Measuring the Height of Sea Waves by the Method of Radar Sounding with Polarization-Modulated Signals

Author(s):  
E. L. Shoshin
Keyword(s):  
Author(s):  
Joanes E Koagouw ◽  
Gybert E Mamuaya ◽  
Adrie A Tarumingkeng ◽  
P A Angmalisang

Coastal area of Bitung Municipality is one of the economical activities centers in North Sulawesi Province such as for land-uses and the exploitation of natural resources. Those activities are exaggerating day bay day and tended to be uncontrollable. The excess of those conditions, it has been recorded the change of waves in Bitung waters that has impacts to coastal areas and can affect the utilization of coastal and marine resources. This research was aimed to observe waves altitude variations in Bitung waters with Svedrup Munk and Bretchsneider (SMB) method that had been used to predict waves altitudes. The results showed that the wind speed during West Season was 0.33 m and were dominant to the East, while during East season was 0.91m from South-East to North-West, and then on transition period (March to May) was 1.08m from South-East to East. The results of those wind speed to the waves altitudes in Bitung waters is discussed in this paper© Pesisir pantai Kota Bitung merupakan salah satu pusat aktivitas ekonomi (misalnya pemanfaatan lahan dan eksploitasi sumberdaya) di Provinsi Sulawesi Utara. Aktivitas tersebut semakin hari semakin meningkat dan memiliki kecenderungan tidak terkontrol. Akibat dari keadaan tersebut, telah terjadi perubahan fenomena gelombang di perairan Bitung yang berdampak pada keberadaan daerah pesisir pantai di mana hal ini dapat mengganggu aktivitas pemanfaatan sumberdaya pesisir dan laut tersebut. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui variasi tinggi gelombang di perairan Bitung dengan menggunakan metode Svedrup Munk and Bretchsneider (SMB) yang biasa digunakan untuk peramalan tinggi gelombang signifikan. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa kecepatan angin pada Musim Barat sebesar 0,33 meter dan dominan ke arah Timur, sementara pada Musim Timur sebesar 0,91 meter dari arah Tenggara ke Barat Laut, serta pada Musim Peralihan (antara bulan Maret-Mei) adalah sebesar 1,08 meter dari arah Tenggara dan Timur. Pengaruh kecepatan angin tersebut terhadap gelombang laut di perairan Bitung dibahas dalam tulisan ini©


2017 ◽  
Vol 927 (9) ◽  
pp. 22-29
Author(s):  
V.I. Kravtsovа ◽  
E.R. Chalova

Anapa bay bar is a valuable recreational-medical resource. Digital landscape-morphological mapping of its the Northern-Western part was created by digital aero survey materials for monitoring of its statement. Compiled maps show that in the Western part of region dune belt is degradated, front dune hills destroyed due to spreading of settlement Veselovka buildings to beach, and due to mass enactments carrying out at bay bar of lake Solenoe. Here it is necessary to decide the problem of defense from waves flooding by construction of artificial hills. The middle part of region, around Bugaz lagoon, is using for unregulated recreation of extreme sportsmen – windsurfing and kiting – with seasonal recreation in camping from tent-city and campers. Many short roads to sea beach, orthogonal to coast line, have been transformed to corridors of blowing and sea waves interaction to lagoon lowland with dune belt destroying. In the Eastern part of region, at Bugaz bay bar, dune belt is conserve, it changes under natural sea and wind processes action. At some places sea waves are erode windward front dune slope. Just everywhere sand accumulative trains are forming at leeward slope of front dune. Showed peculiarities of landscape morphological structure mast be taken in account due treatment of measures for bay bar defense and keeping.


2021 ◽  
Vol 695 (1) ◽  
pp. 012038
Author(s):  
M. P. Suhana ◽  
L. F. Shafitri ◽  
R. D. Putra ◽  
A. H. Nugraha ◽  
C. J. Koenawan ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 142
Author(s):  
Annalisa De Leo ◽  
Laura Cutroneo ◽  
Damien Sous ◽  
Alessandro Stocchino

Microplastic (MP) debris is recognized to be one of the most serious threats to marine environments. They are found in all seas and oceanic basins worldwide, even in the most remote areas. This is further proof that the transport of MPs is very efficient. In the present study, we focus our attention on MPs’ transport owing to the Stokes drift generated by sea waves. Recent studies have shown that the interaction between heavy particles and Stokes drift leads to unexpected phenomena mostly related to inertial effects. We perform a series of laboratory experiments with the aim to directly measure MPs’ trajectories under different wave conditions. The main objective is to quantify the inertial effect and, ultimately, suggest a new analytical formulation for the net settling velocity. The latter formula might be implemented in a larger scale transport model in order to account for inertial effects in a simplified approach.


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