Modeling of on Shore Propagation of Random Water Waves

2011 ◽  
Vol 2011 ◽  
pp. 1-7 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. M. Fassieh ◽  
O. Fahmy ◽  
M. M. El-Shabrawy ◽  
M. A. Zaki

Two numerical models are investigated to model random water waves (RWWs) transformation due to mild depth variation. Modelling of steady on-shore propagation of small-amplitude RWWs is based on superposition principle of waves of different heights and directions. Each component is simulated through either the parabolic model (PM) or the elliptic model (EM). PM simulates weak refraction, diffraction, shoaling, and wave breaking. EM simulates strong refraction, diffraction, and shoaling. Both models neglect wave reflection. Comparison between PM and EM, in test cases that are experimentally measured, proved that both models give good results for unidirectional and narrow-directional RWW. However, EM is more accurate in modelling broad-directional RWWs.

2011 ◽  
Vol 139 (9) ◽  
pp. 2811-2831 ◽  
Author(s):  
James D. Doyle ◽  
Saša Gaberšek ◽  
Qingfang Jiang ◽  
Ligia Bernardet ◽  
John M. Brown ◽  
...  

Numerical simulations of flow over steep terrain using 11 different nonhydrostatic numerical models are compared and analyzed. A basic benchmark and five other test cases are simulated in a two-dimensional framework using the same initial state, which is based on conditions during Intensive Observation Period (IOP) 6 of the Terrain-Induced Rotor Experiment (T-REX), in which intense mountain-wave activity was observed. All of the models use an identical horizontal resolution of 1 km and the same vertical resolution. The six simulated test cases use various terrain heights: a 100-m bell-shaped hill, a 1000-m idealized ridge that is steeper on the lee slope, a 2500-m ridge with the same terrain shape, and a cross-Sierra terrain profile. The models are tested with both free-slip and no-slip lower boundary conditions. The results indicate a surprisingly diverse spectrum of simulated mountain-wave characteristics including lee waves, hydraulic-like jump features, and gravity wave breaking. The vertical velocity standard deviation is twice as large in the free-slip experiments relative to the no-slip simulations. Nevertheless, the no-slip simulations also exhibit considerable variations in the wave characteristics. The results imply relatively low predictability of key characteristics of topographically forced flows such as the strength of downslope winds and stratospheric wave breaking. The vertical flux of horizontal momentum, which is a domain-integrated quantity, exhibits considerable spread among the models, particularly for the experiments with the 2500-m ridge and Sierra terrain. The differences among the various model simulations, all initialized with identical initial states, suggest that model dynamical cores may be an important component of diversity for the design of mesoscale ensemble systems for topographically forced flows. The intermodel differences are significantly larger than sensitivity experiments within a single modeling system.


1968 ◽  
Vol 31 (4) ◽  
pp. 779-788 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. E. Ffowcs Williams ◽  
D. L. Hawkings

Small amplitude waves on a shallow layer of water are studied from the point of view used in aerodynamic sound theory. It is shown that many aspects of the generation and propagation of water waves are similar to those of sound waves in air. Certain differences are also discussed. It is concluded that shallow water simulation can be employed in the study of some aspects of aerodynamically generated sound.


Author(s):  
Vito Basile ◽  
Francesco Modica ◽  
Irene Fassi

In the present paper, a numerical approach to model the layer-by-layer construction of cured material during the Additive Manufacturing (AM) process is proposed. The method is developed by a recursive mechanical finite element (FE) analysis and takes into account forces and pressures acting on the cured material during the process, in order to simulate the behavior and investigate the failure condition sources, which lead to defects in the final part geometry. The study is focused on the evaluation of the process capability Stereolithography (SLA), to build parts with challenging features in meso-micro scale without supports. Two test cases, a cantilever part and a bridge shape component, have been considered in order to evaluate the potentiality of the approach. Numerical models have been tuned by experimental test. The simulations are validated considering two test cases and briefly compared to the printed samples. Results show the potential of the approach adopted but also the difficulties on simulation settings.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alfred R. Osborne

Abstract I consider nonlinear wave motion in shallow water as governed by the KP equation plus perturbations. I have previously shown that broad band, multiply periodic solutions of the KP equation are governed by quasiperiodic Fourier series [Osborne, OMAE 2020]. In the present paper I give a new procedure for extending this analysis to the KP equation plus shallow water Hamiltonian perturbations. We therefore have the remarkable result that a complex class of nonlinear shallow water wave equations has solutions governed by quasiperiodic Fourier series that are a linear superposition of sine waves. Such a formulation is important because it was previously thought that solving nonlinear wave equations by a linear superposition principle was impossible. The construction of these linear superpositions in shallow water in an engineering context is the goal of this paper. Furthermore, I address the nonlinear Fourier analysis of experimental data described by shallow water physics. The wave fields dealt with here are fully two-dimensional and essentially consist of the linear superposition of generalized cnoidal waves, which nonlinearly interact with one another. This includes the class of soliton solutions and their associated Mach stems, both of which are important for engineering applications. The newly discovered phenomenon of “fossil breathers” is also characterized in the formulation. I also discuss the exact construction of Morison equation forces on cylindrical piles in terms of quasiperiodic Fourier series.


1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 20 ◽  
Author(s):  
Leo H. Holthuijsen ◽  
Nico Booij

Waves in coastal regions can be affected by the bottom, by currents and by the local wind. The traditional approach in numerical modelling of these waves is to compute the wave propagation with so-called wave rays for mono-chromatic waves (one constant period and one deep water direction) and to supplement this with computations of bottom dissipation. This approach has two important disadvantages. Firstly, spectral computations, e.g. to determine a varying mean wave period or varying shortcrestedness, would be rather inefficient in this approach. Secondly, interpretation of the results of the refraction computations is usually cumbersome because of crossing wave rays. The model presented here has been designed to correct these shortcomings: the computations are carried out efficiently for a large number of wave components and the effects of currents, bottom friction, local wind and wave breaking are added. This requires the exploitation of the concept of the spectral action balance equation and numerical wave propagation on a grid rather than along wave rays. The model has been in operation for problems varying from locally generated waves over tidal flats to swell penetration into Norwegian fjords. A comparison with extensive measurements is described for young swell under high wind penetrating the Rhine estuary.


Author(s):  
Joaquín Moris ◽  
Patricio Catalán ◽  
Rodrigo Cienfuegos

Wave breaking is one of the main forcing mechanisms in coastal hydrodynamics, driving mean water levels and currents. Understanding its behavior is key in the goal of improving our comprehension of coastal morphodynamics variations. One way to improve our understanding is through the use of numerical models, such as phase-resolving numerical models based on the Boussinesq equations (Kirby, 2016), which are modified to include breaking by the inclusion of a breaking criteria and a dissipation mechanism. Since there is not a universal law capable of characterizing the wave breaking, the existing models must be calibrated. Traditionally, this is done by adjusting wave height profiles and other free surface statistical parameters without explicitly considering the time-space location and duration of the breaking process. Consequently, it is possible to calibrate a model that accurately represents wave elevation statistics parameters, such as wave height and wave set-up; however, it might not necessarily represent the breaking location-duration and therefore, the forcing.


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