Handbook of sustainable textile production

Author(s):  
Marion I. Tobler-Rohr
Keyword(s):  
2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Andreas Späth ◽  
Markus Meyer ◽  
Thomas Huthwelker ◽  
Camelia N. Borca ◽  
Karl Meßlinger ◽  
...  

AbstractThe excellent craftsmanship of ancient Oriental and Central Asian textile dyers is already demonstrated in the remarkable brilliance and fastness of the colours of the so-called Pazyryk carpet, the by far oldest pile carpet found to date. This specimen resembles the advanced craftsmanship of Iron Age Central Asian textile production. We have employed synchrotron-based µ-XRF imaging to detect the distribution of metal organic pigments within individual fibres of the Pazyryk carpet (about 2500 years old) and compare the results to wool fibres, which we prepared according to traditional Anatolian dyeing recipes. We observe congruent pigment distribution within specimens from the Pazyryk carpet and natural wool fibres that we have fermented prior to dyeing. Therefore, we conclude that the superior fermentation technique has been utilized about 2000 years earlier than known so far.


2021 ◽  
Vol 8 (1) ◽  
pp. 33-46
Author(s):  
Ishrat Alam

In the history of technology, the loom has come to occupy an important place. While the horizontal handloom has a comparatively simple mechanism, this is not true of the vertical drawloom, which through centuries has developed complex forms. The question of the latter’s presence in India in early times has aroused some controversy. The case is made in this article that it arrived in the thirteenth century from Iran but failed to supplant the handloom in most areas of textile production, except for carpet weaving, mainly in Kashmir.


2021 ◽  
Vol 77 (9) ◽  
pp. P-496-P-507
Author(s):  
YOSHIHIRO MATSUSHITA

2021 ◽  
Vol 67 ◽  
pp. 109-128
Author(s):  
Bela Dimova ◽  
Margarita Gleba

The aim of this report is to provide a summary of the latest developments in the textile archaeology of Greece and the broader Aegean from the Neolithic through to the Roman period, focusing in particular on recent research on textile tools. Spindle-whorls and loomweights appeared in the Aegean during the Neolithic and by the Early Bronze Age weaving on the warp-weighted loom was well established across the region. Recent methodological advances allow the use of the physical characteristics of tools to estimate the quality of the yarns and textiles produced, even in the absence of extant fabrics. The shapes of spindle-whorls evolved with the introduction of wool fibre, which by the Middle Bronze Age had become the dominant textile raw material in the region. The spread of discoid loomweights from Crete to the wider Aegean has been linked to the wider Minoanization of the area during the Middle Bronze Age, as well as the mobility of weavers. Broader issues discussed in connection with textile production include urbanization, the spread of different textile cultures and the identification of specific practices (sealing) and previously unrecognized technologies (splicing), as well as the value of textiles enhanced by a variety of decorative techniques and purple dyeing.


2014 ◽  
Vol 1049-1050 ◽  
pp. 912-915
Author(s):  
Yun Tong

Concerning the intelligent control of technique parameters in weaving preparation process known as automatic winder in textile production, the yarn tension, yarn defects, running speed and acceleration are key technique parameters which should be carefully monitored and controlled. The linear and rotating speed will definitely affect the dynamic tension of warp yarn during the winding process. The acceleration of the tension device on automatic winder and tension roller will affect the swing speed and amplitude, eventually influence the value and abirritation of dynamic tension. The capacitive transducer is used to detect yarn defects for improvement of yarn quality, in addition such sensor is qualified to monitor the acceleration of dynamic tension regulator. The principle and designation as well as application of relevant sensor has been discussed in this paper in detail.


2016 ◽  
Vol 82 ◽  
pp. 259-290 ◽  
Author(s):  
Antony G. Brown ◽  
Steven R. Davis ◽  
Jackie Hatton ◽  
Charlotte O’Brien ◽  
Fiona Reilly ◽  
...  

Burnt mounds, or fulachtaí fiadh as they are known in Ireland, are probably the most common prehistoric site type in Ireland and Britain. Typically Middle–Late Bronze Age in age (although both earlier and later examples are known), they are artefact-poor and rarely associated with settlements. The function of these sites has been much debated with the most commonly cited uses being for cooking, as steam baths or saunas, for brewing, tanning, or textile processing. A number of major infrastructural development schemes in Ireland in the years 2002–2007 revealed remarkable numbers of these mounds often associated with wood-lined troughs, many of which were extremely well-preserved. This afforded an opportunity to investigate them as landscape features using environmental techniques – specifically plant macrofossils and charcoal, pollen, beetles, and multi-element analyses. This paper summarises the results from eight sites from Ireland and compares them with burnt mound sites in Great Britain. The fulachtaí fiadh which are generally in clusters, are all groundwater-fed by springs, along floodplains and at the bases of slopes. The sites are associated with the clearance of wet woodland for fuel; most had evidence of nearby agriculture and all revealed low levels of grazing. Multi-element analysis at two sites revealed elevated heavy metal concentrations suggesting that off-site soil, ash or urine had been used in the trough. Overall the evidence suggests that the most likely function for these sites is textile production involving both cleaning and/or dyeing of wool and/or natural plant fibres and as a functionally related activity to hide cleaning and tanning. Whilst further research is clearly needed to confirm if fulachtaí fiadh are part of the ‘textile revolution’ we should also recognise their important role in the rapid deforestation of the wetter parts of primary woodland and the expansion of agriculture into marginal areas during the Irish and British Bronze Ages.


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