Wave‐Induced Longshore Currents in Surf Zone

1994 ◽  
Vol 120 (6) ◽  
pp. 557-575 ◽  
Author(s):  
Donghoon Yoo
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Longshore Currents ◽  
Wave Induced

scholarly journals Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

2015 ◽  
Vol 62 (1-2) ◽  
pp. 27-39 ◽  
Author(s):  
Grzegorz R. Cerkowniak ◽  
Rafał Ostrowski ◽  
Magdalena Stella
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Shear Stresses ◽  
Research Station ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Sea Bottom ◽  
Theoretical Investigations ◽  
Deep Water Wave ◽  
Offshore Wave ◽  
Wave Induced

AbstractThe paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.

scholarly journals The impact of wave energy converter arrays on wave-induced forcing in the surf zone

2018 ◽  
Vol 161 ◽  
pp. 322-336 ◽  
Author(s):  
Annika O'Dea ◽  
Merrick C. Haller ◽  
H. Tuba Özkan-Haller
Keyword(s):  
Wave Energy ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Energy Converter ◽  
Energy Converter ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
The Impact

Field Observation of the Wave-Induced Water Particle Velocity in the Surf Zone

1980 ◽  
Vol 23 (1) ◽  
pp. 81-89 ◽  
Author(s):  
Masaru Mizuguchi ◽  
Masahiko Isobe ◽  
Shintaro Hotta ◽  
Kiyoshi Horikawa
Keyword(s):  
Particle Velocity ◽  
Field Observation ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Water Particle ◽  
Wave Induced

scholarly journals VARIABILITY OF LONGSHORE CURRENTS

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 43
Author(s):  
R.T. Guza ◽  
E.B. Thornton
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Direct Relationship ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Rip Currents ◽  
Spatial Averaging ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Simultaneous Measurements ◽  
Longshore Currents ◽  
Temporal And Spatial

Simultaneous measurements were made of the offshore directional spectra of gravity waves, and longshore currents within the surf zone. The goal was to test theories which suggest a direct relationship between mean longshore currents (V) in the surf zone and offshore values of the off axis component of radiation stress (S ). Seventeen minute — xv averages of both S and V showed considerable temporal xv variation, and little or no tendency to vary together. There was also considerable longshore spatial variability of the 1ongshore"current. Attempts to measure gradients of S in the surf zone failed because of small errors in instrument orientation. The measurements suggest that considerable temporal and spatial averaging will generally be required to obtain a representative picture of longshore currents, even if no rip currents are present, due to the presence of "eddy" motions or long edge waves.

Pollutant dispersion in the nearshore region: modelling and measurements

1995 ◽  
Vol 32 (9-10) ◽  
pp. 169-178 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Rodriguez ◽  
A. Sánchez-Arcilla ◽  
J. M. Redondo ◽  
E. Bahia ◽  
J. P. Sierra
Keyword(s):  
Field Model ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Initial Conditions ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Dispersion Model ◽  
Near Field ◽  
Pollutant Dispersion ◽  
Hydrodynamic Models ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Sea Outfalls

Some results on pollutant dispersion modelling and tracer measurements for the Mediterranean Spanish coast are presented. Two hydrodynamic models have been used to simulate wind and wave induced circulation in the nearshore and surf zones respectively. A “near field” model has been used in order to simulate the initial conditions for the local “far field” dispersion model. Two study cases are presented: The first one shows the mixing of conservative tracers in a Mediterranean surf zone from an experimental and numerical models used to predict bacterial dispersion from the main sea outfalls of Barcelona City. The comparison between dye dispersion experiments and model in the surf zone is good, while the outfall predictions show the importance of accurately modelling the effects of buoyancy on the plume.

Observations of Steady Longshore Currents in the Surf Zone

1986 ◽  
Vol 16 (11) ◽  
pp. 1959-1969 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. T. Guza ◽  
E. B. Thornton ◽  
N. Christensen
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Longshore Currents
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