Abstract
Long waves with periods greater than tens of seconds propagating into a harbor may be trapped and significantly amplified, thereby resulting in detrimental effects on port operations. The water surface elevation in the Hambantota Port, Sri Lanka, was measured to investigate the low-frequency oscillations and their forcing mechanisms. Results show that the port is protected well from short waves with periods less than 30 s; however, the protection against long waves with periods larger than 30 s is inadequate. The spectral analyses identified four dominant periods within the low-frequency wave range. Modal analysis based on the extended mild-slope equation shows that the measured spectrum density for some dominant periods is low because the measurement point is close to the corresponding modal lines. Correlation analysis shows that low-frequency oscillations inside the Hambantota Port are excited directly by the low-frequency waves contained within the incident waves. The low-frequency waves outside the Hambantota Port are generated from the higher-frequency gravity waves (swell and wind waves) due to nonlinear interactions. Empirical formula is adopted to estimate the low-frequency wave height outside the Hambantota Port.
Energy transfer between wind waves and low-frequency oscillations on a fringing reef, Ipan, Guam
