavonoids constitute a relatively diverse family of aromatic molecules such as flavones, flavonols, flavanones, isoflavone, chalcones, and their derivatives. Natural and synthetic flavonoids have reported diverse biological activity including antimycobacterial, antimicrobial, antiproliferative, antiarrhythmic, antiviral, antihypertensive, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory. Flavonoids have garnered much attention as potential targets for nutraceuticals and pharmaceuticals. The recent development of ‘‘Green Chemistry’’ has enabled us to manipulate biosynthetic pathways to generate a library of synthetic flavonoids and to diminish the hazards for human health and environmental pollution from conventional methods. This paper presents an exhaustive review of the green synthesis of flavonoids. Green chemistry is the need of the day; hence chalcones can be synthesized in an eco-friendly manner without using solvents. The chalcone synthesis involves the solvent-free solid-state trituration between acetophenone derivatives and substituted benzaldehydes in the presence of NaOH/KOH as a base (Claisen-Schmidt reaction). Using these chalcone derivatives, synthesis of flavonoids can be done. In the pharmaceutical arena, economical bulk production of different types of flavonoids has been successfully established by green chemistry techniques.

Characteristics of Volatile Organic Compound Leaks from Equipment Components: A Study of the Pharmaceutical Industry in China

Leak detection and repair (LDAR) plays an important role in controlling the fugitive emission of volatile organic compound (VOC) from chemical enterprises. At present, many policies and standards issued in China have set clear requirements for implementing LDAR in the pharmaceutical industry. In this study, the LDAR work of nine typical pharmaceutical enterprises was selected for analysis to allow investigation of the characteristics of VOC emissions from leaking equipment components. Some suggestions for controlling VOC are proposed to provide a reference for managing the fugitive emissions of VOC from pharmaceutical enterprises. The results showed that the number of equipment components used by the pharmaceutical enterprises ranged from several thousand to more than 20,000, which is lower than that in oil refining and coal chemical enterprises. The predominant leaky component was the flange, which accounted for 56.31% of the total, followed by connectors (21.51%) and valves (18.53%). Light liquid medium components accounted for the largest proportion of equipment (52.83%) on average, followed by gas medium components (45.52%, on average). Heavy liquid medium components, which are rarely used in pharmaceuticals, accounted for only 1.65%. The average leak ratio of the components in the pharmaceutical industry was approximately 0.99%. The leak ratio of the open-ended line was much higher than that of other types of components, reaching an average of 5.00%, while that value was only 0.92% for the flange, despite the numbers and proportion of them that were in use. The total annual VOC leakage from the nine pharmaceutical enterprises studied in this work was 20.11 tons, with an average of 2.23 tons per enterprise and an average of 0.22 kg/a per equipment component. Flanges, connectors, and valves were the top three contributors to leakage, generating 39.17%, 38.72%, and 16.79% of the total, respectively, and a total proportion of 94.68%. Although the number of pumps accounted for only 0.15% of the components, it generated 1.94% of the leakage. In terms of different production processes, the greatest unit product leakage came from the bulk production of chemicals used for pharmaceuticals, reaching 0.085 t/a. The production from traditional Chinese medicine enterprises was the lowest (0.011 t/a), which was only 12.80% of the leakage from the bulk production of chemicals for drugs. The leakage of VOC from the equipment components in the nine enterprises was reduced, to varying degrees, using LDAR. The overall reduction ratio was between 23.55% and 67.72%, with an average of 44.02%. The reduction in leakage was relatively significant after the implementation of LDAR; however, there is still room for improvement. Pharmaceutical enterprises should improve their implementation of LDAR and reduce VOC leakage by reducing the number of inaccessible components used and increasing the repair ratio of leaky components. Controlling the source of component leakage, which should be emphasized, can be realized by cutting down the number of components used, adopting low-leakage equipment, and putting anti-leakage measures in place.

‘Indian Gowns Small and Great’: Chintz Banyans Ready Made in the Coromandel, c. 1680–c. 1780

The article focuses on the close study of a group of eighteenth-century chintz nightgowns that were ready-made or partly ready-made in India for the European market. Whereas nightgowns are usually associated with the taste for the exotic and the spread of the fashion is sometimes linked to the availability of the garment on the ready-made market, the production of ready-made gowns in India and the methods put in place to manufacture these commodities have not been studied. Based on a close reading of surviving chintz nightgowns, the article attempts to understand production techniques put in place by Indian craftsmen to meet European demand. Material evidence suggests streamlined production processes were in place in India from the end of the seventeenth century that had no real equivalent in Europe. The article thus sheds further light on the idea of Europe's ‘Indian apprenticeship’, showing that Indian mastery of colour was coupled with production methods combining artisanal, non-mechanized work with a level of bulk production and enhanced efficiency.

THE MODEL FOR CALCULATING THE PRODUCTION PERIOD OF HARDWARE AND SOFTWARE SYSTEMS DESIGNED BY DEVELOPING COMPANIES

It is relevant for a developer of hardware and software systems to assess the duration of development in advance and determine the main factors influencing on its success. Bulk production or bulk production with little changes can be assessed based on the experience. However, when making preliminary assessment, some factors that had not a great effect before may not be considered. The article describes an approach to calculate the duration of hardware and software system development based on analogues, statistics and factors effecting the production. At the same time, it should be noted this method provides only a preliminary assessment and its usage requires additional s.