An Innovative Textile Product Proposal Based on Sustainability: Recycling Wastes from the Wool Industry

Author(s):  
Regis Puppim ◽  
Ana Cristina Broega
2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
pp. 15-23 ◽  
Author(s):  
Emma K Doyle ◽  
James W V Preston ◽  
Bruce A McGregor ◽  
Phil I Hynd

Author(s):  
Carla Sedini ◽  
Marina Parente ◽  
Giuliano Simonelli

In the last years, a new phase of economic crisis, which is concerning sectors of manufacturing industries, is affecting Europe. Focusing on Italy, sectors which have strongly characterized our country, such as textile and accessories, are facing with an fluctuating period of crisis. Also in this case, as it happened from late ‘80s, the urban structures and identities are seriously affected and need interventions of regeneration in order to gain new life both from social, productive and commercial point of views. Having in mind the Italian case, while the first phase identified had the characteristics of a disruptive macro-phenomenon, the second phase is more subtle and gradual. In this paper we are going to focus on changes of design culture in light of these urban phenomena. While we can already make a first evaluation of regeneration projects developed after the crisis of heavy industry sectors, the most recent events of industrial recession and the consequent regeneration of the correspondent empty areas are still ongoing. In order to analyze and, where it is possible, compare these two phases, we are going to look at two Italian case studies. The first is Bicocca, an area of Milan, which in the ‘90s was interested by a massive plan of regeneration and transformation after the closure of Breda and Pirelli industries. The second is Biella, a Piedmont Province city, which has been one of the most important centers for the textile and wool industry; the crisis of this sector strongly emerged in the first years on 2000 even if it had already begun between ‘80s and ‘90s when the biggest textile factories closed down. The differences between these two examples are not merely physical and dimensional but are clearly influenced by a different timing in the regeneration processes, which occurred in these areas (or, in the case of Biella, is still occurring). The analysis proposed in this paper will be focus on the action-research developed within two didactic experiences. Notwithstanding the distinctions in terms of objectives and actors involved, in this paper we are going to delineate a systemic approach to study and design for the regeneration, improvement and innovation of places. We will try to understand if, through strategic design, it is possible to identify those soft levers and interventions able to rejoin the pieces of places, which lost their functionality and identity.DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.4995/IFDP.2016.3284


2021 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 79-97
Author(s):  
Muhammad Itqonul Humam ◽  
Akhmad Firdiansyah

Import of textile product which keep getting higher has caused serious injury to the domestic textile industry, as an effort to protect domestic industry government has imposed additional import duty in form of safeguard duty for import of textile product. Introduction of safeguard duty is expected to give domestic industry an opportunity to adjust itself for competing with import product, but the establishment of safeguard duty for textile product is thought to be the trigger for tax evasion on import of textile product, against this violation government impose administrative sanction. The purpose of this research is to analyze the effect of safeguard duty imposition and administration sanction on tax evasion. Object of this research is all import activity on textiles product which has been imposed safeguard duty and committing administrative violation since the establishment of safeguard duty for textile product beginning on November 2019 till October 2020. Regression technique used is ordinary least square regression to regress cross section data. Research conclusion find that safeguard duty introduction significantly affecting tax evasion while administrative sanction didn’t have significant effect on reducing tax evasion.. Keywords: textile product, safeguard duty, administration sanction, tax evasion.


2021 ◽  
pp. 004051752110505
Author(s):  
Hao Yu ◽  
Christopher Hurren ◽  
Xin Liu ◽  
Xungai Wang

Softness is one of the key elements of textile comfort and is one of the main considerations when consumers make purchasing decisions. In the wool industry, softness can reflect the quality and value of wool fibers. There is verifiable difference in subjective softness between Australian Soft Rolling Skin (SRS) wool and conventional Merino (CM) wool, yet the key factors responsible for this difference are not yet well understood. Fiber attributes, such as crimp (curvature), scale morphology, ortho-to-cortex (OtC) ratio and moisture regain, may have a significant influence on softness performance. This study has examined these key factors for both SRS and CM wool and systematically compared the difference in these factors. There was no significant difference in the crimp frequency between these two wools; however, the curvature of SRS wool was lower than that of CM wool within the same fiber diameter ranges (below 14.5 micron, 16.5–18.5 micron). This difference might be caused by the lower OtC ratio for SRS wool (approximately 0.60) than for CM wool (approximately 0.66). The crystallinity of the two wools was similar and not affected by the change in OtC ratio. SRS wool has higher moisture regain than CM wool by approximately 2.5%, which could reduce the stiffness of wool fibers. The surface morphology for SRS wool was also different from that of CM wool. The lower cuticle scale height for SRS wool resulted in its smoother surface than CM wool. This cuticle height difference was present even when they both had similar cuticle scale frequency.


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