The Sea of Cortés (el Mar de Cortés), also known as the Gulf of California, is the body of water that separates the California peninsula from the mainland of Mexico. It extends in a northwest-southeast axis for 1070 km, varying in width from 100 to 200 km. The gulf was formerly much longer, but sediments carried by the Colorado River created a delta and dammed off its upper end, forming what is now the Imperial Valley. The western side of the gulf is dotted with islands, the longest of which is Ángel de la Guarda, measuring 67 km long, up to 16 km wide, and 1315 m high (see app. 1.1 for a list of island names and measurements). Most of the islands are geological remnants of the peninsula's separation from the mainland, a continuing process that started 4 or more million years ago. One central gulf island, Tortuga, is an emerged volcano, whereas San Marcos Island to its west is largely gypsum, possibly precipitated from an ancient lake. The largest island in the gulf is Tiburón, with an area of approximately 1000 km2. It is barely separated from the mainland to the east and has a curiously mixed biota of peninsular and mainland species. One tiny island, San Pedro Nolasco, is only 13 km off shore in San Pedro Bay, Sonora, but has an unusual flora that includes a high percentage of endemics. The isolation of organisms that colonized or were established previously on the Sea of Cortés islands provided an opportunity for genetic and ecological change. In one plastic and rapidly evolving plant family, the Cactaceae, about one-half of the 120 species found on the islands are endemic. Similarly, populations isolated by climate on peninsular mountains are well differentiated. Because of the topographical diversity of the area and its effect on the disruption and integration of populations, the Sea of Cortes and its islands have been called a natural laboratory for the investigation of speciation.
Description of a new species of lizard from the Island San Pedro Martir, Gulf of California