scholarly journals The role of beach morphology on coastal cliff erosion under extreme waves

2018 ◽  
Vol 43 (6) ◽  
pp. 1213-1228 ◽  
Author(s):  
Claire Earlie ◽  
Gerhard Masselink ◽  
Paul Russell
Keyword(s):  
Extreme Waves ◽  
Beach Morphology ◽  
Cliff Erosion ◽  
Coastal Cliff

scholarly journals EXPERIMENTAL ANALYSIS OF EROSIVE COHESIVE COASTLINE MORPHOLOGY

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 53
Author(s):  
Bastien Caplain ◽  
Dominique Astruc ◽  
Vincent Regard ◽  
Frédéric Moulin
Keyword(s):  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Regular Waves ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Cliff Erosion ◽  
Recession Rate ◽  
Self Organized ◽  
Coastal Cliff ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

Laboratory experiments have been performed in a wave flume to investigate the coastal cliff recession under regular waves forcing. The different processes of the cliff erosion cycle are described and we focus on bottom evolution, which seem mostly depend on the surf similarity parameter ξ. We observed steep planar (ξ > 0.7), gentle planar (0.5 < ξ < 0.7) and bared (ξ < 0.5) profiles. We noticed different sandbar dynamics including either steady or unsteady self-sustained oscillating states. Then we estimate the role of the self-organized material on the cliff recession rate. We show that the cliff erosion increases with the wave energy flux and is stronger for a gentle planar profile than for a bared profile of bottom morphology. However, the cliff recession rate as a function of the cliff height is not monotonic due to a different dynamics of bottom morphologies.

Application of Structure-from-Motion Terrestrial Photogrammetry to the Assessment of Coastal Cliff Erosion Processes in SW Spain

2020 ◽  
Vol 95 (sp1) ◽  
pp. 1057 ◽  
Author(s):  
Laura del Río ◽  
Daniel Posanski ◽  
F. Javier Gracia ◽  
Antonio M. Pérez-Romero
Keyword(s):  
Structure From Motion ◽  
Sw Spain ◽  
Cliff Erosion ◽  
Erosion Processes ◽  
Coastal Cliff ◽  
Terrestrial Photogrammetry

Linear and nonlinear statistics of extreme waves

2017 ◽  
Vol 32 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Dmitry V. Chalikov
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Model ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Extreme Waves ◽  
Linear Waves ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Linear And Nonlinear ◽  
Nonlinear Statistics ◽  
Integral Probability

AbstractThe probability of extremely high waves is calculated by two methods. The first method is based on the direct numerical simulation of two-dimensional wave field using a three-dimensional nonlinear model. The second method consists in calculation of the probability of wave heights over ensemble of fields representing a superposition of linear waves with random phases and a spectrum similar to that obtained in the nonlinear model. It is shown that the integral probability of extreme waves are very close to each other in both cases. This implies that the role of nonlinearity in the generation of extreme waves is probably not so important as it was assumed in most papers considering this phenomenon.

scholarly journals The Role of Beach Morphology and Mid-Century Climate Change Effects on Wave Runup and Storm Impact on the Northern Yucatan Coast

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (5) ◽  
pp. 518
Author(s):  
Gabriela Medellín ◽  
Martí Mayor ◽  
Christian M. Appendini ◽  
Ruth Cerezo-Mota ◽  
José A. Jiménez
Keyword(s):  
Climate Change ◽  
Sea Level ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Beach Morphology ◽  
Extreme Water Levels ◽  
Storm Impact ◽  
Wave Conditions

Wave runup is a relevant parameter to determine the storm impact on barrier islands. Here, the role of the beach morphology on wave runup and storm impact was investigated at four coastal communities located on the northern Yucatan coast. Current wave conditions based on regional wind simulations, topo-bathymetric transects measured at each location, and a nonlinear wave transformation model were employed to reconstruct multi-year runup time series. Dune morphology features and extreme water levels (excluding storm surge contributions) were further employed to determine the storm impact at each site for different return periods. Despite the similar offshore conditions along the coast, extreme water levels (i.e., runup and setup) showed intersite differences that were mainly ascribed to subaerial and submerged morphological features. Numerical results showed that the average surf zone beach slope, sandbars, berm, and dune elevation played an important role in controlling extreme water levels and storm impact at the study sites under the present climate. Moreover, in order to assess the potential effect of climate change on coastal flooding, we analyzed wave runup and storm impact in the best-preserved site by considering wave conditions and sea level rise (SLR) projections under the RCP 8.5 scenario. Modelling results suggest no significant increase in the storm impact regime between the present and future conditions in the study area unless SLR is considered. It was found that to accurately estimate SLR contribution, it should be incorporated into mean sea level prior to performing numerical wave runup simulations, rather than simply adding it to the resulting wave-induced water levels.

scholarly journals The Role of Coral Reefs in Coastal Protection: Analysis of Beach Morphology

2019 ◽  
Vol 92 (sp1) ◽  
pp. 157
Author(s):  
Karoline Angélica Martins ◽  
Pedro de Souza Pereira ◽  
Luciana S. Esteves ◽  
Jon Williams
Keyword(s):  
Coral Reefs ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Beach Morphology

scholarly journals Role of Storm Erosion Potential and Beach Morphology in Controlling Dune Erosion

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (12) ◽  
pp. 1428
Author(s):  
Laura Lemke ◽  
Jon K. Miller
Keyword(s):  
Coastal Erosion ◽  
Spatial Scales ◽  
Classification Tree ◽  
Local Scale ◽  
Dune Erosion ◽  
Beach Morphology ◽  
Storm Intensity ◽  
Erosion Index ◽  
Morphology Characteristics

Coastal erosion is controlled by two sets of factors, one related to storm intensity and the other related to a location’s vulnerability. This study investigated the role of each set in controlling dune erosion based on data compiled for eighteen historical events in New Jersey. Here, storm intensity was characterized by the Storm Erosion Index (SEI) and Peak Erosion Intensity (PEI), factors used to describe a storm’s cumulative erosion potential and maximum erosive power, respectively. In this study, a direct relationship between these parameters, beach morphology characteristics, and expected dune response was established through a classification tree ensemble. Of the seven input parameters, PEI was the most important, indicating that peak storm conditions with time scales on the order of hours were the most critical in predicting dune impacts. Results suggested that PEI, alone, was successful in distinguishing between storms most likely to result in no impacts (PEI < 69) and those likely to result in some (PEI > 102), regardless of beach condition. For intensities in between, where no consistent behavior was observed, beach conditions must be considered. Because of the propensity for beach conditions to change over short spatial scales, it is important to predict impacts on a local scale. This study established a model with the computational effectiveness to provide such predictions.

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