scholarly journals On microseisms recorded near the Ligurian coast (Italy) and their relationship with sea wave height

2013 ◽  
Vol 194 (1) ◽  
pp. 524-533 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. Ferretti ◽  
A. Zunino ◽  
D. Scafidi ◽  
S. Barani ◽  
D. Spallarossa
Keyword(s):  
2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
pp. 143
Author(s):  
Ashar Muda Lubis ◽  
Yosi Apriani Putri ◽  
Rio Saputra ◽  
Juhendi Sinaga ◽  
M Hasanudin ◽  
...  

<p class="AbstractText"><span lang="EN-AU">The Serangai area, Batik Nau District, North Bengkulu has the highest average abrasion speed of 20 m/year. The abrasion could cause the coastal area to erode the coastline till several tens of meters. The purpose of this study was to determine the height of the ocean waves and to determine the energy of the ocean waves that has the potential to accelerate the abrasion process in the Serangai area. The research was carried out on November 5-7, 2018 in the Serangai beach area at a depth of 5 m using SBE 26 Plus Seagauge Wave equipment. The results showed that the observed wave height was between 0.8-1.6 m with a significant wave height (Hs) of 1.38 m. In addition, the wave period ranges from 5-11 s with a significant wave period (Ts) of 8.2 s. The result also shows that the maximum wave height of 1.6 m occurred on November 7, 2018 with maximum wave energy of 1800 J/m<sup>2</sup>. This result can perhaps accelerate the abrasion process in the Serangai area. It can also be seen that the wave height in the Serangai region is higher than in several other areas in Indonesia. However, it is necessary to continue observing the wave height to see the seasonal variations in sea wave height in Serangai area.</span></p>


2013 ◽  
Vol 6 (2) ◽  
pp. 157-166

Geologic, oceanographic and topographic data and field measurements, of the coastal area in front of Heraklion City, Crete Island, as well as deep sea wave measurements and shallow wave prediction numerical modelling were used for the determination of the 1884 foreshore. Data from numerous drills performed in the coastal area of Heraklion City used for the stratigraphic study of the area. For the calculation of the shallow area wave height, the deep area wave height and wind measurements in the of Cretan Sea were used, as input data of the shallow wave prediction model, taking into account the archive data about the sea bottom bathymetry and the topography of Heraklion area. Then, the maximum wave run up on the coastal area in 1884, which determines the limit of the old foreshore zone was calculated, and the critical requirements of the Act 2971/2001 and the Compulsory Law 2344/1940 "the bigger however unexceptional sea wave run up" were estimated. Finally the innermost limit of the foreshore zone during 1884 was defined, as the 3.5 m level.


2011 ◽  
Vol 24 (3) ◽  
pp. 641-652 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gonéri Le Cozannet ◽  
Sophie Lecacheux ◽  
Etienne Delvallee ◽  
Nicolas Desramaut ◽  
Carlos Oliveros ◽  
...  

Abstract The potential modification of hydrodynamic factors, such as waves, is a source of concern for many coastal communities because of its potential effect on shoreline evolution. In the northern Atlantic, swell is created by storm winds that cross the Atlantic following west–east tracks. These tracks are shifted more southward or northward depending on the season and on recurring large-scale atmospheric pressure anomalies, also called teleconnection patterns. This study investigates the trends of sea-wave patterns in the Bay of Biscay and relates their interannual variability to teleconnection patterns. Sea-wave parameter time series from the 40-yr European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Re-Analysis (ERA-40) show a satisfying correlation with an in situ buoy of Météo-France during the period they overlap. Using a k-means algorithm, data from this 44-yr-long time series were clustered into a few sea-state modes, each of them corresponding to an observable sea state associated with an averaged value for wave height, period, and direction. This analysis shows that most of the increase in annual mean sea-wave height since the 1970s has occurred because the relative frequency of occurrence of persistent observable sea states is evolving over time: from 1970 to 2001, the data indicate that energetic northwest swell becomes more frequent than low-energy intermediate sea states. Moreover, anomalies of the relative frequency of occurrence of observable sea states are related to large-scale recurring pressure anomalies: principally, the Northern Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) but also (during winters) the east Atlantic (EA) pattern, as well other teleconnection patterns of the Northern Hemisphere (NOAA data).


2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (5) ◽  
pp. 761
Author(s):  
Andrea Cannata ◽  
Flavio Cannavò ◽  
Salvatore Moschella ◽  
Giuseppe Di Grazia ◽  
Gabriele Nardone ◽  
...  

Global warming is making extreme wave events more intense and frequent. Hence, the importance of monitoring the sea state for marine risk assessment and mitigation is increasing day-by-day. In this work, we exploit the ubiquitous seismic noise generated by energy transfer from the ocean to the solid earth (called microseisms) to infer the sea wave height data provided by hindcast maps. To this aim, we use a combined approach based on statistical analysis and machine learning. In particular, a random forest model shows very promising results in the spatial and temporal reconstruction of sea wave height by microseisms. The observed dependence of input importance from the distance sea grid cell-seismic station suggests how the reliable monitoring of the sea state in a wide area by microseisms needs data recorded by dense networks, comprising stations evenly distributed along the coastlines.


2017 ◽  
Vol 31 (1) ◽  
pp. 108-117
Author(s):  
Martono Martono

Ocean dynamics is affected by atmospheric conditions. Surface wind is one of atmospheric variables that has an important role in the ocean dynamics. This study was conducted to determine impacts of extreme weather on sea surface temperature in the western waters of Sumatera and the southern waters of Java in June 2016. Daily surface wind (2007-2016), sea surface temperature (1987-2016), sea wave height (1-10 June 2016) and surface current (1994-2016) were analyzed using anomaly analysis to assess the impact of surface winds on surface ocean. The result showed that in June 2016 extreme weather occurred in these waters that was characterized by sea wave height reached 2.6 m. Impacts of extreme weather in these waters cause upwelling intensity weakened that was marked by increase of sea surface temperature. The increases of sea surface temperature in the middle to north of western waters of Sumatera reached 0.9 OC, in the middle to south of western waters of Sumatera reached 1.8 OC and in the southern waters of Java reached 1.6 OC.


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