scholarly journals Some probabilistic properties of deep water wave steepness

Oceanologia ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 60 (2) ◽  
pp. 187-192 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Deep Water Wave

scholarly journals PARAMETRIC WAVE-BREAKING ON STEEP REEFS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 16 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shih-Feng Su ◽  
Alex Sheremet ◽  
Jane McKee Smith
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Nonlinearity Parameter ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Empirical Relations ◽  
Deep Water Wave ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
Selection Of

A numerical model based on a nonlinear mild-slope equation, and modified to account for wave dissipation due to breaking is applied to investigate the transformation of the wave spectrum over a fringing reef. The three parameters (γ, B, F) of the breaking model are calibrated for the best fit between the spectral shapes observed and modeled using an inverse modeling approach. The relationship between optimal values for γ and B derived from numerical simulations and other parameters characterizing wave and slope conditions (e.g., deep-water wave steepness, wave dispersivity, nonlinearity parameter) are investigated with the goal of formulating guidelines for the selection of adequate values. The results of this study disagree significantly with previously-proposed empirical relations between γ and the deep-water wave steepness, but show good agreement with empirical relations relating γ to other parameters. The breaking intensity parameter B shows a largely linear dependency on the nonlinearity parameter.

scholarly journals RUN-UP OF RANDOM WAVES ON GENTLE SLOPES

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 40 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hajime Mase ◽  
Yuichi Iwagaki
Keyword(s):  
Energy Spectrum ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Deep Water Wave ◽  
Wave Energy Spectrum ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Incident Waves ◽  
The Relationship

This paper investigates the following characteristics of run-up of random waves on gentle slopes experimentally: (1) the run-up wave energy spectrum, (2) the ratio of the number of run-up waves to that of incident waves, (3) the relationship between the representative run-up height, the deep-water wave steepness and the beach slope, (4) the run length of run-up heights, and (5) the effect of wave grouping on representative run-up heights. Main results are summarized in the chapter of conclusions.

scholarly journals Computational Fluid Dynamics Simulation of Deep-Water Wave Instabilities Involving Wave Breaking

2021 ◽  
Vol 144 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuzhu Li ◽  
David R. Fuhrman
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Dynamics ◽  
Computational Fluid Dynamics ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Class Ii ◽  
Dynamics Simulation ◽  
Class I ◽  
Wave Instabilities ◽  
Deep Water Wave

Abstract Instabilities of deep-water wave trains subject to initially small perturbations (which then grow exponentially) can lead to extreme waves in offshore regions. The present study focuses on the two-dimensional Benjamin–Feir (or modulational) instability and the three-dimensional crescent (or horseshoe) waves, also known as Class I and Class II instabilities, respectively. Numerical studies on Class I and Class II wave instabilities to date have been mostly limited to models founded on potential flow theory; thus, they could only properly investigate the process from initial growth of the perturbations to the initial breaking point. The present study conducts numerical simulations to investigate the generation and development of wave instabilities involving the wave breaking process. A computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a turbulence closure model in terms of the Reynolds stress model is applied. Wave form evolutions, Fourier amplitudes, and the turbulence beneath the broken waves are investigated.

Laboratory Observations on the Evolution of Deep-Water Wave Packets

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Packets ◽  
Local Maximum ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Higher Harmonics ◽  
Stokes Waves ◽  
Deep Water Wave

New experimental data for the evolution of deep-water wave packets has been presented. The present experimental data shows that the local maximum steepness for extreme waves is significantly above the criterion of the limiting Stokes waves. The wavelet spectra of the wave groups around the breaking locations indicate that the energy of higher harmonics can be generated quickly before wave breaking and mainly concentrate at the part of the wave fronts. After wave breaking, however, these higher harmonics energy is dissipated immediately. Furthermore, the variations of local peak frequency have also been examined. It is found that frequency downshift increases with the increase of initial steepness and wave packet size.

scholarly journals Experimental Realization of Periodic Deep-Water Wave Envelopes with and without Dissipation

Water Waves ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 113-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Magnani ◽  
M. Onorato ◽  
D. Gunn ◽  
M. Rudman ◽  
B. Kibler ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Experimental Realization ◽  
Deep Water Wave
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