Morphodynamic Controls for Growth and Evolution of a Rubble Coral Island

Rubble islands are dynamic sedimentary features present on reef platforms that evolve under a variety of morphodynamic processes and controlling mechanisms. They provide valuable inhabitable land for small island nations, critical habitat for numerous species, and are threatened by climate change. Aiming to investigate the controlling mechanisms dictating the evolution of One Tree Island (OTI), a rubble island in the Southern Great Barrier Reef, we combined different remotely-sensed data across varying timescales with wave data extracted from satellite altimetry and cyclone activity. Our findings show that (1) OTI had expanded by 7% between 1978 and 2019, (2) significant gross planform decadal adjustments were governed by the amount, intensity, proximity, and relative position of cyclones as well as El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) phases, and (3) the mechanisms of island growth involve rubble spits delivering and redistributing rubble to the island through alongshore sediment transport and wave overtopping. Frequent short-term monitoring of the island and further research coupling variations in the different factors driving island change (i.e., sediment availability, reef-wave interactions, and extreme events) are needed to shed light on the future trajectory of OTI and other rubble islands under a climate change scenario.

Estimation of alongshore sediment discharge on pebble and sandy beaches

A unified approach has been developed to assess the integral alongshore sediment transport for the conditions of heterogeneous pebble and sandy beaches. The energy formulas for determining the sediment discharge have been modified for the conditions for calculating the integral alongshore sediment transport on heterogeneous pebble and sandy beaches. For this, the coefficient included in the energy formulas is determined using the Ackers-White method.

Simulating barrier island response to sea level rise with the barrier island and inlet environment (BRIE) model v1.0

Barrier islands are low-lying coastal landforms vulnerable to inundation and erosion by sea level rise. Despite their socioeconomic and ecological importance, their future morphodynamic response to sea level rise or other hazards is poorly understood. To tackle this knowledge gap, we outline and describe the BarrieR Inlet Environment (BRIE) model that can simulate long-term barrier morphodynamics. In addition to existing overwash and shoreface formulations, BRIE accounts for alongshore sediment transport, inlet dynamics, and flood–tidal delta deposition along barrier islands. Inlets within BRIE can open, close, migrate, merge with other inlets, and build flood–tidal delta deposits. Long-term simulations reveal complex emergent behavior of tidal inlets resulting from interactions with sea level rise and overwash. BRIE also includes a stratigraphic module, which demonstrates that barrier dynamics under constant sea level rise rates can result in stratigraphic profiles composed of inlet fill, flood–tidal delta, and overwash deposits. In general, the BRIE model represents a process-based exploratory view of barrier island morphodynamics that can be used to investigate long-term risks of flooding and erosion in barrier environments. For example, BRIE can simulate barrier island drowning in cases in which the imposed sea level rise rate is faster than the morphodynamic response of the barrier island.

TEMPORAL VARIABILITY OF LONGITUDINAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT ON THE BRAZILIAN CONTINENTAL SHELF

The sediment transported along the coast can alter the existing balance in certain environments, causing or accelerating erosive processes, and resulting in economic and environmental damages. In this way, predicting changes in the coastal zone and understanding the beach processes is an essential source of information for the elaboration of coastal management plans. In this context, the present work aims to estimate the alongshore sediment transport (LST) in several sectors of the Brazilian Coast, identifying the annual average and the predominant transport. This study was conducted for the period between the years 1979 and 2015, using computational modeling to investigate the behavior of the waves, and empirical formulas to calculate the LST rates. In addition, the temporal variability was investigated through the wavelet analysis. The results showed a great diversity in the wave climate behavior along the Brazilian Coast, presenting a good correlation in terms of magnitude between the estimation of LST and past studies in the different sectors analyzed. The place where transport has become pronounced understands the sector between Alagoas and Rio Grande do Norte states, while the opposite was observed in the Southern part of Bahia. The wavelet analysis showed that the spectrum of LST time series has a significant amount of energy for processes with a seasonal and annual variability, indicating that the northern regions of Brazil are most affected by the interannual processes. In this sense, informations along the Brazilian coast are presented, that may be considered in future projects, involving the sustainable management of the coastal zones.

Mapping the Sandy Beach Evolution Around Seaports at the Scale of the African Continent

In Africa, several new seaport developments are being considered. In sedimentary environments, such port developments can have adverse impacts on the evolution of adjacent coastlines. To learn from past port engineering practice, we created a unique database containing the coastline evolution and characteristics of 130 existing African seaports. Whereas the systematic mapping of coastal impacts was previously hampered by data availability, innovative automated satellite image processing techniques have enabled us to intercompare ports at an unprecedented continental scale. We found large geographical differences with respect to the beach evolution. The total detected changes in the beach area between 1984 and 2018 totaled 44 km2, of which ca. 23 km2 is accretion and ca. 21 km2 is erosion. The top 10% “hotspot” ports account for more than 65% of these changes. These hotspots exhibit common characteristics, namely: they are located on open coastlines, have large alongshore sediment transport potential, and have large cross-shore breakwaters. Although these driving characteristics are well established in coastal engineering theory, our results indicate that the beaches adjacent to the existing seaports have been and remain seriously affected by these drivers. Our results can be used to inform beach maintenance strategies for existing seaports and to support planners and engineers to minimize long-term coastal impacts of port expansions and new port developments in Africa in the future.