Research on differences of short-wave group range in the mid-latitude region of China based on IRI

Author(s):  
Wei-min Li ◽  
Dong-lin Su ◽  
Yan Liu
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (9) ◽  
pp. 918
Author(s):  
Lidian Guo ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong

Infragravity (IG) waves significantly affect the operational efficiency of ports. Therefore, an accurate prediction of IG waves inside a harbor is necessary. In this study, the accuracy of the wave-group-resolving model XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands) in predicting the IG waves inside a harbor was assessed by comparing its results with field measurements. Field measurements were performed at Hambantota Port in southern Sri Lanka. Three acoustic waves and current sensors were used to observe the wave characteristics inside and outside the harbor. First, the model was validated against observations outside the port. Next, the performance accuracy of XB-SB in modeling the hydrodynamics in the harbor was evaluated by comparing its results with the values measured inside the port. The results of the numerical simulations indicated that both the nearshore short and IG wave heights can be accurately reproduced by XB-SB in an open domain without many obstacles. However, the short wave heights in the harbor are severely underestimated by XB-SB. The IG waves inside the harbor are overestimated most of the time. Moreover, the natural periods of Hambantota Port are well calculated by XB-SB. In general, XB-SB is a reliable tool for predicting nearshore IG waves. However, it requires further improvement to reproduce the hydrodynamics in a well-sheltered harbor, such as Hambantota Port.


2011 ◽  
Vol 41 (10) ◽  
pp. 1842-1859 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qingping Zou

Abstract Second-order analytical solutions are constructed for various long waves generated by a gravity wave train propagating over finite variable depth h(x) using a multiphase Wentzel–Kramers–Brillouin (WKB) method. It is found that, along with the well-known long wave, locked to the envelope of the wave train and traveling at the group velocity Cg, a forced long wave and free long waves are induced by the depth variation in this region. The forced long wave depends on the depth derivatives hx and hxx and travels at Cg, whereas the free long waves depend on h, hx, and hxx and travel in the opposite directions at . They interfere with each other and generate free long waves radiating away from this region. The author found that this topography-induced forced long wave is in quadrature with the short-wave group and that a secondary long-wave orbital velocity is generated by variable water depth, which is in quadrature with its horizontal bottom counterpart. Both these processes play an important role in the energy transfer between the short-wave groups and long waves. These behaviors were not revealed by previous studies on long waves induced by a wave group over finite topography, which calculated the total amplitude of long-wave components numerically without consideration of the phase of the long waves. The analytical solutions here also indicate that the discontinuity of hx and hxx at the topography junctions has a significant effect on the scattered long waves. The controlling factors for the amplitudes of these long waves are identified and the underlying physical processes systematically investigated in this presentation.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fatimatou Coulibaly ◽  
Anne Vallette ◽  
Manuel Arias ◽  
François Galgani ◽  
Sylvain Coudray

<p>The Litter -TEP (Thematic Exploitation Platform), which was developed by ARGANS Ltd, with a grant of CMEMS, aimed at forecasting litter introduction by rivers and marine drift on the European North-Western Shelf so as to help local coastal communities i. schedule beach cleansing and ii.  assess the potential origin of materials collected. It needed a litter beaching model, in addition to a drift model, for that. ARGANS benefited from a grant of IFREMER through the European interregional project MARITTIMO-SICOMAR plus, to study litter beaching processes on the Corsican shoreline, owing to the extensive survey performed in 2016-2017 by IFREMER and the localization of hot spots, i.e. locations with more than 10 litter pieces on a distance of 2-to-30m alongshore. After a gross analysis of data by CMEMS for winds, currents and waves, 3 areas were selected among the 6 main litter accumulation areas, i.e. La Maddalena, Capo di Feno, the Ajaccio Gulf, the Gulf of Propriano, Bastia shores and the Agriate Desert, to try to understand the reason for the location of the litter hot spots, but focusing exclusively on i. transport by waves and ii.a swash on the shore or ii.b picked up by longshore currents along the beach then swashed (ii.a) —without knowing the litter sources, as if the sources were disposed uniformly offshore linearly along the coast.</p><p>To get the transport component, the incoming waves were simulated with the spectral model SWAN, at a 25 m resolution, using inputs from WAVEWATCH III; to get the beaching per se, i.e. the surf zone dynamics that would deposit litter on the shore, we used a SWASH model that was nested in the former at a spatial resolution of 1 to 10 m. SWASH was originally discarded in favor of the XBeach model, a short-wave averaged and wave-group resolving model that we use for civil engineering calculation, because a computing-efficient model and its ore approximations fit the purpose (motions at the shore break are dominated by long wave). Yet, despite the possibility to action the ‘surf-beat’ mode of XBeach, allowing resolving the short wave variations on the wave group scale and getting the wave-driven currents (longshore current, rip currents), long(infragravity) waves, and runup and rundown of long waves (swash), we switched back to SWASH, as it does not consider a depth-averaged flow and seemed to resolve better the incident-band (short wave) runup on intermediate dissipation shores.</p><p>In the three AOIs, 67 hotspots were identified during the ground survey, and 90 hotspots were forecasted. Out of the 67s, 59 were forecasted: 42 at the right location and 17 with slight error which is probably due to the lack of proper VHR bathy-topography and sedimentological maps to perform the simulations. 8 surveyed hotspots were not foreseen, and 31 forecasted hotspots were not identified on ground. As such, the probability of detection was 88% and the probability of false alarms 32%. Better rates are expected using the new LITTO3D lidar surveys of Corsican nearshores, and a priori knowledge of litter sources.</p>


2000 ◽  
Vol 126 (10) ◽  
pp. 1048-1056 ◽  
Author(s):  
Maria da Graça Neves ◽  
Iñigo J. Losada ◽  
Miguel A. Losada
Keyword(s):  

Author(s):  
Javier L. Lara ◽  
Andrea Ruju ◽  
Inigo J. Losada

This paper presents the numerical modelling of the cross shore propagation of infragravity waves induced by a transient focused short wave group over a sloping bottom. A dataset obtained through new laboratory experiments in the wave flume of the University of Cantabria is used to validate the Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes type model IH-2VOF. A new boundary condition based on the wave maker movement used in the experiments is implemented in the model. Shoaling and breaking of short waves as well as the enhancement of long waves and the energy transfer to low-frequency motion are well addressed by the model, proving the high accuracy in the reproduction of surf zone hydrodynamics. Under the steep slope regime, a long wave trough is radiated offshore from the breakpoint. Numerical simulations conducted for different bottom slopes and short wave steepness suggest that this low-frequency breakpoint generated wave is controlled by both the bed slope parameter and the Iribarren number. Moreover, the numerical model is used to investigate the influence that a large flat bottom induces on the propagation pattern of long waves.


Author(s):  
Stephanie Contardo ◽  
Ryan J. Lowe ◽  
Jeff E. Hansen ◽  
Dirk P. Rijnsdorp ◽  
François Dufois ◽  
...  

AbstractLong waves are generated and transform when short-wave groups propagate into shallow water, but the generation and transformation processes are not fully understood. In this study we develop an analytical solution to the linearized shallow-water equations at the wave-group scale, which decomposes the long waves into a forced solution (a bound long wave) and free solutions (free long waves). The solution relies on the hypothesis that free long waves are continuously generated as short-wave groups propagate over a varying depth. We show that the superposition of free long waves and a bound long wave results in a shift of the phase between the short-wave group and the total long wave, as the depth decreases prior to short-wave breaking. While it is known that short-wave breaking leads to free long generation, through breakpoint forcing and bound wave release mechanisms, we highlight the importance of an additional free long wave generation mechanism due to depth variations, in the absence of breaking. This mechanism is important because as free long waves of different origins combine, the total free long wave amplitude is dependent on their phase relationship. Our free and forced solutions are verified against a linear numerical model, and we show how our solution is consistent with prior theory that does not explicitly decouple free and forced motions. We also validate the results with data from a nonlinear phase-resolving numerical wave model and experimental measurements, demonstrating that our analytical model can explain trends observed in more complete representations of the hydrodynamics.


1966 ◽  
Vol 24 ◽  
pp. 51-52
Author(s):  
E. K. Kharadze ◽  
R. A. Bartaya

The unique 70-cm meniscus-type telescope of the Abastumani Astrophysical Observatory supplied with two objective prisms and the seeing conditions characteristic at Mount Kanobili (Abastumani) permit us to obtain stellar spectra of a high quality. No additional design to improve the “climate” immediately around the telescope itself is being applied. The dispersions and photographic magnitude limits are 160 and 660Å/mm, and 12–13, respectively. The short-wave end of spectra reaches 3500–3400Å.


Author(s):  
B. G. Shadrin ◽  
◽  
D. E. Zachateyskiy ◽  
V. A. Dvoryanchikov Dvoryanchikov ◽  
◽  
...  

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